Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
Just an FYI lots of people use the "line" wrenches they have and don't think about what of type flare nuts are they trying to undo, i.e. if they are standard or metric and just use the wrenches they have and if you use a standard size on a metric nut or a metric on a standard size they can strip the nut, not sure if this is the issue some are having or not.
The proper line wrench on a undamaged nut should fit snugly because they are in fact a type of opened end wrench and can spread and can still slip on the nut although not to the degree a full opened end wrench can.
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I used a 10mm flare nut wrench as per the write ups I’ve seen on here. I think the issue is the sides of the wrench that hug the nut were flimsy and spread and stripped the nut when pressure was applied.
I borrowed a pair of Vice grips and got the rest of the truck done no problem. Broke the nuts loose with the grips and then used a regular 10mm wrench to get them off the rest of the way. Same thing for installing the new lines.
By far the fronts gave me the most trouble due to not having the right tools. The rear center lines weren’t as bad as people make them out to be, just less room to work. I’d suggest undoing the pan hard and moving it out of the way to have more room to access the lines.
Bleeding was a piece of cake with a helper. This is the part I was most worried about, and turned out to be the easiest.
My brakes have never felt better! Much firmer pedal and much more responsive. I guess all 6 lines swapped to SS and fresh fluid made a difference.
I used the goodridge +2 kit and have no complaints. I read there was some issues with fitment but the only one I ran into was the banjo bolts not fitting in the original notch on the caliper. They have to be rotated away from the caliper and seem more exposed but I don’t see them getting hung up on anything.
Overall not too bad of a job.
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