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Old 10-12-2019, 03:15 PM #16
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Originally Posted by firebirdguy View Post
sounds like a nice setup. i considered the bilsteins but am on a pretty tight budget & dont do or care about serious off roading, so the kyb's were the next best option & ride great & provide some front lift as well. if i want a little more front lift i will check out the wulf 1/2" spacers.

the eastwood rust encapsulator stuff is basically the same as POR15 but a little cheaper price. if you use it be sure to only apply to rusted or properly treated bare metal... its not designed to be applied over existing paint or the factory coating, it will work like that as a paint but is awfully expensive to use as just a paint. i suggest applying over rusted/bare metal, then use a good quality paint if you want to recoat existing paint or factory coatings.

& if your factory bolts are just surface rusty like mine were, you can just wire wheel them clean & use some antiseize for protection, if they arent pitted they are stronger than 8.8... but im sure 8.8 would be fine if you dont abuse it. grade 5 is middle grade for bolts, grade 8 are the hardest ones probably closer to the 10.9 that they should be.

& just a nit pick- but the fronts are not struts, they are coil over shocks. ;)
That's what makes Eastwood The Rock so much it doesn't matter what you paint over I painted it right over painted frame and obviously the surface rust at the welds and it adhered just fine the encapsulator is the one you want the converter is the one that has to go over just rust I spent a long time researching these shits before I bought one and that's the one I decided on trust me it rocks absolutely love the stuff but it does have to be warm I tried to get the spots behind my struts last night it's about 30 already outside and the stuff didn't dry correctly....

I only paid about $27 for three of the spacers ( when I opened the package they were so tightly wrapped I didn't realize there was two in there so I got a hold of the company and they sent me another one free) pretty reasonably priced and they get the job done they're coated and like I said before I can't justify paying $75 or more for just small pieces of flat half inch thick metal.... on Amazon I paid $344 for all four of the Belsteins.... the front coils I got on RockAuto for $60 and the freedoms were a little more pricey at $107 for the rear.... I haven't put them on yet I'm in the process of it as we speak but they definitely look good and considering how thick the coating is I don't think they'll rust like the Moog rears but if they do I'll definitely post on here about it....

Yeah my bolts in the front weren't great when I went to take them off the nut was fine but the actual bolt head was stripping pretty bad I used 8.8 on my wife's Lexus for the strut bolts and haven't had any issues but obviously that's a car I'm not going to be going off road...

Oh yeah you're right I mean shocks LOL....
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:06 AM #17
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So I got another random question does anybody else take way more back and dirt roads when they're in their Runner? I do all the time even though I know I'm wasting gas and time it just feels more proper in the runner to explore different back routes home rather than always take the highway.... 😁😁

When I originally posted this thread it was in the process of doing my suspension job after I finished I installed bigger tires 275 70 18 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (they are AWESOME!!) it looks so Beastie now just mean after I get my grill guard it's going to really Set It Off!! SOOO SEXY!!

To my serious misfortune the 275s cut down my fuel mileage about 5 MPG from almost 25 to 20.5-21.8 and rubbed bad on the fender liners which was about a 10-minute fix I just unscrewed them pushed them back drilled new holes and bolted them with washers.... that wasn't an issue but an issue I am having if I turn too sharp like full lock the tires hit on the upper control arms it's worse in reverse but still completely driveable I just have to kind of be careful. I had hoped that the 275s would fit a little less snug considering I read all kinds of guys putting 285 but I suppose that was with different uppers...

Anyway my question is can I take a BFH and a heavy-duty punch and Bend the spot where it's rubbing in a little bit without causing structural damage or safety concerns? It's only rubbing in a really small spot and it wouldn't have to be bent very far but I haven't messed with it because I didn't want to cause any issues plus I'm sure it's pretty hardened steel.... in the future I'll probably just get new uppers but for the time being it feels like way too much winter outside to want to mess with it.

any thoughts?
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:28 AM #18
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2008 SR5 4x2 V6

I want to change out the spark plugs which are NGK iradium and are at 89k.

I decided on going with Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper spark plugs but noticed the pre-gap is .044.
The manufacturer recommendation for 2008 SR5 4x2 V6 is .043.
Should these .044 pre-gap plugs be adjusted to .043?

Thanks
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:51 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali2008 View Post
2008 SR5 4x2 V6

I want to change out the spark plugs which are NGK iradium and are at 89k.

I decided on going with Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper spark plugs but noticed the pre-gap is .044.
The manufacturer recommendation for 2008 SR5 4x2 V6 is .043.
Should these .044 pre-gap plugs be adjusted to .043?

Thanks
You can regap them if you want too, but that tiny bit of difference won't make much if any difference if at all and won't do any damage, it's only 1/1000th of an inch too big.
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Last edited by AuSeeker; 11-20-2019 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:19 PM #20
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What truly is the optimum gap if it ranges starting at .039 to .043?

