08-13-2019, 06:33 PM
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#1
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Coolant leak in oil?
Hey guys,
I recently did an oil analysis with black stone. I was running 5W-20 15k mi Mobil 1 synthetic on my 08 V6 with 130k. The oil had about 11-12k miles on it. The oil analysis came back as having developed a coolant leak, which the lab said is evident by sodium and potassium in the oil. I did another analysis about 6mo ago with a sample from the same oil as this sample but with only 5k mi on it. That first sample had 0 potassium and 10 sodium (not sure what those values indicate). This sample, which was a full oil change had 159 potassium and 39 sodium.
I also did a water pump replacement a few weeks ago. I didn’t think I had an issue with the pump but when I picked it up the shop showed me some crusty pink spots where it had started leaking. I used an OEM pump and gasket, but the shop used zerex coolant. A few days after, I noticed my coolant tank was almost empty. Figured the shop didn’t do a good job with the fill and I put more valvoline brand pink asian zerex coolant. I’ve since been on a 2k+ mi road trip and haven’t noticed any more coolant issues, still at the ‘F’ line since refilling it.
Got it, it’s a V6 so head gasket may be an issue. But it’s an 08, so hopefully not. My 04 had a head gasket leak and I feel like I was always putting coolant in the tank. I guess I’m wondering if during the water pump maintenance, oil could somehow have made its way into the oil supply?
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Last edited by simple; 08-13-2019 at 06:36 PM.
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08-13-2019, 07:16 PM
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#2
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Not sure how they could of gotten coolant in the oil changing out the water pump, but since you haven't noticed any coolant lost after you fill it when you notice it was low I would wait and do another oil test at the next oil change time and see if you're still getting coolant in the oil.
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08-13-2019, 07:44 PM
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#3
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When you installed the new water pump, did you use a torque wrench and tighten the bolts to spec? Or go by feel?
The large-head outer bolts pass through the timing cover, and seal the coolant passages against the timing cover. I can imagine improper tightening causing the inner timing cover seal to fail and leak coolant into the engine case.
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08-13-2019, 10:38 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
When you installed the new water pump, did you use a torque wrench and tighten the bolts to spec? Or go by feel?
The large-head outer bolts pass through the timing cover, and seal the coolant passages against the timing cover. I can imagine improper tightening causing the inner timing cover seal to fail and leak coolant into the engine case.
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I used an independent but reputable shop to install it. I can’t imagine they used a torque wrench. But who knows
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08-14-2019, 12:16 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Hey guys,
I recently did an oil analysis with black stone. I was running 5W-20 15k mi Mobil 1 synthetic on my 08 V6 with 130k. The oil had about 11-12k miles on it. The oil analysis came back as having developed a coolant leak, which the lab said is evident by sodium and potassium in the oil. I did another analysis about 6mo ago with a sample from the same oil as this sample but with only 5k mi on it. That first sample had 0 potassium and 10 sodium (not sure what those values indicate). This sample, which was a full oil change had 159 potassium and 39 sodium.
I also did a water pump replacement a few weeks ago. I didn’t think I had an issue with the pump but when I picked it up the shop showed me some crusty pink spots where it had started leaking. I used an OEM pump and gasket, but the shop used zerex coolant. A few days after, I noticed my coolant tank was almost empty. Figured the shop didn’t do a good job with the fill and I put more valvoline brand pink asian zerex coolant. I’ve since been on a 2k+ mi road trip and haven’t noticed any more coolant issues, still at the ‘F’ line since refilling it.
Got it, it’s a V6 so head gasket may be an issue. But it’s an 08, so hopefully not. My 04 had a head gasket leak and I feel like I was always putting coolant in the tank. I guess I’m wondering if during the water pump maintenance, oil could somehow have made its way into the oil supply?
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I'm not sure as to the cause of there being contaminants in the oil but I will say that when I replaced my radiator, t-stat, and hoses I had mine at the fill line and several days later noticed it had gone down a lot. I ended up finding out it was just an air pocket that had worked its way out causing the coolant to drop. Since then (2 months later) after filling the reservoir back up I marked it and it has not gone down. This may be what you experienced.
On a side note, is it possible when you pulled the water pump that a small amount of coolant found its way into the timing cover?
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08-14-2019, 08:23 AM
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#6
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When did you start running the synthetic?
Others have mentioned making the switch led to premature failures/leaks.
