08-23-2021, 12:42 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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I recently did the critter screen mod and once I got the cowl off, the empty space under it looked a lot like an opportunity. Out came the Noico and by the time I was done, I had added deadening along with fitting the screen and painting the cowl and wiper arms.
Before I begin, a moment of silence for this poor bastard. Found him apparently stuck half in and out of the hole where a fastener was missing.
Here's the job I originally had in mind before the rabbit hole yawed open before me. LOL
The space lined with butyl.
And with the foam overlay.
Frankly, I didn't expect much from adding deadener there so I was pleasantly surprised to find it makes a noticeable difference and fits in well with my philosophy that every fraction of a decibel counts.
Here are pics of the painting. I used Rustoleum Trim & Bumper and regretted it; the finish is way too glossy for my taste. Had it been somewhere more visible, I would have redone it with DupliColor's excellent product of the same name.
Very happy with the results all around.
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09-16-2021, 12:42 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Arizona
Posts: 25
Real Name: Nick
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
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OP, awesome post! I will be referring to this soon... On that note, I was curious if you have any decibel readings of your cabin? I've attached mine below, I'm quite curious what your readout would be after all of this deadening.
Idle: 46-50 dB
Surface Streets (0-55 mph): 60-65 dB
Freeway (55-80mph): 71-72 dB
These were read with the "most accurate" decibel meter you can get for an iPhone. Unfortunately, I don't have a real decibel meter on hand at this moment, but I will borrow my editor's the next time he comes in for work and let you know if these numbers stand.
The app I used was NIOSH SLM.
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2004 4Runner V6 SR5 4x4 // 208k Miles
Rippin' Lips & Takin' Sips
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09-16-2021, 05:04 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Thanks, glad you’re finding this helpful. I’ve been meaning to do the decibel readings so give me a day or two and I’ll see what I can do. I think I have that same app too.
Where in the truck did you take the readings? In your phone mount, or did you hold it up, or what?
Last edited by Bluesky 07; 09-16-2021 at 05:08 PM.
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09-18-2021, 10:29 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,644
Real Name: Skip
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickenman9102
OP, awesome post! I will be referring to this soon... On that note, I was curious if you have any decibel readings of your cabin? I've attached mine below, I'm quite curious what your readout would be after all of this deadening.
Idle: 46-50 dB
Surface Streets (0-55 mph): 60-65 dB
Freeway (55-80mph): 71-72 dB
These were read with the "most accurate" decibel meter you can get for an iPhone. Unfortunately, I don't have a real decibel meter on hand at this moment, but I will borrow my editor's the next time he comes in for work and let you know if these numbers stand.
The app I used was NIOSH SLM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
Thanks, glad you’re finding this helpful. I’ve been meaning to do the decibel readings so give me a day or two and I’ll see what I can do. I think I have that same app too.
Where in the truck did you take the readings? In your phone mount, or did you hold it up, or what?
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Just a little input, I'm not sure the kind of phone you have will matter that much...but having both phones in the same general location within the vehicle when measuring the sounds levels would make the sound levels comparisons apple to apples, also if the AC is on or off during measurements.
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09-18-2021, 11:25 AM
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#35
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Arizona
Posts: 25
Real Name: Nick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
Just a little input, I'm not sure the kind of phone you have will matter that much...but having both phones in the same general location within the vehicle when measuring the sounds levels would make the sound levels comparisons apple to apples, also if the AC is on or off during measurements.
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SO happy to hear you're going to take some readings!
So, I held the phone in my right hand, basically above shifter (acts as a sort of shock mount, so as not to have bumps, etc, give misreading) with the bottom (mic) facing the front window. I left my AC on for these tests since it's AZ and 120 out here... AC will almost always be on so I kept it, but I'll do some readings today when I drive up to Flagstaff without AC and going 85!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
Thanks, glad you’re finding this helpful. I’ve been meaning to do the decibel readings so give me a day or two and I’ll see what I can do. I think I have that same app too.
Where in the truck did you take the readings? In your phone mount, or did you hold it up, or what?
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See above ^^
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2004 4Runner V6 SR5 4x4 // 208k Miles
Rippin' Lips & Takin' Sips
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09-20-2021, 03:52 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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We're in a rainy weather pattern so I'm waiting for the end of the week so as to have dry roads and no rain noise.
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09-21-2021, 08:00 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Rain stopped and roads were dry enough this morning so here you go. So we're on the same page, my range is the average (LAeq) up to the highest reading (Max. level) per the NIOSH instructions, so the lowest level is apparently not captured. Using a decimal b/c these are the readings right off the saved measurements. I placed your measurements in parentheses for an easier comparision.
Idle: 43.7 - 46.2 dB (46-50 dB)
Surface Streets (0-55 mph): 60.4 - 61.6 dB (60-65 dB)
Freeway (65-75mph): 68.3 - 71.2 dB (71-72 dB)
The other variable is length of the sample. How long did you keep your app going while monitoring the levels?
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Bluesky 07; 09-21-2021 at 09:28 AM.
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09-22-2021, 02:16 PM
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#38
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 357
Real Name: Blake
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
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Posts: 357
Real Name: Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
I recently did the critter screen mod and once I got the cowl off, the empty space under it looked a lot like an opportunity. Out came the Noico and by the time I was done, I had added deadening along with fitting the screen and painting the cowl and wiper arms.
