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Old 07-23-2019, 04:30 PM #1
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Too high of a CV angle after lift install

Yet another one of these threads but with pictures! I am looking for input on my set up and ideas on how to correct the issues I am having.

I get a front end skip when crawling slowly and a knocking sound from what i think is on the front passenger side. I replaced both OEM CVs with Cardone front CVs. The knocking got better on the passenger side but it still skips when I turn right. I think the CV angle is way too high.
  • 2004 V8 SR5
  • Bilstein 5100s all around with fronts on the lowest setting
  • OME886 fronts
  • Toytec superflex rears
  • 1/2 inch tophat spacer on both driver and passenger front


ground to fender hub to fender

Front Driver Before: 33' 19.75'
Front Driver After: 39.625' 25.875'

Front Passenger Before: 33.25' 19.25'
Front Passenger After: 40.5' 26.5'

Rear Driver Before: 35.75' 21.5'
Rear Driver After: 38.5' 24.25'

Rear Passenger Before: 35.75' 21.5'
Rear Passenger After: 38.125' 23.75'



I am going to start with removing the tophat spacer on both sides but that is just 1/2 an inch. My 155lb self standing on the bumper itself barley lowers the car at all, I am worried that the lower weight plate bumper wont do all that much either.






























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Old 07-23-2019, 04:31 PM #2
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:25 PM #3
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you sure your on the no lift setting on the 5100? seems like your on the 2nd clip setting or 3rd from the picture. no preload is all the way down.

also you are running lift springs so that might give you a higher lifted look. im no expert but you dont need both top hat spacer, i think its for driver side only, or dont run it at all.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:48 PM #4
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Yeah I agree with what Riceandpho said. I would recommend taking off the spacers on each side and checking the clip positions on the 5100s. With it that high you will have major problems with the CV’s and alignment


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Old 07-23-2019, 06:56 PM #5
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Clips are definitely on the lowest setting. I'll take the top hat spacers off shortly and come back with pics.


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Old 07-23-2019, 09:23 PM #6
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Top hat with a longer shock AND lift spring=bad. The 5100 is considered an extended travel shock, adding the top spacer is going to cause binding at full droop. If necessary for driver side lean, only use the driver side spacer. Most important thing to check when you are done: before you lower the truck back to the ground, check your wheel spin. Straight, full left, full right. You should be able to spin your wheels.
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:32 PM #7
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Talking

link for this 8 inch lift??
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:17 AM #8
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Get the diff drop kit and give the coils a few day to settle, it will come down .5-1”.


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Old 07-24-2019, 09:39 AM #9
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Wow, that’s a lot of lift for the front, and some recommend a diff drop starting with a 2” lift although it may not be necessary at that point. Looks good though!

I’m not sure the reason but I’ve read the top spacers actually raise the vehicle double the the height that they are. Unless I miss read it and they were talking about spacers that go in with the spring and not on the mount.

I’m not all that experienced and new to the forum and have been gathering info for my own 4th gen. It seems like 3” is the safe max for the front. I guess you’re supposed to go to body mount spacers after that.

I could be wrong, but that’s what I’ve typically seen when reading


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Old 07-24-2019, 09:57 AM #10
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looks aggressive for sure. the 886 are pretty beefy for no front weight v6 no?
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:59 PM #11
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Too high of a CV angle after lift install

Looked for find were I saw the “double increase” for the front spacer.

Didn’t find it, but found this thread.

How thick is a 2.5" lift spacer?


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Old 07-24-2019, 02:11 PM #12
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Actual lift is indeed about 2x the spacer thickness. (Exact value is closer to 1.8x). That's due to the suspension geometry - the amount the wheel moves is 1.8x the amount the spring and shock move. Just a matter of the length of the lever arms. The wheel is 1.8x further out from the LCA pivot vs the shock and spring.

7-8" of lift is a lot. I'm not surprised you have CV problems. Spacers always cause potential CV problems at full droop. Get rid of those first. The OME886's are 2 inches longer than OEM plus 13% stiffer , which gives you about 5" lift at the absolute lowest Bilstein setting. That's about all your suspension linkage and CV's can handle without other special attention.
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Old 07-24-2019, 02:39 PM #13
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Yep I went down this rabbit hole and started gathering shock extended lengths here. 5100 is one of the long ones that won't accept top hat spacers before binding CV's.

Higher angle inner CV joint options for 4th gens?
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:31 PM #14
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If you are still having issues, swap back in the OEM CV's. I've had issues with non-OEM binding at fool droop. OEM is the only way to go for CV's if you are going with that much lift.
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:43 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tay4R View Post
If you are still having issues, swap back in the OEM CV's. I've had issues with non-OEM binding at fool droop. OEM is the only way to go for CV's if you are going with that much lift.
True, the OEM's seem to have a bit more range than most of the aftermarket stuff. Plus, they're likely stronger as well.
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1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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