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08-14-2019, 08:59 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
I used an independent but reputable shop to install it. I can’t imagine they used a torque wrench. But who knows
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I suppose it's possible that a small amount coolant seeped into the timing cover area during the pump replacement. As AuSeeker mentioned, grab another oil specimen next change and have it analyzed.
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08-14-2019, 10:59 AM
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#8
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sorry i dont have any input on why coolant shows up in the oil analysis... but am curious why you run 5/20 weight oil when the V6 calls for 5/30? especially with 100k+ miles, the bearing clearances are bigger than when it was new so using a thinner oil may not be the best idea.
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08-14-2019, 10:01 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanRunner651
When did you start running the synthetic?
Others have mentioned making the switch led to premature failures/leaks.
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I started synthetic when I got the truck at 110k. I don’t know what was used before, and it’s impossible to know if the owner had ever used synthetic or not. I think that cross over thing is an old wives tale. To each their own, but I have no worries with using synthetic good quality oil in my engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebirdguy
sorry i dont have any input on why coolant shows up in the oil analysis... but am curious why you run 5/20 weight oil when the V6 calls for 5/30? especially with 100k+ miles, the bearing clearances are bigger than when it was new so using a thinner oil may not be the best idea.
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There was actually a TSB a long time ago which approved 5W-20 in our rigs. It was kind of confusing, because it read 06+, but the 03-05 have the same engine.
Ultimately, 5W-20 is easier to find, I track my mpg’s religiously and can’t say there’s been any change on gas mileage, but I do have multiple oil analysis pulls that say the engine is wearing fine.
4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/fsm/ToyManuals-2007-4Runner/toyfsrm/toytsb/toytspdf/tsbrules/2007/eg018t06.pdf
Thanks for the advice everyone! I’ll do a pull in a few months and see where it goes.
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08-15-2019, 09:31 AM
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#10
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yeah there are no issues at all to change to synthetic oil at any time after the engine is broken in.... or to change back & forth. synthetic oil will not cause any type of mechanical failure. it could possibly allow oil to leak if there were bad gaskets since it is thinner, but thats very rare if the engine is sealed up properly.
thanks for the info on the TSB for 5/20, was just curious why you used it vs 5/30. i think 5th gen runners call for 5/20 & it is the same engine... but maybe there were some minor internal changes with the 06+ engines, i know they changed the head gaskets, maybe they made a clearance change too. but either way sounds like its accep[table to use if you dont have any oil lights come on & the oil analysis comes back good.
Last edited by firebirdguy; 08-16-2019 at 11:05 AM.
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08-15-2019, 06:08 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
I started synthetic when I got the truck at 110k. I don’t know what was used before, and it’s impossible to know if the owner had ever used synthetic or not. I think that cross over thing is an old wives tale. To each their own, but I have no worries with using synthetic good quality oil in my engine.
There was actually a TSB a long time ago which approved 5W-20 in our rigs. It was kind of confusing, because it read 06+, but the 03-05 have the same engine.
Ultimately, 5W-20 is easier to find, I track my mpg’s religiously and can’t say there’s been any change on gas mileage, but I do have multiple oil analysis pulls that say the engine is wearing fine.
4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/fsm/ToyManuals-2007-4Runner/toyfsrm/toytsb/toytspdf/tsbrules/2007/eg018t06.pdf
Thanks for the advice everyone! I’ll do a pull in a few months and see where it goes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebirdguy
yeah there are no issues at all to change to synthetic oil at any time after the engine is broken in.... or to change back & forth. synthetic oil will not cause any type of mechanical failure. i could possibly allow oil to leak if there were bad gaskets since it is thinner, but thats very rare if the engine is sealed up properly.
thanks for teh info on the TSB for 5/20, was just curious why you used it vs 5/30. i think 5th gen runners call for 5/20 & it is the same engine... but maybe there were some minor internal changes with the 06+ engines, i know they changed the head gaskets, maybe they made a clearance change too. but either way sounds like its accep[table to use if you dont have any oil lights come on & the oil analysis comes back good.
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While that TSB is all fine and good...for newer models, the TSB also had the following note...
"NOTE:
The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model.
Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual
or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle.
For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EG050–04, “Engine Oil Specifications"
....which tells me to use the oil recommended for my year model and what it say in the owner's manual/oil filler cap.
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