Can you share a picture of your true dual when it's all routed? I want to go the dual exhaust route but I'm having trouble figuring out routing it. I'm getting a swingarm bumper to get the extra room from the spare tire, but any pictures of your routing would be very helpful.

Can anyone tell me if the current long tube headers sold by Doug Thurly are the complete stainless including the air tubes ??? I am thinking of purchasing a set and want to make sure what set I would be purchasing. Thanks

No they are Not. That was a 1 time Run.

I recall them making some permanent manufacturing changes, there was talk of either the flanges, or air tubes, being made from SS for their normal production runs, I don't remember which component though, its in one of the threads.

This would be a question for Doug Thorley.

The ONLY special part from the group buy that this thread is about is the stainless mounting flanges.

By extension, the regular production ones are now full stainless, EXCEPT the mounting flanges, which are cold roll steel.

So yeah, the air tubes will be stainless for any units from 2020-up.

Thank you for your replies, I will reach out to them and and see what I find out and let you know what they say. Thanks again.

It was @Marfy that got the air tube problem resolved. They would have rusted through in no time, so they are stainless now from what I've read in the other thread.

Excerpt from DT's email to Marfy last year:

Starting on our next production runs going forward, next is scheduled in early to mid-July (this can change if needed based on current demand), we will begin constructing these headers with Stainless Air Injection tubing. Once that production run is complete (4-5 weeks based on outside processing for ceramic coating) we will replace the current headers you have now. Others should also know that if they have rusted air injection tubes and proof of purchase they will also be covered. Like I have said, yours has shown the first incident like this and we are confident that others should not expect to have outcome that you have. This production change will effect part numbers THY-562-SS-C, THY-563-SS-C, & THY-563Y-LS-C.

@Jason B , has there been any statement from Burtman Industries or Doug Thorley regarding the Y Pipe fitment issues with these headers?

@Inv4drZm
@Killacaviar - had to kink a brand new DT Y Pipe to fit the brand new DT Headers he bought.
@4RunnerAquasport - had a DT Y pipe that didn't fit stock manifolds, had to adjust it, then ordered DT Headers, and they don't line up to where the stock manifolds were positioned. Indicating the DT Headers and a stock manifold, do not share flange positioning.

In my case, a Stock Y Pipe doesn't line up to the headers without sectioning the Y pipe. See first part of this post.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3483360-post159.html

I called DT today because my 4Runner is in the shop today finally getting the headers, y pipe and catback installed.

They recommended having all header bolts loose before connecting the Y pipe then tightening them. I'll find out for sure if this works for me. I have the URD Y pipe that will be connected to it.

I got the DT ST in late May, had it installed last weekend, and my exhaust guy had major fitment issues on the drivers side. Passenger side too, but not as bad. He couldn't get the bolts to start.

My installer is having drivers side fitment issues as well.

Yes yes yes They have to loosen and leave lentire system loose before any tightening down. Most start on passenger cuz it's the easiest. You can’t tighten down all the way and expect specifically fitting items to just nicely come together.

All parts, header, y pipe, and stock or cat back should be loose when installing until all connections are met, then tighten down like a tire. Jumping around from bolt to bolt. Be sure to relay to installer as most throw The instructions away and just go off what they know sometimes.

Regardless if they throw the instructions away or not, the instructions mention nothing about this procedure and I don't recall it being mentioned in previous discussion about installation until people started mentioning that stuff doesn't fit.

1) With the engine still raised, install the passenger side header and gasket to the motor and start all the nuts. Leave loose at this time.

2) Work the dip stick tube between tubes #1 and #2 while header is still loose. Use supplied bolt and spacer, it may be necessary to "tweak" the dipstick tube.

3) Re-install engine mount and lower engine into the correct position on the frame. Both sides. NOTE: Access will be easier if the front wheels and tires are remove if you have the means.

4) Tighten all nuts starting with the center working your way out alternating end to end.

5) Repeat this process for the driverside with exception to the oil dip stick.

6) Install the wire harness heatshield (driverside).

7) Install the supplied o2 harness extensions and o2 sensors.

END OF INSTRUCTIONS.

@Jason B , any news about the Ti studs?

Thanks

Got my truck back from the shop yesterday, glad to have this thing back and running proper. Sounds mean, no more tick, no CELs so far with the mini cats welded in. Thanks to Jason for sourcing parts, appreciate all of your help. Worth the wait, can't wait to get out this weekend!