10-02-2019, 12:34 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: seattle
Posts: 12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: seattle
Posts: 12
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Craigslist help with 4th gen V8
Found a 2004 V8 Sport Edition in seattle
For $12.5k. It has 126,000 miles on it.
Originally vehicle was in Wisconsin up to 75,000 miles , then moved to Washington. That’s when the current seller bought it and put the remaining miles on it over the last ten years.
2 years ago timing belt was changed and new brakes, but it has rarely been driven in that time; 4,000 miles on new timing belt and brakes.
The owner is not much of a 4x4 guy. Just drove it for work and liked it for the masculine look.
My concern is that the 4 Lo was not used enough to maintain healthy use, I’m concerned that the 4Lo case is seized due to inactivity.
What are some things I can look for to poke around at the car and inspect the transfer case condition?
I’m trying to avoid buying into a bad car condition.
The seller says he maintained it regularly but there are no records.
Help with purchase decision would be helpful
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10-02-2019, 01:03 AM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
Posts: 477
Real Name: Elliott
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
Posts: 477
Real Name: Elliott
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Make him engage 4 lo on a dirt road and prove it works before you buy it. Not really sure you can visibly tell if anything is wrong without tearing it open, though I'll defer to wiser minds on this topic...
I bought my rig with 134k on it from Nevada, spent it's American Life there. Driver was a total soccer mom as evidenced by the remnants of poor detailing under the seats and such. Guessing it NEVER saw dirt judging by the undercarriage at the time of purchase. So, I tested out the 4wd prior to purchase, and to my delight it worked. Never been a problem. If that's any consolation, they are pretty reliable trucks...btw that price in California is SUPER hot!
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
Last edited by 81runner; 10-02-2019 at 01:08 AM.
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10-02-2019, 08:10 AM
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#3
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Minnesota
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$12.5k seems way high to me. I would expect closer to $9 IMO, but could be wrong.
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10-02-2019, 08:17 AM
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#4
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You don’t need to be on a dirt road to engage 4LO. You can’t putz around the neighborhood streets no problem.
Just make sure the center diff (button with two axles and an X in between) stays off.
My two cents: $12.5k seems insane for an 04 v8. I payed roughly that much for my 08 v6 3 years ago (still overpaid).
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Last edited by Berty_K; 10-02-2019 at 10:13 AM.
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10-02-2019, 10:38 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Kansas
Age: 28
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Rust? It was in Wisconsin.
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10-02-2019, 03:03 PM
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#6
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Seems High to me.
This year I have purchased 2 x '07 V8 Limiteds
180K miles $10,500 base limited
94K miles $12,600 loaded limited
Add tax + document costs to both, roughly $2K.
12.5 for an '04 sport seems a bit high, I would expect it to be closer to 8K plus tax if it's clean.
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10-02-2019, 03:15 PM
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#7
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Zim mentioned it, RUST as it was in Wisconsin. Take a real good look at the crossmembers as well as the rear axle and link mounts. If it’s been coated or something obvious for rust take a screwdriver and poke around. Sometimes rust seems like it’s on the surface until your screwdriver finds it’s mushy or brittle. Only other concerns are the transfer case which is easy to check by engaging and timing belt/water pump which sounds like it has been replaced.
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10-02-2019, 03:27 PM
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#8
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Join Date: May 2010
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dont commit until you are sure the TC actuator works...
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10-02-2019, 06:30 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Ideally, a shop that knows about Toyotas, particularly that vintage of 4.7L V8's.
You're gonna wanna know about the header cracking problem, the air pump problem.
Was the timing belt done on schedule? Was the "sealed" transmission fluid changed... ever?
Also, not only whether Low Range engages or not but also that the center differential lock engages. There's two different buttons and indicators for them, if they only flash they're not engaging.
The center diff lock should (obviously) work in both Hi and Lo. They're separate and distinct functions. I see plenty of times there's confusion about that:
High Range<->Low Range
and
4WD (Part-Time) <-> 4WD (Full-Time)
are separate systems
Check the CV boots. Make sure the brakes feel solid and don't make any funky noises. Brake SUPER hard to walking speed and then re-accelerate immediately to see if it has the ol' "wups, forgot to put 'er in 1st" problem.
If it clunks when you brake or accelerate, it may have an extension tube in need of grease.
If it has XREAS, and RAS, do they work? Good shape? Is the XREAS leaking? Does the RAS look like it's riding high?
That's all I can think of right now.
The cracked manifold problem may be a deal breaker (but most V8s have, had it, or will have it). That's a $2000 fix... if it's "livable" now, a few winters or one giant puddle is all it needs to devolve into terrible: a good heat-shock and the cracks can get huge very quickly... Then it'll sound like a Ford Triton V8.
Last edited by Keros; 10-02-2019 at 06:33 PM.
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10-02-2019, 07:11 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
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Real Name: Skip
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
Ideally, a shop that knows about Toyotas, particularly that vintage of 4.7L V8's.
You're gonna wanna know about the header cracking problem, the air pump problem.
Was the timing belt done on schedule? Was the "sealed" transmission fluid changed... ever?
Also, not only whether Low Range engages or not but also that the center differential lock engages. There's two different buttons and indicators for them, if they only flash they're not engaging.
The center diff lock should (obviously) work in both Hi and Lo. They're separate and distinct functions. I see plenty of times there's confusion about that:
High Range<->Low Range
and
4WD (Part-Time) <-> 4WD (Full-Time)
are separate systems
Check the CV boots. Make sure the brakes feel solid and don't make any funky noises. Brake SUPER hard to walking speed and then re-accelerate immediately to see if it has the ol' "wups, forgot to put 'er in 1st" problem.
If it clunks when you brake or accelerate, it may have an extension tube in need of grease.
If it has XREAS, and RAS, do they work? Good shape? Is the XREAS leaking? Does the RAS look like it's riding high?
That's all I can think of right now.
The cracked manifold problem may be a deal breaker (but most V8s have, had it, or will have it). That's a $2000 fix... if it's "livable" now, a few winters or one giant puddle is all it needs to devolve into terrible: a good heat-shock and the cracks can get huge very quickly... Then it'll sound like a Ford Triton V8.
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In the case of the OP hopeful buy the air pump problem is mute, no AIP on the 2004 V8.
The rest is all relevant.
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10-02-2019, 07:55 PM
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#11
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Age: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
In the case of the OP hopeful buy the air pump problem is mute, no AIP on the 2004 V8.
The rest is all relevant.
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haha, nice, and even better.
Thanks for the correction
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10-03-2019, 12:44 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 152
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Location: Seattle, WA
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The prices in PNW esp. Seattle Metro are high due to demand, I ended-up buying a 04 SE V8 with 260K but with a host of things that needed fixing, but I paid waaaaaay less for it.
I found a DIY garage in the area or perhaps I will rent a temporary place to do the suspension (xreas) swap and the TB job over the coming weeks as I do not have a place to work on my truck.
I had a low budget at the moment as my wife is finally starting to drive, so probably will end up with two cars soon (she likes Rav4).`
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