[CPT2nr88]

Backstory:
On memorial day I was taking a road trip and about half way into the 3 hour trip my TPMS light started blinking in my 05 4runner. I knew that it meant a sensor has gone bad but I stopped at the next exit just to double check my tire pressures and do a quick online search to confirm. I continued on my way.

When I got back from the trip I took it to Les schwab to figure out which sensor went bad. They pulled it in and sent em to wait inside. about 15 minutes later the tech came in and claimed that he couldn't get a reading from any of the tires and all the sensors failed and would cost a little over 400$ to replace them all. I immediately left because I knew there was absolutely no way that all 5 batteries in each sensor would fail within 48 hours of each other.

Since I have been planning to get new wheels I figured now would be a good time. So I ordered 5 denso 5500101 sensors from rock auto for much cheaper than les schwab wanted. After some research I ordered a ATEQ Quickset to program the new sensors.

Well I still don't have my new wheels yet but I have the sensors and the quickset andd the blinking light on my dash was bothering me. I figured I'd rather have it on solid saying a tire pressure was low rather than blinking. I took the quickset and pulled the codes from the OBD2 port. They were as follows:
FL:095C4090
FR:09A09090
RR:04AD0090
RL:04ACF090
SPARE:01983090

Immediatly the spare stood out to me as being different than the other 4. I was pretty sure when I changed tires previously I had also had the TPMS replaced. which would mean that the 4 on were newer than the spare and the spare was likely my culprit. So using the Quickset tool I reprogrammed it to look for the same 4 sensors and one of the new sensors that I would just keep in glove box until my new wheels arrived.

(Here's where my question arises)
I expected it to have the TPMS light come on solid saying that one of my tires is low... but instead it just went off. i figured maybe I need to drive it a bit to get the ECU to check the tire pressures and send out a warning. But after driving around to and from work for a day it hasn't turned on yet. Which got me thinking:

Our 4runners don't have a TPMS button to push to program the tire pressure like other toyota/lexus models. Perhaps when we program new sensors the ECU looks at the pressure they are at and stores that the pressure they should be and when the pressure drops to some number of PSI below that pressure, it then turns on to signal a low tire. Rather than having a pressure hard coded into the ECU that if the sensors drop below it turns on. Is that how the TPMS works?

Since I programmed my 4runner through the OBD2 with the spare sensor at regular air pressure that would explain why the light just went off. It thinks that 0PSI is what the tire is supposed to be at.

I plan to experiment this weekend with reprogramming the ecu with the spare sensor in some sort of pressure vessel and then letting the air out to see if it then triggers the low pressure indicator. But I was curious if anyone else has experienced this? I haven't seen any other threads going into detail just general TPMS questions.

If this is the case then this is a super simple way for people to get their TPMS light to go out without having to do the wiring mod. You simply take the 5 sensors from your OEM wheels reprogram the ECU to them at atmospheric pressure and throw them in the glove box, under a seat anyplace in the car and you don't have to worry about having them on aftermarket wheels.

[benztech82]

Originally Posted by CPT2nr88

Backstory:
On memorial day I was taking a road trip and about half way into the 3 hour trip my TPMS light started blinking in my 05 4runner. I knew that it meant a sensor has gone bad but I stopped at the next exit just to double check my tire pressures and do a quick online search to confirm. I continued on my way.

When I got back from the trip I took it to Les schwab to figure out which sensor went bad. They pulled it in and sent em to wait inside. about 15 minutes later the tech came in and claimed that he couldn't get a reading from any of the tires and all the sensors failed and would cost a little over 400$ to replace them all. I immediately left because I knew there was absolutely no way that all 5 batteries in each sensor would fail within 48 hours of each other.

Since I have been planning to get new wheels I figured now would be a good time. So I ordered 5 denso 5500101 sensors from rock auto for much cheaper than les schwab wanted. After some research I ordered a ATEQ Quickset to program the new sensors.

Well I still don't have my new wheels yet but I have the sensors and the quickset andd the blinking light on my dash was bothering me. I figured I'd rather have it on solid saying a tire pressure was low rather than blinking. I took the quickset and pulled the codes from the OBD2 port. They were as follows:
FL:095C4090
FR:09A09090
RR:04AD0090
RL:04ACF090
SPARE:01983090

Immediatly the spare stood out to me as being different than the other 4. I was pretty sure when I changed tires previously I had also had the TPMS replaced. which would mean that the 4 on were newer than the spare and the spare was likely my culprit. So using the Quickset tool I reprogrammed it to look for the same 4 sensors and one of the new sensors that I would just keep in glove box until my new wheels arrived.

