06-04-2017, 11:57 PM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,439
Real Name: Matt
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,439
Real Name: Matt
|
Car "pulsing" when braking lightly?
Hello all,
I have a weird problem with my t4r only at city speeds. When I come to a stop light, I will press the brakes pretty lightly from a reasonable amount of distance, maybe 50yrds before the light, so I'm on the brakes very lightly. The brake pedal itself doesn't pulse, but the car brakes like it has warped rotors...
Now.. I don't think it's warped rotors because when I get on the brakes hard, it brakes 100% fine/straight without any pulsing/vibrations. At highway speeds, it's completely fine.
So could it really be warped rotors? Or is this just normal? Or is something wrong?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 12:24 AM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,016
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,016
|
Probably just some pad material build up on the calipers, find a safe road, run it up to about 50-55 mph and brake pretty hard, but do not stop, repete. If you come to a full stop you add more material to the calipers, drive and let the brakes cool down good and you should be good to go.
__________________
2017 Silver SR5 Premium
Vietnam 67-68
Greed and corruption are rampant.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 12:44 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,439
Real Name: Matt
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,439
Real Name: Matt
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedSled
Probably just some pad material build up on the calipers, find a safe road, run it up to about 50-55 mph and brake pretty hard, but do not stop, repete. If you come to a full stop you add more material to the calipers, drive and let the brakes cool down good and you should be good to go.
|
That makes sense since this doesn't happen every time/day, and doesn't happen after getting off the highway, when i'm braking the heaviest...
Are there anyways to prevent this without having to go slotted rotors? Or just brake hard? Lol
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 08:03 AM
|
#4
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
Mine does this. It's so annoying. On the highway there's zero vibration, but when I brake at like 10mph for stoplights and such, the entire car sloooowly pulses. It feels horrible and I'm always embarrassed when I have passengers...
I'll try the heat em up method, but might just get the rotors turned or replaced if that doesn't help.
__________________
'04 4Runner - Build Thread | '05 CBR 600RR & 1000RR - The slow vehicles ;)
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 10:05 AM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,016
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,016
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
That makes sense since this doesn't happen every time/day, and doesn't happen after getting off the highway, when i'm braking the heaviest...
Are there anyways to prevent this without having to go slotted rotors? Or just brake hard? Lol
|
You could try a different pad, some people like ceramic, or semi metalic. That also effects the stopping power.
__________________
2017 Silver SR5 Premium
Vietnam 67-68
Greed and corruption are rampant.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 10:16 AM
|
#6
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedSled
You could try a different pad, some people like ceramic, or semi metalic. That also effects the stopping power.
|
Yeah, different compound pads will make a big difference. I've noticed that unless you get the top-tier ones, auto parts store brand pads will leave deposits. I ended up going with EBC redstuff/yellowstuff on my 3000GT to get decent pads.
If you're willing to spend the money/if you do a lot of towing or have a heavy rig, you might wanna check out EBC Yellowstuff pads. They're great for trucks. Not particularly cheap, though.
__________________
'04 4Runner - Build Thread | '05 CBR 600RR & 1000RR - The slow vehicles ;)
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 10:42 AM
|
#7
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 114
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 114
|
I just went through the same thing, but it turns out I had a sticky rear brake pad. The rear calipers float and the pads should easily come out of the bracket they are in. I had two issues. First, one of the caliper bolts had become sticky. The rubber boot had split so it got a bit grimy in there. I pulled the caliper bolt, bought a boot kit at AutoZone for 6 bucks and redid it. The caliper bolt was not rusty so I just cleaned it and reinstalled it. The second issue was that on one side of the rear brake one pad was stuck in there very hard. I mean I had to use a screwdriver to pry it out. I pulled the pad bracket off the hub, popped off the stainless shims and filed the rust out from underneath the shims. It seems like the rust caused the shims to compress around the tabs on the end of the brake pad. So it was literally stuck in there. Once I cleaned it up and reinstalled everything the pad went in easy and moved better.
I talked with a mechanic friend of mine and he thought that my stuck pad was just riding on the rotor surface and heating it up on one side faster than the other. So the rotor would warp a bit and you would get pulsing. It didn't do this all the time so I don't believe the rotor was permanently warped. It would happen after I had been doing a fair amount of stop and go driving around town. And it never pulsed right when I started driving. And it never pulsed on the highway. Only after it heated up.
It turns out the pads were low so I just did a brake job when it was apart. Put new rotors on with new pads and no more pulsing.
Just pull your rear tires and the caliper. Check the caliper bolts to make sure they are lubed and that they float. Then see if the pads are really stuck in there hard or whether they can be taken out reasonably easy. If you have one stuck on one side then clean it up like I did and see what happens. You could probably check and lube both sides in about an hour or two depending on your experience on the 4runner set up.
