06-25-2019, 10:33 PM
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#16
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 56
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 56
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Wow , I have a few tiny rust spots on my lift gate as well but mine are near the top and a couple on the sides. Its a 2006 and never been in a rust prone state. Never thought it would be an epidemic.....I will have to look into this....
A new lift gate is 662.00 without a paint job
Last edited by azgold; 06-25-2019 at 10:39 PM.
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06-26-2019, 11:35 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
I already did that and everything looks fine, but another member said they got fooled the same way and found the rust only after scraping off the factory sound deadener. I plan to scrape mine but the odds of ending up with holes will dictate when I take that on. Obviously it’s impossible to precisely predict but I was hoping a few people could tell me whether theirs looked better or worse and what they found underneath the sticker thing.
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I don’t blame you for holding off for now because you could open a real can o’ worms once you get rid of the deadner material. Then you’re stuck with no turning back, because at the very least, you’ll have to be prepared to sand, grind, or otherwise remove any corrosion you find, and then you’ll likely have at least small holes to repair, as often the rust is the only thing blocking actual holes, which is why I touched mine up a bit (from the outside), but didn’t try to dig at it until I have time to deal with it properly.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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06-26-2019, 01:43 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
I don’t blame you for holding off for now because you could open a real can o’ worms once you get rid of the deadner material. Then you’re stuck with no turning back, because at the very least, you’ll have to be prepared to sand, grind, or otherwise remove any corrosion you find, and then you’ll likely have at least small holes to repair, as often the rust is the only thing blocking actual holes, which is why I touched mine up a bit (from the outside), but didn’t try to dig at it until I have time to deal with it properly.
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Exactly. You said it much better than I did! ;-)
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06-26-2019, 02:34 PM
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#19
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 213
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 213
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@ Bluesky 07
Yours looked about the same as mine did 6 months ago when I first noticed the rust bubbles on the outside- mine looked like simple rock chips. Its up to you if you want to start scraping now. The benefit is that you can use a rust converter and possibly save your hatch other than a few small holes. My hatch went south quickly after I first noticed the issue. Wish I would have treated it last fall when I first noticed it versus going through another winter with a rust bomb ticking away.
I took the easy way out by using a rust converter after sanding and then a coating of JB Weld to cover the holes for now. I know its not the "right way" to do it, but I wanted to try the least invasive way to patch the holes. It'll be interesting to see how fast the rust comes through the paint again.
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'08 SR5 with Old Man Emu 884 front springs, Toytec Superflex rear springs, 285/70r17 KO2, full skids and sliders from RCI.
Last edited by Monkey Wrench; 06-26-2019 at 02:36 PM.
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06-26-2019, 08:14 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Redfield
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Redfield
Posts: 2
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They make a bondo with Kevlar in it. Ready to paint in 5 minutes.
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06-26-2019, 10:57 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vman858
They make a bondo with
Kevlar in it. Ready to paint in 5 minutes.
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Link?
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06-27-2019, 07:19 PM
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#22
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: O'Fallon, IL
Posts: 318
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: O'Fallon, IL
Posts: 318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
These are the bubbles or blisters on my hatch. Wondering whether there will be holes if I scrape the sticker thing and rust on the inside hatch surface. Opinions please, based on your experience?
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That's EXACTLY what mine looked like when I noticed it for the first time. Boy, did I open Pandora's box. lol
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SOLD 2008 V6 SR5 4X4 @ 165K: 265/70/17 Falken Wildpeak | SPC Racing UCAs | Method NV wheels | Wheeler's T1/T12 springs| Bilstein 5100
2020 Off Road 4X4: 265/70/17 Falken Wildpeak | OME 883/ Wheeler's T13 | Bilstein 5100 | Sprint Booster
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07-02-2019, 05:52 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Murrells Inlet, SC
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Murrells Inlet, SC
Posts: 2
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Too much rust to buy? 4th Gen 2008 4runner
Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.
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07-03-2019, 06:28 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbaker90
Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.