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Sorry to stray away from the sound deadening topic, but can you provide any help in removing the plastic cowl and wiper blade arms?
I need to repaint my wiper blade arms, but all of my searches are just bringing up stuff about the rear wiper blade, not the fronts.
I guess I should do the critter screen while I’m in there too, what did you screw those bolts into?
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22 SR5 Prem 4X4- Magnetic Gray
07 V8 Limited 4X4 - Natural White (SOLD)--> "Moby Dick" Build Thread
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09-23-2021, 04:05 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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@ Flash Runner
- though it's in the 5th Gen section, the instructions in this thread are helpful in removing the wipers & cowl.
This is from my memory, so between that thread and this, hopefully you'll be set. LOL
1. Lay a small piece of blue tape on the windshield along where each wiper blade lies as a guide when you put them back on.
2. Use the smallest flat-head screwdriver you have to gently pry up and remove the small cap at the base of the wiper. The cap conceals the nut you'll need to remove.
3. Remove the nut then stand the wipers up as you would to get them out of the way when wiping the windshield. This releases the tension and allows them to slide off the bolt.
4. Reverse steps to reinstall.
The cowl is attached by clips. Remove them as gently as possible to help prevent damage then pull off the cowl. Some of mine were missing so I ordered new ones from a local dealer's online site, which has pricing as low as anywhere else I can find online. Amazon also offers lots of choices.
As for the critter screen, the opening you're screening off has a couple of tabs toward the front - almost as if Toyota meant to include a mesh cover themselves. I had some nuts, bolts, and washers of the right size so I used them in those holes. For the rest, I cut it slightly larger than the opening then flattened the edges down along the sides.
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09-23-2021, 04:11 PM
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#40
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 357
Real Name: Blake
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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@ bluesky
_07 thank you! I’ll report back when I get to this to give it a try.
Shout Cherokee County btw, grew up there and went to Etowah. I’ve moved away since though.
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07 V8 Limited 4X4 - Natural White (SOLD)--> "Moby Dick" Build Thread
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09-23-2021, 09:58 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
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Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Hell yeah on Cherokee County. We moved here 12 years ago and still love it.
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12-09-2021, 03:22 PM
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#42
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Arizona
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Real Name: Nick
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Join Date: Aug 2021
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Dude! I missed these readings you took. Looks like more or less we got the same readings.
So I came back to this because I just got new tires and holy wow. I had no idea it was my TIRES causing the sound and handling issues I've had since purchasing the vehicle. Turns out there were large chunks missing from them on the inside (they must've rotated before I saw) and it was causing incredible sounds.
New tires are on and the thing is quieter than my parent's RAV 4.
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2004 4Runner V6 SR5 4x4 // 208k Miles
Rippin' Lips & Takin' Sips
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08-15-2022, 05:34 PM
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#43
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
This series of posts explains my approach to sound deadening my truck, what I’ve done and plan to do, and results/observations to date.
Disclaimer: I understand that there are many opinions on how best to go about sound deadening. I did a lot of research before deciding how to proceed. Please take whatever info you find useful here and discard the rest.
Philosophy: I feel like layers between sound and occupants is key to a quiet cabin along with addressing noise close to the source, so I used leftover material to do places some people may ignore, for example the underside of the A-pillars, door sills, and kick panels, and inside the glove box. It’s not hard; I just take the panel, the foam material & maybe a small butyl piece for rattle dampening, and some scissors into the house and do it while I watch TV. Why? Because IMO, every fraction of a decibel makes a difference.
That’s also why I am doing the wheel wells. More on that in a later post.
Materials (from Amazon)
Noico 80 mil butyl deadener & Noico Green foam insulation. Very pleased with the effectiveness & value.
General Advice
- This is tedious work. Bring your patience.
- Metallic HVAC or dryer vent tape with a peel-off adhesive back is outstanding for covering seams such as around the panels covering the large door openings. I originally bought it for installing a dryer vent pipe but it’s perfect for this use as well.
- A short piece of PVC pipe makes an excellent flattening tool.
Doors
Most people agree that doing the doors gives the best bang for the buck if you don’t plan to do the entire interior. This was the first thing I did, with a full coverage layer of butyl & foam on both the inner & outer panels. I used a leftover plastic honeycomb yard sign to cut covers for the large openings & attached them with the tape I mentioned. This is just before adding the butyl layer to the inner front door panel.
Butyl layer on the inner rear door panel:
Important: stay within the “sunken” area and away from the fastener holes, otherwise the trim panel may not go back on.
Final layer on. Ended up having to trim a bit of it from the raised edge areas to get the trim to fit properly.
Door results: We have to start with the understanding that a 4Runner is never going to be luxury car quiet. With that said, there were two significant and complementary outcomes after finishing the doors. First, there was a noticeable lessening of noise, particularly in the frequency range that makes conversation in the car easier to hear and understand, so that’s a bonus. Second, as many have mentioned, the door treatment really maximizes speaker performance. Those two things taken together make doing the doors absolutely worthwhile.
My next post will cover the process and results of doing the rear wheel wells.
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Hey BlueSky, this is one of the things I have absolutely wanted to do to my '05 SR5, thanks! It looks as though that 170mil deadening material you reference is not available right now. Would this be a fine substitute? Amazon.com: Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Closed Cell Foam - PE Foam Sound Deadener : Automotive
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