__________________
2004 V8 Limited, Volant CAI, iPod mod to Navi, FJ Rim Swap
Last edited by MidwestT4R; 06-05-2017 at 10:46 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 11:03 AM
|
#8
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MidwestT4R
I just went through the same thing, but it turns out I had a sticky rear brake pad. The rear calipers float and the pads should easily come out of the bracket they are in. I had two issues. First, one of the caliper bolts had become sticky. The rubber boot had split so it got a bit grimy in there. I pulled the caliper bolt, bought a boot kit at AutoZone for 6 bucks and redid it. The caliper bolt was not rusty so I just cleaned it and reinstalled it. The second issue was that on one side of the rear brake one pad was stuck in there very hard. I mean I had to use a screwdriver to pry it out. I pulled the pad bracket off the hub, popped off the stainless shims and filed the rust out from underneath the shims. It seems like the rust caused the shims to compress around the tabs on the end of the brake pad. So it was literally stuck in there. Once I cleaned it up and reinstalled everything the pad went in easy and moved better.
I talked with a mechanic friend of mine and he thought that my stuck pad was just riding on the rotor surface and heating it up on one side faster than the other. So the rotor would warp a bit and you would get pulsing. It didn't do this all the time so I don't believe the rotor was permanently warped. It would happen after I had been doing a fair amount of stop and go driving around town. And it never pulsed right when I started driving. And it never pulsed on the highway. Only after it heated up.
It turns out the pads were low so I just did a brake job when it was apart. Put new rotors on with new pads and no more pulsing.
Just pull your rear tires and the caliper. Check the caliper bolts to make sure they are lubed and that they float. Then see if the pads are really stuck in there hard or whether they can be taken out reasonably easy. If you have one stuck on one side then clean it up like I did and see what happens. You could probably check and lube both sides in about an hour or two depending on your experience on the 4runner set up.
|
My rear pads were in the same shape when I replaced em a month or so ago. I had to pry 3/4 of them out with a screwdriver. I wonder if mine could've permanently warped the rear rotors or something like that.
Then, the new anti-rattle clips also wouldn't fit with the new pads. So they're rattling like mad over bumps till I figure out how to solve that part...Might end up shaving off the end of a pad so they fit in em.
__________________
'04 4Runner - Build Thread | '05 CBR 600RR & 1000RR - The slow vehicles ;)
Last edited by kcdehart; 06-05-2017 at 11:06 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 11:48 AM
|
#9
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 114
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 114
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcdehart
My rear pads were in the same shape when I replaced em a month or so ago. I had to pry 3/4 of them out with a screwdriver. I wonder if mine could've permanently warped the rear rotors or something like that.
Then, the new anti-rattle clips also wouldn't fit with the new pads. So they're rattling like mad over bumps till I figure out how to solve that part...Might end up shaving off the end of a pad so they fit in em.
|
I think you are referring to the stainless shims that you install in the bracket that holds the pads. Maybe they are just for anti rattle. I thought they were there to help prevent the metal tabs from rusting onto the brake pad frame. Either way, I literally took that pad bracket off of the hub and took a metal file to the part where the stainless shims fit. I didn't file it bigger. I just filed off the rust that accumulated under the shims. And that is on all the surfaces the stainless shims touch. Before I did this I could barely fit the pad in one side because of how tight it was. After doing this on all the surfaces where those shims go, top and bottom, both sides of the brake pad bracket, the shims fit flush and the pads installed just fine. The before and after was pretty clear. Before I filed it you could see gaps behind the stainless shims when I put them in the bracket. Small gaps but enough to see how it could cause compression on the pad tabs. After filing the shim fit flush on all surfaces and the pads went in fine.
__________________
2004 V8 Limited, Volant CAI, iPod mod to Navi, FJ Rim Swap
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 11:57 AM
|
#10
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MidwestT4R
I think you are referring to the stainless shims that you install in the bracket that holds the pads. Maybe they are just for anti rattle. I thought they were there to help prevent the metal tabs from rusting onto the brake pad frame. Either way, I literally took that pad bracket off of the hub and took a metal file to the part where the stainless shims fit. I didn't file it bigger. I just filed off the rust that accumulated under the shims. And that is on all the surfaces the stainless shims touch. Before I did this I could barely fit the pad in one side because of how tight it was. After doing this on all the surfaces where those shims go, top and bottom, both sides of the brake pad bracket, the shims fit flush and the pads installed just fine. The before and after was pretty clear. Before I filed it you could see gaps behind the stainless shims when I put them in the bracket. Small gaps but enough to see how it could cause compression on the pad tabs. After filing the shim fit flush on all surfaces and the pads went in fine.
|
Yeah, they're called "anti-rattle springs" sometimes. And believe me, the pads rattle over any damn bump without em. It sounds awful. As soon as I hit the brakes and go over the same bump, no rattle.
