08-10-2019, 11:45 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Alabama
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What's the trick to removing my CV axles
Pry bar for 30 minutes and rotated to different spots but No luck getting them out of my front diff.
I have it disconnected at the the wheel assy and it's swung out of the way.
Is there a trick to this that I'm missing? I'm probably guessing the problem stems from them being aftermarket CV axles...
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06 SR5 4x4 | 33's | OME / Bilstein | SPC UCA's | 4.56 gears with Yukon locker | LED lights inside and out. | Addicted Offroad tube bumper | homemade rear bumper and swing | new skid plate next
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08-11-2019, 08:39 AM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rstewart
Pry bar for 30 minutes and rotated to different spots but No luck getting them out of my front diff.
I have it disconnected at the the wheel assy and it's swung out of the way.
Is there a trick to this that I'm missing? I'm probably guessing the problem stems from them being aftermarket CV axles...
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Pry bar will not do it. You need a slide hammer.
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08-11-2019, 09:48 AM
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#3
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If you don't have a slide hammer you can also knock it out from the back side. There is a small flattened area that you can rest a punch (preferably brass). Hit that sucker with a 4 pound persuader a few times and it will pop right out.
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2007 4runner SE V8 4WD: OME BP-51, SPC, Scion IM 2016+
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1986 4Runner 4WD 22-RE: Full Rebuild, LCE Header, Custom Head, Supra AFM
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08-11-2019, 11:19 AM
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#4
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what replacements are you going with?
rock auto now have cardone axles with hd boots for $65 apiece
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2005 v6, galactic grey 4wd auto : pioneer avh 4400bh dvd hu, pyle reverse cam
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2004 rav4 titanuim silver 4wd auto : pionneer avhx 5500bt hu, pyle reverse cam
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08-11-2019, 12:14 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Clifton Park NY
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Check out this video.
YouTube
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08-11-2019, 02:58 PM
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#6
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Join Date: May 2014
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If you’re replacing it, grab the wheel side of it and use it like a slide hammer. A few GOOD TUGS will let it come out. There’s a c clip holding it in place that can be a pain in the ass.
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08-11-2019, 05:39 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radlynx
Pry bar will not do it. You need a slide hammer.
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That's my plan tomorrow, took a couple day off. It is HOT here in Bama
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06 SR5 4x4 | 33's | OME / Bilstein | SPC UCA's | 4.56 gears with Yukon locker | LED lights inside and out. | Addicted Offroad tube bumper | homemade rear bumper and swing | new skid plate next
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08-11-2019, 05:43 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthrealm
what replacements are you going with?
rock auto now have cardone axles with hd boots for $65 apiece
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Not replacing them, just gotta get em outta the front diff so I can remove it.
I stated in another post that I hoped to do a write up on regearing the front, not gonna happen. Found a guy that knows them well, drop the diff, gears, and install kit off to him - $250
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06 SR5 4x4 | 33's | OME / Bilstein | SPC UCA's | 4.56 gears with Yukon locker | LED lights inside and out. | Addicted Offroad tube bumper | homemade rear bumper and swing | new skid plate next
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08-11-2019, 10:07 PM
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#9
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What's the trick to removing my CV axles
I’ve replaced more CV axles than I care to remember and have always used a pry bar. As long as it’s a big one with a curved end it’ll pop it out no worries. Just have to get between the actual lip of the cv axle and the differential. I can almost guarantee you thought you had it in there but it has a lip that you can’t really see. I’ll take a picture of a spare one I have in the garage in a minute and post it.
EDIT: ok this is what I mean. You were probably prying here, which gives no leverage. These notches can be used to pound on with a flat wide chisel or big flat head screwdriver and a small sledge, but that’s harder due to no room under the truck to swing.
If you can get the pry bar behind this lip, it’ll pop right out. Just be careful to not poke up in behind that lip too far as you’ll damage the differential oil seal. Use a pry bar that has a curve to it or a large flat head screwdriver and it’s cake.
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Last edited by montijo505; 08-11-2019 at 10:51 PM.
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08-12-2019, 12:25 PM
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#10
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Real Name: Ron
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Poor man's slide hammer:
Get yourself about 4 feet of 1/8 or 3/16 inch chain, the kind you'd use to put up a swing in your backyard for your kid, plus two carabiners.
Use the first carabiner to make a tight loop with the chain around the fat part of the CV shaft. Use the second carabiner to make a small
loop in the other end of the chain.
Insert your sledge hammer handle through the small loop and take a couple of swings. The CV shaft will pop right out.
Put something soft under the CV shaft to catch it when it falls out.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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08-12-2019, 12:41 PM
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#11
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I understand the problem with the prybar. They dont always work because they tend to jam the axle against the bearing at an angle and it won't come out.
This however, works amazing every time and its cheap
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2730.../dp/B01N5SP368
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2005 Blue SR5 v8
3" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 315's, rear Elocker, on-board air system, slider air tanks, full skid plates, front Demello bumper, rear HMF plate/tube bumper, rear 9000lb hidden winch, front 10000lb winch, dual electric fans (in cab adjustable temp), rock lights, 25W LED projector lights.
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08-13-2019, 11:50 PM
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#12
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I used a pickle fork as a wedge and pounded it in and the shaft popped out. For me getting the new one in was the harder part.
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08-14-2019, 04:21 PM
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#13
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It took a few whacks with a big hammer and a big brass chisel, but it popped right out.
I certainly was nervous hitting that specific component really hard and even more nervous when it didn't move the first few hits. But I read it on the internet so it must be okay!
And eventually the shaft came out.
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08-14-2019, 11:03 PM
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#14
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
It took a few whacks with a big hammer and a big brass chisel, but it popped right out.
I certainly was nervous hitting that specific component really hard and even more nervous when it didn't move the first few hits. But I read it on the internet so it must be okay!
And eventually the shaft came out.
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Trick is a BFH every time lol
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12-11-2020, 05:11 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Apr 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
I’ve replaced more CV axles than I care to remember and have always used a pry bar. As long as it’s a big one with a curved end it’ll pop it out no worries. Just have to get between the actual lip of the cv axle and the differential. I can almost guarantee you thought you had it in there but it has a lip that you can’t really see. I’ll take a picture of a spare one I have in the garage in a minute and post it.
EDIT: ok this is what I mean. You were probably prying here, which gives no leverage. These notches can be used to pound on with a flat wide chisel or big flat head screwdriver and a small sledge, but that’s harder due to no room under the truck to swing. Attachment 341373
If you can get the pry bar behind this lip, it’ll pop right out. Just be careful to not poke up in behind that lip too far as you’ll damage the differential oil seal. Use a pry bar that has a curve to it or a large flat head screwdriver and it’s cake. Attachment 341374
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Ok so whats the trick on getting it back in? Any tips you can give on lining up the splines? I feel like once its seated in the splines it should slide in most of the way until the clip stops it.
I don't know, maybe I'm being to nice with it out of fear of wrecking something.
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