07-12-2019, 04:04 PM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
Posts: 127
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
Posts: 127
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Cargo Area build
Greetings folks,
Since I often look to gather inspiration for my projects from others, I though i would share my recently completed cargo area "build".
Project goals:
-full length sleeping area for one
-proper fridge storage
-more tie downs
-cost less than some of the mass produced options out there
-still let me toss big things in the back (no permanent drawers)
-easier to clean and more durable than the carpet
-minimal weight gain
-easy to remove the front section if need full rear seats
-stock tie downs must be available still, to allow a clean installation of the factory cargo carpet, there by "hiding" the rear floor.
The new "floor" was baltic birch plywood (9 ply i think) with a layer of fiberglass added on the bottom, and the rear most section attaches to all factory tie downs, plus 5 additional tie downs that were added at formed locations in the floor. Sound deadening material was added to the floor before final installation as well
The section where the larger part of the rear seat was removed is comprised of a another wood floor, with steel frame built underneath. That steel frame attaches to all the seat/seat belt mounting points, plus two additional fasteners. The center section of this is removable to allow access to the void that was created by elevating the frame to make it level with the rear floor. The circles that are cutout of this section are to locate my dometic fridge.
I used L track tie down track and finished the wood with a spray on bed liner. I also fabricated an aluminum seat back panel for the remaining rear seat which was bolted to the seat back after I installed metric threaded inserts in the seat.
This was all done in my garage and for less than $300 in material cost. So far it's working well, but only time and experience will determine how effective it really is.
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07-12-2019, 04:06 PM
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#2
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
Posts: 127
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
Posts: 127
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Another shot showing the fridge installed and the rear seat flipped up.
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07-12-2019, 05:01 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: texas
Posts: 47
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: texas
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I love this look. This is the first version I have seen that makes sense to me. Maybe because this is one that would work with how I use my 4runner. Excellent.
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07-13-2019, 11:30 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chicago
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chicago
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That is FANTASTIC! I've been thinking about doing something similar. Amy chance you'd be willing to post any of your patterns, dimensions or drawings?
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07-13-2019, 03:31 PM
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#5
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
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Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElZilcho
That is FANTASTIC! I've been thinking about doing something similar. Amy chance you'd be willing to post any of your patterns, dimensions or drawings?
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I can get you whatever measurements you might need, but as far as patterns/drawings I didn’t really use any. I had a vision in my head and just went for that.
I will say if you’re building the rear most portion, don’t trace the removable cargo carpet, I did that and the fit up in a few spots isn’t great. I think you would be better off to pull all the rear carpet out, make a cardboard template and transfer that to your base material.
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07-13-2019, 03:54 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 241
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmabs
Another shot showing the fridge installed and the rear seat flipped up.
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I'd love to see more details on the 60 seat removal and how you did the bracket/platform for the fridge.
Also which model Dometic is that?
Thanks for the inspiration!
boort
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07-13-2019, 03:55 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 198
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Calgary, AB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmabs
Another shot showing the fridge installed and the rear seat flipped up.
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This is amazing. Looks incredible too!
I would also love any measurements/dimensions/plans/guides you've got!
Nice work!
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2007 Toyota 4Runner Sport Edition V8, Elka 2.5 Suspension, Total Chaos UCA w/ Delta Uniball, Dobinsins C59-677V Rear Coils, Timbren Bumpstops, Prinsu Design Roof Rack, Baja Designs Squadron Sport Fogs, 285/70R17 BFG KO2, Blacked Out TE Rims, Spidertrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers, Satoshi Grill
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07-13-2019, 07:32 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Texas
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Hell of a job man. I can't imagine how much time/effort/money it took to do that. Tip of the hat.
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07-14-2019, 12:18 AM
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#9
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
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Thank you for the kind words everyone!
The fridge is a Dometic CFX 50.
As far as the 60 side of the platform, I made a basic angle iron frame, and then some tube stands offs to catch all of the factory seat and seat belt mounting points. Once you pull that part of the seat, it’s easy to see. I also added some high strength threaded inserts near the seatbelt mounting point in the 40 side of the seat, as this corner is somewhat unsupported and I didn’t want that.
