Long story short, my OBD2 diagnostic plug got damaged and I bought a new housing to replace it. I unpinned the wiring from the old connector and redid everything verbatim to the new. I did make one bonehead mistake in that I did not disconnect the battery or remove the OBD fuse in my haste. As a result I did create a short removing a pin(s) as I saw a small short and as a result I also had popped the OBD fuse.
After I wrapped everything up and replaced the fuse I proceeded to run a test. I have a BlueDriver module that has worked without fail and another brand that I leave in at times to run my Torque Pro app. Both had power and would connect via the Bluetooth, but could not get communication with the truck and would eventually time out. I'm worried that I've shorted something upstream (ECM????) or possibly have a wire out of place even though I took multiple pictures before hand as well as a plug on hand from the junkyard with cut wires attached for reference.
I want to start by testing pins 6 & 14 (solid pink & purple wires, right?) which are the CAN High & CAN Low lines. I believe I should read 2.5V & 50 - 70 O value for them to be good? Can that be verified? Not sure what the standard test plan would be in this scenario.
@
BlackWorksInc
- Do you have any thoughts / input?
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SOLD2007 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4X4 - Natural White -
Perf: Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers | 4.56 Gears ARB Front / TrueTrac Rear
Off Road: Fr: Bilstein 6112 w/1/2" Toytec Spacer / Rr: MT ICON Long Travel | JBA UCAs | VTX Rogue 17x8.5 -10 | GY Duratrac 285/70R17 |
Rear Diff Breather Mod | 1" Toytec Body Lift | Custom Cut Axle Joints
ICE: Auto Pumpkin 10.1" Android |
3.5" Tweeter Mod Exterior: Quad Bi-Xenon HID Retrofit
2019 4Runner Limited 4x4 - MGM - Hers |
Ironman4x4 FCP's & UCA | Fuel Rebel 20x9+1 | GY Duratrac 275/60R20 | Victory 4x4 FLRR