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Old 01-02-2020, 04:30 PM #16
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Originally Posted by 4runherpow View Post
I will update this thread once I talk to the fab shop. I like threads that have resolutions so I’ll try and stick to that philosophy
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:21 PM #17
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Originally Posted by 4runherpow View Post
Wow, really good and thorough advice — thank you!

I already have in writing from Toyota that there was damaged done to control arm brackets during removal of old arms. I have the documentation that the garage performed that work. I’m going to have a really good body/fab shop estimate the damage and give me something in writing. I spoke with the garage already and told the manager I was very upset with what they did and it needed to be made right. He said he wanted to look at the damage with his tech (he was off) which will be tomorrow or Friday.

I will definitely heed the advice given.

I kind of hope that the fab shop thinks the repair can be done fairly easily as I do not want the garage to balk at a super high bill. I think of it can be done at a reasonable price I have a better chance of the garage paying. Lastly, I just want whoever does fix it to be VERY good at this type of work... any recommendations in the DC/NOVA area for a really good, no bs fab/4x4 shop?

Thanks again for all of the help. Greatly appreciated
I understand you aren't happy with the initial work performed by the shop. however as a shop owner, shit happens sometimes, but I would always want the first shot at fixing the problem. it would be 100% free warranty work of course...

I dont really see too much that is concerning. the lower arms can be a real mother to get out once the bolt seizes to the sleeve. some marks and scarring is to be expected. they should have cleaned it up a bit. Im guessing the tech was pretty tired/frustrated after fighting to get them apart.

my suggestion is let the shop take a look, and see what they say, then go from there.
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Old 01-02-2020, 10:50 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada View Post
I understand you aren't happy with the initial work performed by the shop. however as a shop owner, shit happens sometimes, but I would always want the first shot at fixing the problem. it would be 100% free warranty work of course...

I dont really see too much that is concerning. the lower arms can be a real mother to get out once the bolt seizes to the sleeve. some marks and scarring is to be expected. they should have cleaned it up a bit. Im guessing the tech was pretty tired/frustrated after fighting to get them apart.

my suggestion is let the shop take a look, and see what they say, then go from there.
Having cut out the cams and replaced the LCA's myself, there really is no excuse for those marks. It's easy as heck to the bolts without messing up the mounts that bad. Sawzall and a decent blade it takes very little time and is a straight cut. Once you realize the bolts are frozen (a minute or 2) you pull out the saw and have at it. Shop would obviously give the customer a call at this point, but it seems they were already replacing the LCA's and hardware, so not sure that would even be necessary here...

That said, I agree that you should take it back to the shop and give them the chance to make it right.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:07 AM #19
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Really the photos don't look too bad. I twisted those tabs a bit on mine getting mine out and hammered them back into place for the new install. Plenty of metal there to hold everything in place.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:35 PM #20
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Quote:
Just a tip, when you're quoting people you need to make sure their username is included, all of your quotes are not showing who they are from thus, the person isn't getting any notification of your response. Just click the quote button and then type your message under their quote
I m using the browser and not the app on my phone. So it looks like I’m suppose to type between the quote brackets it populated for me once I hit the out button. Is that not correct? Thanks for the heads up
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:42 PM #21
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I understand you aren't happy with the initial work performed by the shop. however as a shop owner, shit happens sometimes, but I would always want the first shot at fixing the problem. it would be 100% free warranty work of course...

I dont really see too much that is concerning. the lower arms can be a real mother to get out once the bolt seizes to the sleeve. some marks and scarring is to be expected. they should have cleaned it up a bit. Im guessing the tech was pretty tired/frustrated after fighting to get them apart.

my suggestion is let the shop take a look, and see what they say, then go from there.
I will have to respectfully disagree with you for three reasons:
1. The shop did not call or notify me to let me know the arms would need to be taken out by an alternative method (i.e. sawzall) and this would then imply risk to damaging surfaces
2. They returned the vehicle to me and don’t even mention the tech needed to get them out in that manner and this left marks and gashes in the frame
3. The freakin guy didn’t even clean up AT ALL after his mess, which is what really pisses me off. At least apply some rustolem or something to the exposed metal YOU CUT, otherwise, whomever says it’s not a big deal is 100% incorrect. Living In the northeast those gashes will rust badly with zero protection and could cause a REAL problem in 3-5 years.