(Here's where my question arises)
I expected it to have the TPMS light come on solid saying that one of my tires is low... but instead it just went off. i figured maybe I need to drive it a bit to get the ECU to check the tire pressures and send out a warning. But after driving around to and from work for a day it hasn't turned on yet. Which got me thinking:

Our 4runners don't have a TPMS button to push to program the tire pressure like other toyota/lexus models. Perhaps when we program new sensors the ECU looks at the pressure they are at and stores that the pressure they should be and when the pressure drops to some number of PSI below that pressure, it then turns on to signal a low tire. Rather than having a pressure hard coded into the ECU that if the sensors drop below it turns on. Is that how the TPMS works?

Since I programmed my 4runner through the OBD2 with the spare sensor at regular air pressure that would explain why the light just went off. It thinks that 0PSI is what the tire is supposed to be at.

I plan to experiment this weekend with reprogramming the ecu with the spare sensor in some sort of pressure vessel and then letting the air out to see if it then triggers the low pressure indicator. But I was curious if anyone else has experienced this? I haven't seen any other threads going into detail just general TPMS questions.

If this is the case then this is a super simple way for people to get their TPMS light to go out without having to do the wiring mod. You simply take the 5 sensors from your OEM wheels reprogram the ECU to them at atmospheric pressure and throw them in the glove box, under a seat anyplace in the car and you don't have to worry about having them on aftermarket wheels.

I just have bought a 2005 V6 and it had tpms light on solid. I used Autel basic scanner to program all 4 sensors. It worked perfectly, also, i did have a nail too, which i fixed later. TPMS failed on my truck due to dead battery I assume. Try to check for nails and program with obd2 scanner. Hope it helps.

[BlackWorksInc]

TPMS is weird and finicky...

I've had it where it's super picky about PSI drops and I've had members who just run without sensors and the light never comes on...

So honestly I don't know. Hell I just had a 2016 Tacoma come in to have an ADD Actuator replaced under warranty and a week later when he came back his TPMS light is flashing. Turns out the TPMS system decided to just up and realize that he's been running his summer wheels vs. his programmed winter ones, after a month or so of switching over.

[Zulu95]

Bought one of the excellent ATEQ Quickset kits just after we bought the Toy because the wheel sensors had failed due to dead batteries. After picking up a set of new sensors and having them fitted everything went well with the programming.
The change in ambient temperature from Fall to Winter always throws a light and we have to air up all five tires. If I remember correctly the sensors came with a "working pressure" stipulation and a warning that outside of this range a light would be tripped. The ATEQ Quickset kit and 5 new sensors and fitting cost less than than the $tealer quoted for connecting his factory computer, telling me what was what and giving me an estimate as to repair costs. So the ATEQ Quickset saved us a bundle and we still have it for next time.

[BlackWorksInc]

Originally Posted by Zulu95

Bought one of the excellent ATEQ Quickset kits just after we bought the Toy because the wheel sensors had failed due to dead batteries. After picking up a set of new sensors and having them fitted everything went well with the programming.
The change in ambient temperature from Fall to Winter always throws a light and we have to air up all five tires. If I remember correctly the sensors came with a "working pressure" stipulation and a warning that outside of this range a light would be tripped. The ATEQ Quickset kit and 5 new sensors and fitting cost less than than the $tealer quoted for connecting his factory computer, telling me what was what and giving me an estimate as to repair costs. So the ATEQ Quickset saved us a bundle and we still have it for next time.

So buying 5 aftermarket sensors, the tool to program them with, and having them installed cost less than a 1hr diagnosis cost at the dealership? Either your dealership is charging some ridiculously high price for diagnosis or that kit is almost suspiciously cheap.

[toyo]

Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc

So buying 5 aftermarket sensors, the tool to program them with, and having them installed cost less than a 1hr diagnosis cost at the dealership? Either your dealership is charging some ridiculously high price for diagnosis or that kit is almost suspiciously cheap.