I might give filing em a try. Or just hit the surfaces with some sandpaper.
__________________
'04 4Runner - Build Thread | '05 CBR 600RR & 1000RR - The slow vehicles ;)
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 12:13 PM
|
#11
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 493
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 493
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
Hello all,
I have a weird problem with my t4r only at city speeds. When I come to a stop light, I will press the brakes pretty lightly from a reasonable amount of distance, maybe 50yrds before the light, so I'm on the brakes very lightly. The brake pedal itself doesn't pulse, but the car brakes like it has warped rotors...
Now.. I don't think it's warped rotors because when I get on the brakes hard, it brakes 100% fine/straight without any pulsing/vibrations. At highway speeds, it's completely fine.
So could it really be warped rotors? Or is this just normal? Or is something wrong?
|
I had the same problem, when stopping at low speed my car made a 'whop whop whop' sound and had a shake to it. After replacing the tires, front calipers, front rotors, and front wheel bearings. I came across this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...thread.152173/
The front differential needle bearing was my problem. Which only affects the V6 4wd 4Runners. I replaced the needle bearing with the clamshell bushing from ECGS and all is well.
Its worth looking into.
__________________
08' 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 Level 8 MK6 wheels//Kenwood DDX9903s//JL 10W3v3 on 500/1//LEDs//ICON Ext Coilovers FR//Metaltech LT Rear Springs w/ Dobinson LT Shocks//JBA UCAs//spidertrax//5th gen brakes in front//295/70/17 Cooper Maxx//SS brake lines// http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ld-thread.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 12:46 PM
|
#12
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfry008
I had the same problem, when stopping at low speed my car made a 'whop whop whop' sound and had a shake to it. After replacing the tires, front calipers, front rotors, and front wheel bearings. I came across this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...thread.152173/
The front differential needle bearing was my problem. Which only affects the V6 4wd 4Runners. I replaced the needle bearing with the clamshell bushing from ECGS and all is well.
Its worth looking into.
|
Was this all the time when slowing down? Or just when braking?
__________________
'04 4Runner - Build Thread | '05 CBR 600RR & 1000RR - The slow vehicles ;)
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 12:51 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: washington
Posts: 4,990
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: washington
Posts: 4,990
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedSled
Probably just some pad material build up on the calipers, find a safe road, run it up to about 50-55 mph and brake pretty hard, but do not stop, repete. If you come to a full stop you add more material to the calipers, drive and let the brakes cool down good and you should be good to go.
|
this. all day this.
excellent advice!
as said, the rotors aren't warped, its most likely friction material build-up, as mentioned. if the above doesn't work, unfortunately the solution is the same as if they were warped. to resurface or replace the rotors and pads.
you might even be able to pull the rotors off, and carefully buff the braking surface with a 3M pad, or course sand paper.
__________________
1985 pickup : EFI 331/4r70W-Dana 300-42 TSL SXII's/raceline beadlocks-30spl longs-5.29's-spools-sky Hi steer-OBA/4g tank-10.5k RR winch-dual blue tops-200 amp alt-flatbed.
1985 4runner sr5 : 22RE/5spd-6" pro-comp suspension-37 BFG at's-5.29 gears-Badlands Basher bumper-8.5k RR winch.
2006 4runner v8 limited : stock. Build Thread YouTube Channel
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 01:22 PM
|
#14
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 493
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 493
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcdehart
Was this all the time when slowing down? Or just when braking?
|
It happened when slowing down at low speeds, even after letting off the brakes if I remember right.
__________________
08' 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 Level 8 MK6 wheels//Kenwood DDX9903s//JL 10W3v3 on 500/1//LEDs//ICON Ext Coilovers FR//Metaltech LT Rear Springs w/ Dobinson LT Shocks//JBA UCAs//spidertrax//5th gen brakes in front//295/70/17 Cooper Maxx//SS brake lines// http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ld-thread.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-05-2017, 01:24 PM
|
#15
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 770
Real Name: Kevin
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfry008
It happened when slowing down at low speeds, even after letting off the brakes if I remember right.
|
That makes sense. I just wanted to check to be sure. Not sure about OP, but mine stops pulsing when I let off the brakes
__________________
'04 4Runner - Build Thread | '05 CBR 600RR & 1000RR - The slow vehicles ;)
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|