thanks for that. I do know that adding a spacer actually extends the travel more since its pushing the shock down lower vs having a spring that is 1/4 inch taller keeps the same shock travel.

I checked again for binding and for some reason it is not binding anymore. It seems like the alignment might of messed with the angle of the cv to wheel and fixed it.
Again, it was binding very little so any minor change could of fixed it.

i did notice though that at full droop and turning wheel all the way to the right the outer boot touches the lower shock mount. Nothing to terrifying hopefully.
Passenger is fine.

So for now the diff drop is off (might install later) and the spacer is still on.

Sorry I wasn't trying to insult you, I was trying to explain the scenario to andreylights.

Lol I wasnt insulted. Just saying thanks, and giving some more explanation.

Tour other option would be to do a proper suspension lift, vs just a shock lift..... thus retaining the proper suspension travel and eliminating any bind (proper suspension lift will raise chassis while leaving suspension and diff at current height) example would be this rough country lift.

4-5in Suspension Lift Kit for 89-96 Toyota 4wd Standard Cab Pickup [734.20] | Rough Country (R)

Your talking about a bracket lift which no one on these forums really do as it's not really as functional offroad as opposed to a proper suspension lift. Your just lifting the hell out of the truck to clear big tires while keeping components nearly the same distance from the ground.

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Unless you are talking about a steering knuckle drop there is no diffrent to a bracket drop on a IFS or a suspension lift on a solid axle. The differential will still be at the same height from the ground. So that's a mute point. This conversation was about a cv axle bind on a IFS due to a larger shock being installed...... to correct bind you either go back to the shock designed for the geometry of stock IFS. Or you drop the chassis to IFS height to correct geometry and not have the suspension sitting at close to full extension. Long story short if you raise height of vehicle with a shock or spacer, you must raise the chassis the same height to maintain proper suspension travel, suspension geometry, cv geometry and the correct steering .

Hi. Just a follow-up. I ended up removing my front spacer and added a Daystar 1.5" in the rear left. Front has dropped a bit, but not much. Has more rake which I prefer. Also ditched the diff drop as my CV angles are much better now.

Now time for a re-alignment

Thanks for the help.

Glad that worked out for you. Chasing CV binding is no fun.

Hi. since installing the rear daystar spacer I have noticed the rear end likes to jump a lot over bumps. Like it rebounds much quicker and harsher. especially when going over speedbumps and dips. Before it was a lot more plush and I was able to drive through those with no issues. What could be the issue?

I'm going to lean towards worn rear shocks. I had the same issue with literally the exact same setup, swapped shocks and voila, no more trampoline effect.

Shocks are fairly new. Less than a year/10k miles. I was doing some research and it seems like my rear setup is too high so the shocks are running out of travel at ride height. My best option right now is to remove the spacer and just run it like it is and hopefully that fixes it.

Likely this. Can pull the spacer or source slightly longer shocks.

Also, re: CV bind. I've seen several people clearance the CVs slightly to prevent bind. Basically pull the boots and grinding/smoothing out the edge of the housing to allow slightly greater angles

Thanks, Ill probably just pull the spacer out for now until i decide on a new suspension setup.

and for the CV bind, the problem was fixed after i removed the front spacer. My boot still rub a little but not enough to go through all the way. There is just a small groove in the boot.