Low mid or top range? And why?
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:26 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
You can regap them if you want too, but that tiny bit of difference won't make much if any difference if at all and won't do any damage, it's only 1/1000th of an inch too big.
I just checked them and the pre gap is .039 so I'm going to keep them at that.

Denso specifically states not to use antisieze on the plugs. I would presume Denso wouldn't state wrong info about oem plugs but others in the forum say to use it.

Antisieze or not on OEM Denso K20HR-U11?
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Old 11-22-2019, 01:26 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali2008 View Post
2008 SR5 4x2 V6

I want to change out the spark plugs which are NGK iradium and are at 89k.

I decided on going with Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper spark plugs but noticed the pre-gap is .044.
The manufacturer recommendation for 2008 SR5 4x2 V6 is .043.
Should these .044 pre-gap plugs be adjusted to .043?

Thanks
One thing I'm kind of curious about is why would you go from iridium or one of the higher quality plugs back down to Copper? The only way I can figure is the price....

I wouldn't sweat the Gap too much I've owned like 50 vehicles in my life and worked on everyone I know not once in my life have I ever gapped a spark plug from what it comes at. and I've never once had a problem or decrease in fuel mileage I also always use anti seize with denso's or anything really that I take out that's also never caused me any issues....
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Old 11-22-2019, 03:38 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUltimateBohab View Post
One thing I'm kind of curious about is why would you go from iridium or one of the higher quality plugs back down to Copper? The only way I can figure is the price....

I wouldn't sweat the Gap too much I've owned like 50 vehicles in my life and worked on everyone I know not once in my life have I ever gapped a spark plug from what it comes at. and I've never once had a problem or decrease in fuel mileage I also always use anti seize with denso's or anything really that I take out that's also never caused me any issues....

The NGKs are at 89k. I recently just purchased this 4runner and wanted to put in original oem plugs to see if throttle response is better. Also during hard acceleration I get occasional sulfer smell coming in from back window. Just passed smog so I don't think it's the cat.

I won't be putting many miles on it per year so it will be many years before spark plug change is needed.

I'm also still undecided on if I will use antisieze because it messes with torque adjustment and Denso says not to use it. If I did use antisieze I would tighten by hand as I am a little worried about the aluminum heads.

If by chance I don't like the copper denso, Ill replace them with ngk iradium plugs. Not a money thing.

It's just everyone in the forums has different opinions and I'm cautious about that.
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:38 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUltimateBohab View Post
So I got another random question does anybody else take way more back and dirt roads when they're in their Runner? I do all the time even though I know I'm wasting gas and time it just feels more proper in the runner to explore different back routes home rather than always take the highway.... 😁😁

When I originally posted this thread it was in the process of doing my suspension job after I finished I installed bigger tires 275 70 18 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (they are AWESOME!!) it looks so Beastie now just mean after I get my grill guard it's going to really Set It Off!! SOOO SEXY!!

To my serious misfortune the 275s cut down my fuel mileage about 5 MPG from almost 25 to 20.5-21.8 and rubbed bad on the fender liners which was about a 10-minute fix I just unscrewed them pushed them back drilled new holes and bolted them with washers.... that wasn't an issue but an issue I am having if I turn too sharp like full lock the tires hit on the upper control arms it's worse in reverse but still completely driveable I just have to kind of be careful. I had hoped that the 275s would fit a little less snug considering I read all kinds of guys putting 285 but I suppose that was with different uppers...

Anyway my question is can I take a BFH and a heavy-duty punch and Bend the spot where it's rubbing in a little bit without causing structural damage or safety concerns? It's only rubbing in a really small spot and it wouldn't have to be bent very far but I haven't messed with it because I didn't want to cause any issues plus I'm sure it's pretty hardened steel.... in the future I'll probably just get new uppers but for the time being it feels like way too much winter outside to want to mess with it.

any thoughts?

Don't think I would want to hammer too much on my UCA, but taking a grinding wheel or even buzzing a small chunk out of it, if it's just on the outside edge of UCA might be OK. Seeing a picture of rub area would help.
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Old 11-27-2019, 02:56 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali2008 View Post
The NGKs are at 89k. I recently just purchased this 4runner and wanted to put in original oem plugs to see if throttle response is better. Also during hard acceleration I get occasional sulfer smell coming in from back window. Just passed smog so I don't think it's the cat.

I won't be putting many miles on it per year so it will be many years before spark plug change is needed.

I'm also still undecided on if I will use antisieze because it messes with torque adjustment and Denso says not to use it. If I did use antisieze I would tighten by hand as I am a little worried about the aluminum heads.

If by chance I don't like the copper denso, Ill replace them with ngk iradium plugs. Not a money thing.