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That frame looks way better than mine did when I got it. That one is still able to be saved inmo. I would definitely plan to spend the time wire wheeling, or sandblasting it, then priming and painting to make it last though. Also, flush out the inside of the frame and coat with internal frame coating like the Eastwood stuff, or something like fluid film because trapped salt can (and will) rust its way through from the inside out.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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07-03-2019, 10:16 AM
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#25
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 213
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 213
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The frame looks OK, but the bolts look like they will be a pain to work on. My dad’s truck came from the northeast and it gives my impact wrench a good test whenever we work on it. Also look at the radiator cross member, those tend to rust out.
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'08 SR5 with Old Man Emu 884 front springs, Toytec Superflex rear springs, 285/70r17 KO2, full skids and sliders from RCI.
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07-03-2019, 11:52 AM
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#26
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 213
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 213
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The JB Weld patch turned out better than expected and the bed liner covered it up perfectly. The plan was to paint the bedliner with color matched spray paint, but I might leave it black for a while. Has anyone used Rustoleum bed liner? Does it turn chalky right away?
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'08 SR5 with Old Man Emu 884 front springs, Toytec Superflex rear springs, 285/70r17 KO2, full skids and sliders from RCI.
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07-03-2019, 02:24 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 1,141
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 1,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbaker90
Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.
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i agree with other person - that rust doesnt look bad for east coast (MA here) standards. I want to say it looks similar or just a tad worse than mine was when i got it...after looking at 4 others. ironically one of them looked like that one, same color, great shape on outside, but literally the entire underside was rusted and I walked away. the salesman made a gesture to another employee that the car was going to be tough to get rid of for them.
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07-15-2019, 10:42 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: CO
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: CO
Posts: 1
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Dirty water leaking from rear hatch
I have an '07 T4R and have had it for two years. I love it except that every time I wash it, my rear bumper is covered with dirt. I replaced the rear window seals but still have this problem. What's going on?
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07-15-2019, 11:44 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,618
Real Name: Skip
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,618
Real Name: Skip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsacky
I have an '07 T4R and have had it for two years. I love it except that every time I wash it, my rear bumper is covered with dirt. I replaced the rear window seals but still have this problem. What's going on?
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Over the years and especially when your old window weatherstripping wore out dirt got passed it and into the hatch and now when you wash the truck water will still get past the new weatherstripping and the water is now dirty and coming out the drain holes in the bottom of the hatch right on top of your bumper, remove the inside panel, then carefully peel back the plastic vapor barrier so you can restick it and vacuum out any dirt/debris from the inside of the hatch then put it back together.
Just an FYI most people think the outside weatherstripping is suppose to keep all water out, but that's not the case, there no real way to seal the window for that too happen and have the window open properly, the weatherstripping keeps debris, bugs, leaves, etc. out and sorta wipes the window when you lower it and raising it back up, there's drain holes in the bottom of all the doors and the hatch to allow the water to drain out and the vapor barrier/plastic helps keeps the moisture from entering inside the vehicle, this is all normal on all vehicles that the windows open and has been since at least the 40s & 50s and even earlier on some brands of vehicles, on the very earlier vehicles they just had holes in the bottom of the doors but nowadays they have plastic inserts that allows water to drain out but keeps bugs/spiders/wasps and other critters from being able the crawl into inside, sometimes if enough debris gets inside the doors/hatches these plastic inserts will get clogged and needs to be cleaned out so check your's when cleaning out the inside of the hatch, there will be 2 in the hatch one on each side.
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2004 Limited V8
Last edited by AuSeeker; 07-15-2019 at 11:51 PM.
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07-16-2019, 11:21 AM
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#30
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Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Virginia/DC Metro Area
Posts: 164
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Virginia/DC Metro Area
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azgold
Wow , I have a few tiny rust spots on my lift gate as well but mine are near the top and a couple on the sides. Its a 2006 and never been in a rust prone state. Never thought it would be an epidemic.....I will have to look into this....
A new lift gate is 662.00 without a paint job
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Where did you get that price? everywhere I've looked was more than that
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