Looks pretty awesome. Nice job on the painting! I should use that for my trailer's hitch. It's getting pretty rusty and could use a clean up. Do you think it will hold the rust at bay for a good while?

I used it about 8 years ago on my 98 4runner frame. Still looks beautiful down there and its solid too. I tap test it every year since I moved to MI.

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Also on the way are some weather techs and a remote start. Slyfox has shipped out the bypass and I am going to start a key project based on the switchblade style key.

Going to be a busy time here but clearing way for the bumpers to be worked on when I get ready to order them.

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All this talk with no pics. I included a picture of the setup on my 3rd gen for reference.

Starting to work out the retrofit details. Thinking of pulling off a quad projector setup. I drive mostly at night and I like to spot bambi and freeze them off the road rather than on it.

Thinking of going with the nwti open top bumper. I probably won't mount a winch immediately but I like to keep my options open. Rear bumper would be nwti as well. Just unsure of how to do the hitch since it's not included with the original bumper kit. I do tow stuff so this is rather important. I guess I could see how much lower the hitch is from the bumper when I get it done and go from there.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc3886352c.jpg

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Look into the Morimoto mini HB LEDs for your hi beam projectors.

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Interesting idea. I'll check it out. I was going to do a twin stage III d2s 5.0. Not totally shot in the head about led lighting yet but that could definitely work and save a ton of cash. Waiting on the black friday deals right now for just about everything else I'm going to try and get done before spring.

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Well it's not a huge update but the weather techs are in and I'm fairly pleased with the fit. 2nd row didn't impress but I was able to shovel it in there. The front definitely fits well though and that's the most important one.

Parts will be pouring in and I'm excited about that. Lots to do and get done.

Incoming:
Slyfox fix
HVAC polarity reversal
UltraGauge
Suspension (sadly hasn't shipped yet)
12 Volt Remote Start

Yet to pull the trigger on:
Headlights/Retrofit
Bumpers (wishing there was a high clearance bumper with a hitch)
Stereo (maybe delayed....depends)
New driver's side seat cover
Timbren rear bumps
Bigger mudflaps
Rubberized undercoating
Internal Frame Coating
Dash cam
Switch panel/aux wiring setup
Tires 255/70/18 (32.1)

Researching:
Bumpers
Retrofit
Aux Wiring

Shout out to @J-Roc who pioneered the 2 in 1 fob. I think they improved their quality because this thing feels like the real deal from VW or audi. Borrowed a few along the way during the service and the quality felt the very same. Programming went without a hitch and I'll post up the instructions from the main thread just to help anyone who follows this thread. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...33976809b0.jpg

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Here is the exact item I bought. It ships from Hong Kong so give it a few weeks. No fancy packaging but it is protected.

ALin1 SWITCHBLADE KEY REMOTE FOR TOYOTA HYQ12BBX CHIP DOT RFID KEYLESS ENTRY FOB | eBay

Before you go try to get the key cut remove the pin and pull the blade. The pin is located right by the 90. Look closely at the key and you will see that it is actually two pieces of metal. I used a very small punch to get it out but a picture nail will work as well. Pop the pin out and you will be able to remove the key blank. Just take the blank it goes in all key machines.


There are two processes you have to do with the flip style key. The first is for the key itself and the second is for the fob.

Key programming. YOU MUST HAVE A MASTER KEY. If your key opens the glove box and trunk.....it is a master.

1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)

2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,

Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,

Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)

3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)

Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)

4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))

5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)

Then just sit there and wait, after about one minute the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.


For the fob: This does not require a master fyi.

1. Driver's door open, key removed from ignition switch.

Within 5 seconds:

2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch twice.

Within 40 seconds:

3.Close and open driver's door twice.

Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch.

Within 40 seconds:
4.Close and open driver's door twice.
5. Insert the key into the ignition switch and close the driver's door.
6. Switch ignition ON and OFF once to program a remote transmitter code while retaining the original codes or twice to program a remote transmitter code whilst erasing the original codes. Three times to check how many remote transmitters are currently registered or five times to erase all registered codes.

