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Old 06-25-2019, 10:33 PM #16
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Wow , I have a few tiny rust spots on my lift gate as well but mine are near the top and a couple on the sides. Its a 2006 and never been in a rust prone state. Never thought it would be an epidemic.....I will have to look into this....

A new lift gate is 662.00 without a paint job

Last edited by azgold; 06-25-2019 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:35 AM #17
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Originally Posted by Bluesky 07 View Post
I already did that and everything looks fine, but another member said they got fooled the same way and found the rust only after scraping off the factory sound deadener. I plan to scrape mine but the odds of ending up with holes will dictate when I take that on. Obviously it’s impossible to precisely predict but I was hoping a few people could tell me whether theirs looked better or worse and what they found underneath the sticker thing.
I don’t blame you for holding off for now because you could open a real can o’ worms once you get rid of the deadner material. Then you’re stuck with no turning back, because at the very least, you’ll have to be prepared to sand, grind, or otherwise remove any corrosion you find, and then you’ll likely have at least small holes to repair, as often the rust is the only thing blocking actual holes, which is why I touched mine up a bit (from the outside), but didn’t try to dig at it until I have time to deal with it properly.
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Old 06-26-2019, 01:43 PM #18
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Originally Posted by Terminator03 View Post
I don’t blame you for holding off for now because you could open a real can o’ worms once you get rid of the deadner material. Then you’re stuck with no turning back, because at the very least, you’ll have to be prepared to sand, grind, or otherwise remove any corrosion you find, and then you’ll likely have at least small holes to repair, as often the rust is the only thing blocking actual holes, which is why I touched mine up a bit (from the outside), but didn’t try to dig at it until I have time to deal with it properly.
Exactly. You said it much better than I did! ;-)
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:34 PM #19
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@Bluesky 07 Yours looked about the same as mine did 6 months ago when I first noticed the rust bubbles on the outside- mine looked like simple rock chips. Its up to you if you want to start scraping now. The benefit is that you can use a rust converter and possibly save your hatch other than a few small holes. My hatch went south quickly after I first noticed the issue. Wish I would have treated it last fall when I first noticed it versus going through another winter with a rust bomb ticking away.

I took the easy way out by using a rust converter after sanding and then a coating of JB Weld to cover the holes for now. I know its not the "right way" to do it, but I wanted to try the least invasive way to patch the holes. It'll be interesting to see how fast the rust comes through the paint again.
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:14 PM #20
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They make a bondo with Kevlar in it. Ready to paint in 5 minutes.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:57 PM #21
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They make a bondo with
Kevlar in it. Ready to paint in 5 minutes.

Link?
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:19 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07 View Post
These are the bubbles or blisters on my hatch. Wondering whether there will be holes if I scrape the sticker thing and rust on the inside hatch surface. Opinions please, based on your experience?



That's EXACTLY what mine looked like when I noticed it for the first time. Boy, did I open Pandora's box. lol
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Old 07-02-2019, 05:52 PM #23
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Too much rust to buy? 4th Gen 2008 4runner

Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.
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Rear hatch rusting from the inside-carrr-jpg  Rear hatch rusting from the inside-rust1-jpg  Rear hatch rusting from the inside-rust2-jpg  Rear hatch rusting from the inside-rust3-jpg 
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Old 07-03-2019, 06:28 AM #24
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Originally Posted by trbaker90 View Post
Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.
That frame looks way better than mine did when I got it. That one is still able to be saved inmo. I would definitely plan to spend the time wire wheeling, or sandblasting it, then priming and painting to make it last though. Also, flush out the inside of the frame and coat with internal frame coating like the Eastwood stuff, or something like fluid film because trapped salt can (and will) rust its way through from the inside out.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:16 AM #25
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The frame looks OK, but the bolts look like they will be a pain to work on. My dad’s truck came from the northeast and it gives my impact wrench a good test whenever we work on it. Also look at the radiator cross member, those tend to rust out.
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Old 07-03-2019, 11:52 AM #26
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The JB Weld patch turned out better than expected and the bed liner covered it up perfectly. The plan was to paint the bedliner with color matched spray paint, but I might leave it black for a while. Has anyone used Rustoleum bed liner? Does it turn chalky right away?
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Rear hatch rusting from the inside-a89819bd-d5d6-41f6-b5b7-2cbf9af2190a-jpg  Rear hatch rusting from the inside-0fec3af4-22e6-4244-b435-d6dc27c122aa-jpg  Rear hatch rusting from the inside-6b2527f9-7271-40f4-aee6-59d8b2e6a039-jpg 
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Old 07-03-2019, 02:24 PM #27
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Originally Posted by trbaker90 View Post
Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.
i agree with other person - that rust doesnt look bad for east coast (MA here) standards. I want to say it looks similar or just a tad worse than mine was when i got it...after looking at 4 others. ironically one of them looked like that one, same color, great shape on outside, but literally the entire underside was rusted and I walked away. the salesman made a gesture to another employee that the car was going to be tough to get rid of for them.
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:42 PM #28
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Dirty water leaking from rear hatch

I have an '07 T4R and have had it for two years. I love it except that every time I wash it, my rear bumper is covered with dirt. I replaced the rear window seals but still have this problem. What's going on?
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:44 PM #29
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I have an '07 T4R and have had it for two years. I love it except that every time I wash it, my rear bumper is covered with dirt. I replaced the rear window seals but still have this problem. What's going on?
Over the years and especially when your old window weatherstripping wore out dirt got passed it and into the hatch and now when you wash the truck water will still get past the new weatherstripping and the water is now dirty and coming out the drain holes in the bottom of the hatch right on top of your bumper, remove the inside panel, then carefully peel back the plastic vapor barrier so you can restick it and vacuum out any dirt/debris from the inside of the hatch then put it back together.

Just an FYI most people think the outside weatherstripping is suppose to keep all water out, but that's not the case, there no real way to seal the window for that too happen and have the window open properly, the weatherstripping keeps debris, bugs, leaves, etc. out and sorta wipes the window when you lower it and raising it back up, there's drain holes in the bottom of all the doors and the hatch to allow the water to drain out and the vapor barrier/plastic helps keeps the moisture from entering inside the vehicle, this is all normal on all vehicles that the windows open and has been since at least the 40s & 50s and even earlier on some brands of vehicles, on the very earlier vehicles they just had holes in the bottom of the doors but nowadays they have plastic inserts that allows water to drain out but keeps bugs/spiders/wasps and other critters from being able the crawl into inside, sometimes if enough debris gets inside the doors/hatches these plastic inserts will get clogged and needs to be cleaned out so check your's when cleaning out the inside of the hatch, there will be 2 in the hatch one on each side.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:21 AM #30
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Wow , I have a few tiny rust spots on my lift gate as well but mine are near the top and a couple on the sides. Its a 2006 and never been in a rust prone state. Never thought it would be an epidemic.....I will have to look into this....

A new lift gate is 662.00 without a paint job
Where did you get that price? everywhere I've looked was more than that
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