[Drift Monkey]

Hi y'all!

I picked up a white 06 4Runner Sport Edition 4WD V8 yesterday and have been lovin' it. At 71k miles, she's very mechanically sound...I tested the center diff lock and 4LO before buying. But of course, a few issues have popped up. After doing some searching and reading, I've found the solutions to most of them, but not all (yet).

One of the headlight bulbs has a bad/loose connection, but that's an easy fix (gonna try the modded H9 bulbs).

The center LCD info display lights are burnt out too, but all the other console lights seem to be ok. Also an easy fix, should be able to pick up a couple (90010-09017) bulbs from the dealership tomorrow (or maybe just online if they don't come through).

The main thing that didn't seem to rear it's ugly head during my test drives (or course) is this weird buzzing sound coming from the passenger side dash that sounds off shortly after I start her up. It goes away shortly, but a couple of times it made my VSC OFF and VSC Trac (and maybe Check Engine) lights stay on. They go away if I kill her and restart, but I thought it was odd.

Possibly related, it seems like none of my HVAC vents work except the defrost vents. The center console vents and lower vents don't seem to blow very hard, if at all, even when switch to the corresponding setting. The rear vents also seem to be affected as well. I honestly can't remember if this occurred while I was test driving her, but it's odd. I probably should have paid more attention to that instead of the center diff/4LO... Does this sound like a blend door actuator/gear issue?

Any ideas?

[Drift Monkey]

Alright, now for some updates. First things first, some proper pictures of her!





H9 bulbs will be here Friday...so still waiting on those.

Fixed the console LED display with bulbs from the dealership.



But...I noticed a couple more burnt out bulbs. The rear window button, the hazard lights button, and the DAC button. The DAC I could replace with ease since it pops right out, but the other 2 seem a bit more tricky. I assume they sort of pop out the same way?

THE VCS OFF/VSC TRAC/CEL issue has not reappeared (thank goodness), but I'm still getting the buzz which I believe to be the blend door actuator/gear. I captured some videos of the buzz (sorry for the crappy phone videos).

[fourwd1]

IIRC a small motor that controls the vents goes bad and creates the buzzing. I can't find the specifics right now but search on it.

[Drift Monkey]

Originally Posted by fourwd1

IIRC a small motor that controls the vents goes bad and creates the buzzing. I can't find the specifics right now but search on it.

Thanks for the reply. I figured it was probably that...continuing to search now.

[wheese88]

were you driving around 360/1 yesterday? I saw one like yours out there.

GL getting everything worked out.

[Drift Monkey]

Originally Posted by wheese88

were you driving around 360/1 yesterday? I saw one like yours out there.

GL getting everything worked out.

I was actually. I stopped by that Walmart over there to grab some ATF for the power steering (it was tad low).

[SSt4r]

Those other switches do "pop" out, but you probably have to get them from the back side to do it. Requires removing the center console then forward to the center bezel where they are. It's not that hard. Will post directions if I can find them (found them: http://castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/ ) but if you start by opening the armrest, you can pull up on the shift bezel (the piece where the DAC switch is). It'll just pop up. Once you get that, the rest is pretty easy to figure out.
Also check this out toward the end: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ing-wheel.html It has a chart in there somewhere with the bulbs you'll need.
Chart here:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1812018-post1041.html

[Drift Monkey]

Originally Posted by SSt4r

Those other switches do "pop" out, but you probably have to get them from the back side to do it. Requires removing the center console then forward to the center bezel where they are. It's not that hard. Will post directions if I can find them but if you start by opening the armrest, you can pull up on the shift bezel (the piece where the DAC switch is). It'll just pop up. Once you get that, the rest is pretty easy to figure out.
Also check this out toward the end: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ing-wheel.html It has a chart in there somewhere with the bulbs you'll need.
Chart here:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1812018-post1041.html

Thanks for the info! Looks like I'll need part#: 90010-01088 for the DAC...I'm not sure about the other 2, but I think they're the same part, not sure.

[Dylan]

Originally Posted by fourwd1

IIRC a small motor that controls the vents goes bad and creates the buzzing. I can't find the specifics right now but search on it.

Is it the motor that controls whether air is fresh versus recirculated? I remember another member having an issue with that valve/flap motor a while back.

[Drift Monkey]

Originally Posted by Dylan

Is it the motor that controls whether air is fresh versus recirculated? I remember another member having an issue with that valve/flap motor a while back.

In my case, I don't think it's that one, only because it doesn't make the noise going from fresh to recirc air, just between air directions (upper, lower, mixed, etc). The only time it doesn't buzz is on defrost.