7.Remove key from ignition switch:

System should now lock and unlock vehicle once, twice or five times
depending which mode has been selected. One to four times, slowly, to
indicate number of remote transmitters registered.

Within 40 seconds:
8.Press and hold LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 1.5 seconds

Within 3 seconds:
9.Press LOCK button.

System should now lock and unlock vehicle once to confirm registration,
twice to indicate registration has failed.

Within 40 seconds:
10.Repeat button procedure to program remaining remote transmitters.

SIDE NOTE: To exit programming mode: Open driver's door.

SIDE NOTE: A maximum of 4 remote transmitters can be programmed.

Simple as that. This was one of the more satisfying mods I've done and it took me a total of about an hour to accomplish.



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So I had time to get the remote start in today as well as the ultragauge.

Install wasn't too bad. The programming of everything took arguably longer but all in all I am pleased. Also the stock mpg computer is off by 2 or so on the low end according to the ultragauge.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...758ac8e30b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3cccaf1bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f64afdc8db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...296bae376d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...68e6b21cbb.jpg

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Some more picshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc51c7d780.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...83907f1ced.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df6fac0bed.jpg

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Got some more work done today. Due to the delay in the suspension shipping intent ahead with rust proofing stage 2.

This included new rubberized coating for the entire underside in the body panels, the outer frame coating up front, and the internal frame coating for the entire truck.

6 cans of 3m rubberized coating
4 cans of internal frame spray
1 can of chassis saver

It is a ton of work and prep however it is all done now and she is sitting for a couple of days to cure. Now for getting to the suspension replacement and other items of interest. The interior went pretty smoothly and I'm liking the ultragauge where I mounted it.

The headlights have been ordered and now it will be waiting on the mail so I can start working that project to its completion. Rx350 projectors will go in the outer and I will be retrofitting the interior with d2s 5.0 projectors from lightwerkz. The glass on the rx350 projectors has been upgraded to the StiR lens https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40600aceae.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0103cf6224.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2d8b38c291.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9be608d626.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc23070a42.jpg

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A few more pictures from the undercoating project. She's curing in a warmer environment right now to be ready for the nasty weather we all know is coming. I'll get the fluid film on Friday.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e91fc3cec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...baeae889cc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6f773539f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...71319e19fe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...794156b5ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bcf3887be4.jpg

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Some goodies were waiting on my front door today. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...20f3bb630e.jpg

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Working hard on the headlights currently and I will compile everything on those after incomplete them.

My front bumper is on the way. I settled on the open top from NWTI and I am super excited to get down to welding them. A friend of mine went in for his tacoma and he has a 220 miller so I will definitely be welding up both bumpers at his house. I might have to take some of my stuff over there but it will feel great welding one 220 rig again. I've gotten used to my Hobart and it's a great little welder but I feel much more comfortable welding a bumper on a more powerful rig.

My arb skid plates are in. The plates are currently in the shed awaiting time for install. I need to drag out the hardware and match it up with stainless buttonhead bolts before I get it all done. Luckily I think I only have one bolt hole that needs to be retapped on the frame.

I have the dash cam 90% installed. I had to use some interesting things to mount the rear camera since the only two places to mount are the rear door right beside the window seal or inside the door on the headliner. Since the headliner wouldn't allow the camera to stick to it and the rear door required a crazy cable run I've opted to get a headliner mount for emergency lights so the camera can be securely mounted without the fear of linking cable to anything like that. I do fear that when the backup camera comes in that I will have to use the crazy camera run and put it centered under the wing....or on the license plate. Both require it to be run into the door.

My Atoto pro A6 is sitting in a box waiting for the stock amp interface and dash kit. From everything I've read it is comparable to the pioneer decks and is more responsive. The reason I picked this deck is because it has dual bluetooth channels for calls and audio plus it is an android based system so it will work well with my phone. It does mirroring and handles Waze internally which is nice.

There are a few led lights I've got coming in the mail and a few other goodies. I did pretty well on black friday but I still have to wait on the suspension from battleborn. As much as I got a great deal for the suspension it hasn't shipped yet because of the 650 springs that I paired for the front.

Pics and posts to follow.

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