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Old 01-06-2020, 01:49 PM #1
baker baker is offline
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V8 vibration full throttle after suspension refresh

2004 V8 with +250k miles and OME 2.5" lift with front level kit & diff lowering kit.

The lift has been in for nearly 4 years no issues.

Right before Thanksgiving I ordered parts to complete a full suspension refresh.
LCA (Beck/Arnley)
CV axles (Cardone HD)
Wheel bearings (B/A)
Tie rod ends
Sway bar bushings & end links
Rotors & calipers
UCA (SPC) location g.
ABS sensors& wires

Everything is new except knuckle & strut/springs.

After alignment, I'm getting a bad vibration only during hard acceleration from 0-40 mph. Only during throttle; not breaking or coasting. Turning has no real affect on it.

Replaced the CV axles 3 times, replaced the UCA twice (from Rocky Road Outfitters to the SPC), and replaced the wheel bearings twice. No change.

Had a local shop pull the rear drive shaft out, same vibration.

I'm thinking of pulling the front drive shaft.

Any thoughts?



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Old 01-06-2020, 01:55 PM #2
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Originally Posted by baker View Post
2004 V8 with +250k miles and OME 2.5" lift with front level kit & diff lowering kit.

The lift has been in for nearly 4 years no issues.

Right before Thanksgiving I ordered parts to complete a full suspension refresh.
LCA (Beck/Arnley)
CV axles (Cardone HD)
Wheel bearings (B/A)
Tie rod ends
Sway bar bushings & end links
Rotors & calipers
UCA (SPC) location g.
ABS sensors& wires

Everything is new except knuckle & strut/springs.

After alignment, I'm getting a bad vibration only during hard acceleration from 0-40 mph. Only during throttle; not breaking or coasting. Turning has no real affect on it.

Replaced the CV axles 3 times, replaced the UCA twice (from Rocky Road Outfitters to the SPC), and replaced the wheel bearings twice. No change.

Had a local shop pull the rear drive shaft out, same vibration.

I'm thinking of pulling the front drive shaft.

Any thoughts?



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Probably has nothing to do with it, but those caster #s are terrible. You want more like 4+. Also probably unrelated but maybe rotate tires and see if any change occurs.
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Old 01-06-2020, 02:40 PM #3
baker baker is offline
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Yeah, balance and rotated...

I went with the SPC UCA so I could go to a 0°

Here is the alignment with the first set of UCA installed...

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Last edited by baker; 01-06-2020 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 01-06-2020, 03:35 PM #4
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Originally Posted by baker View Post
Yeah, balance and rotated...

I went with the SPC UCA so I could go to a 0°

Here is the alignment with the first set of UCA installed...

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Just noticed you had a diff drop...a lot of people have complaints about those actually causing weird vibes. you may want to take it off and see if it goes away
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Old 01-06-2020, 03:42 PM #5
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Yeah, balance and rotated...

I went with the SPC UCA so I could go to a 0°

Here is the alignment with the first set of UCA installed...

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Also why would you want a 0 degree caster....thats no bueno. Camber is what you want at 0.

It is true that having low caster at the UCA is a good thing if you're worried about scrubbing the rear of the wheel liner area, but I would recommend at a minimum 3.5 degrees of caster. Most do this through the LCA by maxing out the adjustment all the way "forward".

YouTube

My recommendation is spot "C" on the SPCs and then max LCAs out as shown in video. Dial in the Camber up top via the SPC ball joint slide. Adjust toe as needed.

Driveability will be exponentially improved. Even if you think its "just fine" now
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Old 01-07-2020, 02:35 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Titanium_4RNR View Post
Also why would you want a 0 degree caster....thats no bueno. Camber is what you want at 0.

It is true that having low caster at the UCA is a good thing if you're worried about scrubbing the rear of the wheel liner area, but I would recommend at a minimum 3.5 degrees of caster. Most do this through the LCA by maxing out the adjustment all the way "forward".

YouTube

My recommendation is spot "C" on the SPCs and then max LCAs out as shown in video. Dial in the Camber up top via the SPC ball joint slide. Adjust toe as needed.

Driveability will be exponentially improved. Even if you think its "just fine" now
awesome video. I do get some rubbing in reverse on the front of the fender liner. hmm..


Also, could i have my outter CV nut too tight?
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Old 01-07-2020, 03:58 PM #7
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awesome video. I do get some rubbing in reverse on the front of the fender liner. hmm..


Also, could i have my outer CV nut too tight?
No I don't think that would cause it/be a possibility.
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