[Drift Monkey]

I took the glove box/cubby off today, poked around, and found the source of the problem. It is indeed the HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator (part number: 87106-35120). This part if not too expensive (luckily), but I'm going to try to take it out and see if I can fix it before ordering a new unit. THe problem is getting the damn thing out! It looks like I may have to remove the entire blower assembly to get to the mounting screws that are tucked further in (not a whole lotta room in there). Maybe a flexible screwdriver would work?

On another note, did the H9s last weekend and was impressed. Much brighter and glare doesn't seem to be an issue.

[Drift Monkey]

So I tore my hands up (yes, there was blood) for about 3 hours today and have good and bad news.

The good news is, I got the stupid HVAC heater blend door actuator out and it works fine. I opened her up and inspected...the contacts were a little dirty but not too bad. I hooked it up to the truck (before reinstalling) and messed with the switches and it turned smoothly, no buzzing. So it's not the actual actuator/motor itself.

I took a shortcut to getting it out. I unscrewed the actuator from the mount and unscrewed the top 2 mounting screws and bent the mount a bit to get the actuator out. It worked great, except when I went to reassemble, I dropped the rear mounting screw somewhere. This normally would be ok, since everything just falls to the floor mat...but not this screw. This screw went to the abyss.

The bad news is, the source of the problem seems to lie in how the blender door arms (there are 3) fit into the white plastic piece (it has tracks that accept the rods from the door arms) connected to actuator motor. It almost seems like someone tried to fix this before and didn't reassemble correctly to begin with (hence the buzz ). Anyways, now I have to figure out how to line it up correctly so the actuator can turn and move the blend door arms...not exactly an easy task since there is literally NO SPACE in there. I may end up just pulling the blower motor assembly just for this (and maybe find that damn screw). Either that or I might just take her somewhere so someone else can deal with it (at least I know there won't be parts costs involved, just labor). I know my hands would probably thank me....

On the upside (although ghetto), I am able to manually move the air controls now. I set it where all the vents are open, figured it's simpler that way and covers all bases (in case I need the defrost, etc). I wish that stuff was still just manually controlled. Ah well, at least I have air coming through my center vents now...

[mjyeams]

I'm a few years late to the party here... i had the same thing happen recently on my 2006. i pulled the upper blend door motor assembly from the metal bracket. I could only get two of the three bracket screws out, but it was enough to get the motor assembly detached and removed.

Plugging the motor assembly back into the wiring harness after it was removed revealed that it was still working properly. Manipulating the blend doors by hand, everything turned smoothly and easily. I figured maybe they just got bound up somehow.

In order to reinstall, I removed the white plastic piece with the grooves for the blend door arms from the black motor assembly. I was able to pretty easily get it oriented correctly for the blend doors to line back up in the correct grooves. Turning by hand everything seemed to work great. The white plastic piece wouldn't stay without me holding it, so I taped it to hold in place until i was able to get the motor unit oriented back to the bracket. I snapped it into the white piece and pressed the bracket to keep it in place, reinstalling the bracket screws.

Everything works now! Just a remove and re-install cleared up the issue.

[GOX]

Originally Posted by mjyeams

I'm a few years late to the party here... i had the same thing happen recently on my 2006. i pulled the upper blend door motor assembly from the metal bracket. I could only get two of the three bracket screws out, but it was enough to get the motor assembly detached and removed.

Plugging the motor assembly back into the wiring harness after it was removed revealed that it was still working properly. Manipulating the blend doors by hand, everything turned smoothly and easily. I figured maybe they just got bound up somehow.

In order to reinstall, I removed the white plastic piece with the grooves for the blend door arms from the black motor assembly. I was able to pretty easily get it oriented correctly for the blend doors to line back up in the correct grooves. Turning by hand everything seemed to work great. The white plastic piece wouldn't stay without me holding it, so I taped it to hold in place until i was able to get the motor unit oriented back to the bracket. I snapped it into the white piece and pressed the bracket to keep it in place, reinstalling the bracket screws.

Everything works now! Just a remove and re-install cleared up the issue.

I'm having the same noise on my son's 2004 Sport. The upper Dash vents will on blow thru the front passenger vents during defrost. I will try this weekend to see if this will fix.

thanks,
Go

[James2003]

Having the same issue with my 2003 sport. The blend door actuator went out so I ordered the replacement. The AC system blows cold and hot air(when I manually close the blend door) but completely shuts down when the new motor is installed. The controls and LCD screen goes out as well. Last night I noticed the relay was clicking as I was checking fuses. Should I try replace the relay or should I look for other issues?