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Old 01-07-2020, 08:35 PM #1
doofenshmirtz doofenshmirtz is offline
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Question 2WD V8 U-Joint Replacement

So I’ve got some play in my u-joints at each end of the driveshaft. I think some “spirited driving” after doing a sea foam treatment may have weakened/loosened them mine also have no zerks, so I can’t grease them to see if that would help.

I have the 2WD drive V8, so I’ve got the driveshaft that slips into the transmission rather that one with bolted on flanges at each end, like I think the 4x4 does...

Can I avoid any fluid spills by removing the u-joint at the transmission end and leaving the yoke in the transmission? Or will it just slide out without anything holding it in place?
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Old 01-07-2020, 08:59 PM #2
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So a ChrisFix video mentioned having a pan ready for the slip-type driveshafts, but Iíve watched a 4runner video just slip the thing out with no regard for any fluids. Looking for any guidance while I keep researching.

Just donít want unexpected spills, lol. Iíve already dealt with surprise spills doing radiator hose replacements recently.
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Old 01-08-2020, 04:46 PM #3
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Having replaced several hundred u-joints over many years, my suggestion would be to expect some fluid loss, but usually not too much. I don't think there is any way to remove the u-joint from the drive shaft while leaving the yoke in the back of the trans. Another option is to come up with a plug that will fit over the output shaft of the trans and will be the same outside diameter as the yoke to seal it. I used to work in trans shop, and we usually had several different plastic plugs designed for this situation. Another possibility is getting a used yoke from a junk yard, and use it to plug the opening while replacing the u-joint. Also, depending on how you are planning on removing the drive shaft (on lift or jack stands) you might be able to raise the rear of the vehicle higher that the front, enough to minimize the fluid loss.
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Old 01-08-2020, 10:09 PM #4
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Trans rear seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by doofenshmirtz View Post
So Iíve got some play in my u-joints at each end of the driveshaft. I think some ďspirited drivingĒ after doing a sea foam treatment may have weakened/loosened them mine also have no zerks, so I canít grease them to see if that would help.

I have the 2WD drive V8, so Iíve got the driveshaft that slips into the transmission rather that one with bolted on flanges at each end, like I think the 4x4 does...

Can I avoid any fluid spills by removing the u-joint at the transmission end and leaving the yoke in the transmission? Or will it just slide out without anything holding it in place?
I have V6 2WD and it doesn't have zerk fittings either. I pulled a driveshaft out of the trans on a standard transmission Ford like that and when I put it back in it started to leak at the rear seal. I wonder if it would be a good idea to replace the rear seal while the driveshaft is out.
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Old 01-09-2020, 01:36 AM #5
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Though I have removed a lot of driveshafts and reinstalled them without any follow up leaks, it is possible that a seal could leak in a few cases. Once the driveshaft is removed, it isn't a big deal to install a new rear seal, if one has any experience with replacing these type of seals. A new seal shouldn't be that expensive, so replacing it would be a good idea, as long as you are comfortable with removing the old seal and installing a new one.
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Old 01-09-2020, 08:26 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWrench View Post
Though I have removed a lot of driveshafts and reinstalled them without any follow up leaks, it is possible that a seal could leak in a few cases. Once the driveshaft is removed, it isn't a big deal to install a new rear seal, if one has any experience with replacing these type of seals. A new seal shouldn't be that expensive, so replacing it would be a good idea, as long as you are comfortable with removing the old seal and installing a new one.
Thanks for all the insight! Iíve got a couple u-joints out for delivery to me, but hadnít considered replacing and seals until this came up.

Seems like every time I try to just just one thing, it ends up spiraling into a big project! Or at least one that tests my comfort level haha

I was really hoping there would be a way to press out the u-joints from under the car and leave the flange and slip yoke in place, but it doesnít look like Iím gonna have a good time if I try that.
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Old 01-11-2020, 11:07 PM #7
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Just to see this thread to its end, I did indeed get the front u-joint off without removing the slip yoke. I just rented the u-joint tool and lined it up where I could press out the caps. I did a bad job because I was learning as I went. I pushed the caps through too far and had a heck of a time getting them realigned to push them out.

What ended up working was pushing out one side without pushing the opposite side too far. When the one side wag out, I used a socket to fit over that side of the spider and inside the hole of the flange. This allowed me to turn the rented clamp tool around and press out the other sideís cap.

I did all that while under the car. I ended up doing a bad job installing the new u-joint up front and had to cry uncle. I had a needle fall down on one cap and the rumble was horrible. It had already taken 6 hours on a Friday night to get that far, so the next morning I limped it to a shop 3 miles away at 10mph with my flashers on. If I was to try again, Iíd be able to do it in a couple hours, and wouldnít need a shop. I had just had my fill of it.

They replaced the one I installed in the front with the one I intended to install in the back and then went out to get a new one for the rear. Everything is much improved with the new parts.
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Old 01-12-2020, 12:57 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doofenshmirtz View Post
Just to see this thread to its end, I did indeed get the front u-joint off without removing the slip yoke. I just rented the u-joint tool and lined it up where I could press out the caps. I did a bad job because I was learning as I went. I pushed the caps through too far and had a heck of a time getting them realigned to push them out.

What ended up working was pushing out one side without pushing the opposite side too far. When the one side wag out, I used a socket to fit over that side of the spider and inside the hole of the flange. This allowed me to turn the rented clamp tool around and press out the other side’s cap.

I did all that while under the car. I ended up doing a bad job installing the new u-joint up front and had to cry uncle. I had a needle fall down on one cap and the rumble was horrible. It had already taken 6 hours on a Friday night to get that far, so the next morning I limped it to a shop 3 miles away at 10mph with my flashers on. If I was to try again, I’d be able to do it in a couple hours, and wouldn’t need a shop. I had just had my fill of it.

They replaced the one I installed in the front with the one I intended to install in the back and then went out to get a new one for the rear. Everything is much improved with the new parts.
While I applaud your brave attempt to replace the u-joint without removing the driveshaft, I am not surprised it didn't go well. As i said earlier, I have replaced at least a couple hundred u-joints over the years, and found that removing the driveshaft and doing the u-joint removal/replacement on a bench with a good vise is the best way, IMHO, to get it done right the first time.

I hope you don't have any further issues with either the driveshaft or rear seal.
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