It's just everyone in the forums has different opinions and I'm cautious about that.
I put these plugs in my Runner and they absolutely Rock the starter doesn't even barely turn before it's running

2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The very bottom ones the NGK ruthenium or whatever also run premium will help with your throttle response problem when I first bought it I had a very small Miss at highway speeds I put in a thing of Chevron Techron with a premium tank and it stopped the Miss dead I also changed out my spark plugs with the ones I posted and it made a lot of difference the dealership I bought it from had put two different kinds of plugs in both copper and those bastards were so worn out at 116000 miles that I don't know how it ran at all like jokishly terrible I figured they had to have been used when they put them in.....

But yeah if you haven't already bought your plugs and put them in try those bottom ones I think it's worth the extra few dollars
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:56 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUltimateBohab View Post
I put these plugs in my Runner and they absolutely Rock the starter doesn't even barely turn before it's running

2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The very bottom ones the NGK ruthenium or whatever also run premium will help with your throttle response problem when I first bought it I had a very small Miss at highway speeds I put in a thing of Chevron Techron with a premium tank and it stopped the Miss dead I also changed out my spark plugs with the ones I posted and it made a lot of difference the dealership I bought it from had put two different kinds of plugs in both copper and those bastards were so worn out at 116000 miles that I don't know how it ran at all like jokishly terrible I figured they had to have been used when they put them in.....

But yeah if you haven't already bought your plugs and put them in try those bottom ones I think it's worth the extra few dollars
I already got the oem copper denso plugs.
Once finger tight I will 1/4 turn them and be done with it. Just need to weed out the forum talk on the correct antisieze to use. Thanks for chatting and giving your input!
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Old 12-08-2019, 10:27 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUltimateBohab View Post
I put these plugs in my Runner and they absolutely Rock the starter doesn't even barely turn before it's running

2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The very bottom ones the NGK ruthenium or whatever also run premium will help with your throttle response problem when I first bought it I had a very small Miss at highway speeds I put in a thing of Chevron Techron with a premium tank and it stopped the Miss dead I also changed out my spark plugs with the ones I posted and it made a lot of difference the dealership I bought it from had put two different kinds of plugs in both copper and those bastards were so worn out at 116000 miles that I don't know how it ran at all like jokishly terrible I figured they had to have been used when they put them in.....

But yeah if you haven't already bought your plugs and put them in try those bottom ones I think it's worth the extra few dollars
Just changed my plugs to Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper. It runs way better. Throttle response is better, feels like a dream.
I did notice some oil on one plug and a bit in the well. I presume it needs gasket change. I would love to do it myself, but without a garage and a lot of research I think I'm stuck letting my mechanic fix it.
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Old 12-09-2019, 08:11 AM #28
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Originally Posted by cali2008 View Post


Just changed my plugs to Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper. It runs way better. Throttle response is better, feels like a dream.
I did notice some oil on one plug and a bit in the well. I presume it needs gasket change. I would love to do it myself, but without a garage and a lot of research I think I'm stuck letting my mechanic fix it.
Yes you need the spark plugs tube gasket replaced which will require the valve cover to be removed so you might as well do both valve covers while you at it, since the other cover gaskets would be in the same condition.
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Old 12-09-2019, 12:18 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali2008 View Post


Just changed my plugs to Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper. It runs way better. Throttle response is better, feels like a dream.
I did notice some oil on one plug and a bit in the well. I presume it needs gasket change. I would love to do it myself, but without a garage and a lot of research I think I'm stuck letting my mechanic fix it.
just wanted to reply to how new plugs (of any type) will usually make a noticeable difference... its the same for almost any new part that has anything to do with the way an engine runs or the car drives, you are replacing a old worn out part, so the new part makes a big difference bringing the engine back to how it should run. so new plugs replacing worn out ones will make you think they are better than what they replaced when in reality they are just getting back to stock specs. same for the guy that used the high $$ kryptonite plugs above, he would have likely noticed 99% of the improvements from OEM copper plugs too because what was replaced was so worn out.

same goes for tires for example, everyone raves about how good their brand of tire is, but the vast majority of people changing to new tires had very worn out tires that road like crap, & many of them are crappy oem tires to begin with or a cheap replacement a previous owner used... so any decent new tire will seem like its the best tire in the world!

just keep it in perspective, when you replace an old/bad/worn out part, even a oem new part will make a huge improvement. the v6 engine will see very little benefit using high dollar plugs over the oem plugs, aside from maybe life span & even then oem coppers can go to 75k+ & look & function fine. if toyota felt the v6 needed special plugs they would have used them like they did in the v8 with irridiums.

Last edited by firebirdguy; 12-09-2019 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 12-09-2019, 02:57 PM #30
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Yes you need the spark plugs tube gasket replaced which will require the valve cover to be removed so you might as well do both valve covers while you at it, since the other cover gaskets would be in the same condition.
Any threads for someone who has never done open heart surgery before? I don't have a garage to work in either, just outside under a carport.
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