Ha! My thoughts exactly.

On RockAuto the Denso TPMS sensor, 550-0103, is $31.00. So for 5 of them your'e looking roughly at $160.00 with tax and shipping. Like Blackworks stated, your dealer is very expensive or he misquoted.

Here is what I would do for owners that don't have access to the TechStream to reprogram the new ID's into the body ECU. Buy your new sensors at RockAuto and take them to a tire shop. Have them installed and they will do the programming etc. For less than $300.00 you will have all new sensors and all will be fixed.

Another option for the cheapest fix is to remove the cluster and pull the backside apart. Un-solder the light from the board and put it back together. You'll never see the light again.

A lot of people spend so much time trying to circumvent the system. Just fix it!

[Trumpet]

Originally Posted by toyo

Ha! My thoughts exactly.



Another option for the cheapest fix is to remove the cluster and pull the backside apart. Un-solder the light from the board and put it back together. You'll never see the light again.

A lot of people spend so much time trying to circumvent the system. Just fix it!

Instead of pulling the cluster, you can do this: Write-up: How to Disable (Bypass) the TPMS. For about 20 cents

[CPT2nr88]

Originally Posted by toyo

Buy your new sensors at RockAuto and take them to a tire shop. Have them installed and they will do the programming etc. For less than $300.00 you will have all new sensors and all will be fixed.

The one issue I ran into was tire shops like les schwab refused to install and program sensors that weren't theirs. However if its a smaller shop and perhaps not a chain you probably won't have this issue.

[gfluff]

I work in a Costco Tire Center, and I can tell you that TPMS is weird and moody. Many instances of lights going on and off without reason, and none more than toyotas. My own does a little something weird. I had the spare off the 4R completely and the light never came on. Shouldn't it have noticed and thrown a blinking light? I can tell you they we will install and program for $15 each, doesn't have to be bought from us.
Just helped a guy with a civic last week. He'd hit a pothole and cracked a rim. The shop that welded up his rim (whole other story) had pulled out the TPMS sensor and popped in a regular stem. The light didn't come on for over a month? He came to us with a "why is my light on" question, we asked where he sensor was...he said "no, that happened a month ago, it's been fine...." huh? ��

[BobbyDavis]

Can anyone direct me to a thread that describes how to reset or program TPMS between winter and summer wheels/tires? Thanks in advance

[oljedi11950]

As long as you park within 50 yards of other set shouldn't have to do anything !!

[dubsea]

My 2007 4runner just tire light just started blinking. Big O tires wants 700 to replace all sensors. When pushed on which one was bad, they would only say that all needed to be replaced. They want $200 if I bring them the sensors myself which still seems high knowing what they have to do to install them.

Will the ATEQ Quickset also identify which sensor is bad? I would like to just replace the single bad unit. I know these things go out every 10 years or so, but it just doesnt make sense to me to replace all at once. So if I identify which is bad and get the new one installed, the ATEQ Quickset should be all I need to program?

[MightyP]

Originally Posted by dubsea

My 2007 4runner just tire light just started blinking. Big O tires wants 700 to replace all sensors. When pushed on which one was bad, they would only say that all needed to be replaced. They want $200 if I bring them the sensors myself which still seems high knowing what they have to do to install them.

Will the ATEQ Quickset also identify which sensor is bad? I would like to just replace the single bad unit. I know these things go out every 10 years or so, but it just doesnt make sense to me to replace all at once. So if I identify which is bad and get the new one installed, the ATEQ Quickset should be all I need to program?

Try a different tire shop. Walk with the guy who tests the sensors. It's possible (I guess) they all went bad at the same time. Also, shouldn't be more than about $50/sensor with all the labor. $700 is probably more than the dealership would charge you.

[oljedi11950]

Like BWInc says very finicky , when I put the Bridgs. 285s on son's 05 we had the spare go on & couldn't get it off , assumed bad battery but being cheap ******* I went behind glove box were that ecu is & unplugged it wala , left it off for about a week & it hasn't come back on in years (2) go figure !!

[jzchen]

The sensors only transmit when tires are revolving no? So the system is not checking the spare unless you mount it? So if you replace the faulty one with the spare, (whose battery should last a lot longer since it is not actively transmitting), and the light goes off, you've found the culprit.