Regarding time/materials/planning, as I mentioned before I didn’t really draw anything out ahead of time, I just had an idea and went for it.
Rough material breakdown:
Tie down track-159
Plywood-55
Two liters of bed liner-45
Assorted steel and hardware-25
This is all rough math, and I had everything other than the tie down track and plywood on hand as leftovers from other projects.
I’ve got an embarrassing amount of time in the front platform frame (probably 8 hours start to finish) but I would image the whole project could be done in a weekend if you knew what you were doing and planned things out. I took my time and split it up between other activities.
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07-14-2019, 02:20 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Chicago
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Very inspirational thanks for the write up
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07-16-2019, 11:10 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: NC Washington
Posts: 35
Real Name: Chuck
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: NC Washington
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Real Name: Chuck
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4th Gen Cargo Build
Nice job on your build out. I really like the look and open use of 60 percent seat. I am in the middle of a build utilizing the 60 percent space for a wood frame to fit a 30x72 RV mattress-with many of your same objectives. I have discovered that 75 inches of open length is really not possible unless the front seat is moved uncomfortably close to the dash. Even 72 inches requires removing the flip-up rear cushion. I wish I had your finishing skills-mine is starting to look “shop 101ish”.
Also appreciate your portable refrigerator install-very nice. Might have to add one of those. Great job. Thanks for the post.
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07-17-2019, 02:53 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 50
Real Name: Will Oliver
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Great work on the build out! This is some seriously high quality work. I am in the process of laying this exact same thing out for my truck. I am hung up getting it all plugged into CAD to run it on our router at the moment. I am so glad to see that I am not the only crazy person who wants to dump the 60 but keep the 40 seat.
Any other advise on things to avoid or stuff you didn't think about before you got into it? Im ripping the carpet out when I return from my trip and I have no idea what to expect just yet.
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07-17-2019, 03:30 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Real Name: John
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This is one of the cleanest applications I've seen in a while! I really love the base bracket that bolts into the seating locations, this makes it super clean and it looks like you're still able to retain a 3rd seat if needed!
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1998 Volvo S70 T5 - Custom Airlift Suspension, BBS Nebula Wheels, Brada Seats, Engine Bolt Ons - StanceWorks Build Thread
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07-18-2019, 09:44 PM
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#14
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Trinity County
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Thanks for the kind words everyone!
For me, keeping that 40 part was a requirement, I have an 8 year old adventure buddy.
I needed to be able to easily remove the fridge platform and install the rear seat for when I need to haul 4/5 people.My truck isn’t a daily driver, but occasionally I do take a few people with me when we go out and play.
I wish I had access to CAD and a router, that would make things much faster, and probably a bit cleaner. My contouring around the rear driver side plastic isn’t great; I traced the top most carpet, and it’s not perfect. I should have made a cardboard or thin plywood template and then transferred it to the big stuff.
I have also thought about going to 1 inch plywood to be able to make the rails sit completely flush, but that wasn’t commonly available where I live (I had to drive an hour to get the wood as is).
With 3/4 inch wood, you can’t really make these rails sit completely flush without giving up a lot of thickness of the wood, and therefore strength.
I’m trying very hard to pay attention to added weight on this truck, so that was a consideration. I think after removing the rear seat portion, I still probably lost weight even after the platform is installed.
The overall length of the platform is a little short for most, but I didn’t want to extend the fridge panel area any further as it could impede on the range of motion of the front seat, and I use the area behind the passenger front seat for storage of soft goods. I’m 5’6” so it works for me if I stash something there when sleeping, but might not work for everyone. I have two bags of gear that live in the 4runner nearly full time, and they fill that void nicely when sleeping in there. I’m not near the truck now, but I think total length is right around 60 inches.
Thinking about it now, it wouldn’t be hard to extend that platform with a different piece of wood, if it should become necessary. I’ve spent a good amount of time sleeping in the back of trucks, and I don’t think it will become a requirement for me.
Last edited by shmabs; 07-18-2019 at 09:54 PM.
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09-14-2019, 05:02 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 118
Real Name: Sam Korman
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Did you remove the carpet?
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