Lastly, I will not have them fix (which is wishful thinking) any work on her based of the completely apathetic approach they took in the first place and their lack of communication.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:45 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaino View Post
Having cut out the cams and replaced the LCA's myself, there really is no excuse for those marks. It's easy as heck to the bolts without messing up the mounts that bad. Sawzall and a decent blade it takes very little time and is a straight cut. Once you realize the bolts are frozen (a minute or 2) you pull out the saw and have at it. Shop would obviously give the customer a call at this point, but it seems they were already replacing the LCA's and hardware, so not sure that would even be necessary here...

That said, I agree that you should take it back to the shop and give them the chance to make it right.
I agree with all of this. And I will give them a chance to explain themselves but if welding is involved then no shot I let them touch my truck again.

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Originally Posted by gaber6 View Post
Really the photos don't look too bad. I twisted those tabs a bit on mine getting mine out and hammered them back into place for the new install. Plenty of metal there to hold everything in place.
You’re probably right with their strength but I’m not cool with shops cutting into your frame, and one of the cuts is half a quarter size deep. That’s like 5mm deep. That’s not surface
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:45 PM #23
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Originally Posted by That_Titanium_4RNR View Post
Just a tip, when you're quoting people you need to make sure their username is included, all of your quotes are not showing who they are from thus, the person isn't getting any notification of your response. Just click the quote button and then type your message under their quote
I figured it out. Thanks man
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Old 01-05-2020, 04:57 PM #24
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It does not seem like the structure is compromised. Fixing the broken tab will require replacing that part and welding it.

Just take it back to the repair shop and be civil about it. You will make it worse if you sue them. Lost time and money for you and for them. Relax and let them handle the problem. Good luck!
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Old 01-09-2020, 05:26 PM #25
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Originally Posted by 4runherpow View Post
any recommendations in the DC/NOVA area for a really good, no bs fab/4x4 shop?

Thanks again for all of the help. Greatly appreciated
ChaosOffroad.com (Winchester, Va) the owner runs a Tacoma, the shop focuses on Heeps, etc.

BTW- they have a welding class this month, might want to look into that. ;)

I am out of Fairfax, where in NoVa are you?
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Old 01-22-2020, 09:34 PM #26
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Originally Posted by L8Shift View Post
ChaosOffroad.com (Winchester, Va) the owner runs a Tacoma, the shop focuses on Heeps, etc.

BTW- they have a welding class this month, might want to look into that. ;)

I am out of Fairfax, where in NoVa are you?
Awesome. Thank you!

I’m in Arlington. I wish I checked back in sooner unfortunately I missed that class.

Update:

At some point I’ll take her to see what another shop/welder thinks. The local shop that did the shotty work is not at the top of my list anymore as I have other items to work on and real work to do lol.

So I threw some rustolem on the exposed metal and called it a day. I’ll probably regret not proactively doing all the work now but it’s a pain and not sure I have time. On another note, she’s looking great and I’ve done a ton of service. Love being back in the 4th gens. Those v8s are amazing.

Off topic. Plus one vote for doing the trans fluid exchange using the cars pump method. Swapped out 16qts, cleaned the pan, and new filter. Shifts are superrrrr smooth now. Little tricky to get the right fluid level. I used the “warm hand” technique. When the trans pan was warm to the touch (not so hot as I couldn’t keep it on there but definitely very warm) that’s when I pulled the over flow plug. I had to fill a few times with .5 each time to get it right but I think it’s right now. Slow trickle out of overflow plug when pan is warm, right?

Thanks y’all.
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