I dremeled away some of the shroud but it’s still kinda low so I just evened ‘em out. A little low still I think but maybe it’ll fix itself after the lift? Haha

i would cut up the adapter bracket a little bit, only use the top portion, but have it in front of the projector instead of the back, same with the bottom part, i wouldnt use the washer to space the projector back up to match the high beams, try it with no washer, it might not good matching the hi beams of stock at the wall, but its another story when driving.

You think it's low but it might actually be ok, how far are you from the garage and how tall is the cutoff? It's usually a 2-3" drop from the height of the projector centerline at 25 feet away. Also do those BRTs have a slightly bowed cutoff to the right or is the rotation off a little on the passenger side?

Interesting idea of using it in front of the projector instead of behind, not sure how that'd work but if it does it could give additional clearance. No washer was installed to the same general effect.

It was for sure not ok. Cranked up to the max, I drove to get some gas and I could see my cutoff in front of me...the reflections in the cars in front of me indicated my fogs were pointed higher than my low beams. They are bowed, but the passenger side is still slightly clocked still.





But...I did find an unconventional solution which I'll post soon.

So...in my infinite frustration - I did it guys. I finally went off the deep end.

The passenger side had way too much interference and I actually ended up stripping out another vertical adjuster tab. I literally said **** it, swapped out the adjuster tab and am running no shroud. Everything is now fully aimable and fully functional...but maybe it's not so fully fashionable.






Looks like a god damned Transformer now. But at least my beam pattern is nice...


Quick lineup on the garage and...


a little more adjustment at a nearby wall.

It's probably slightly high now and I need to get the horizontal aiming situated...but at this point I'm just happy to be able to SEE at night. The output is honestly amazing and I really love the color of these bulbs. I have some ideas on how to make them look more aesthetically pleasing down the road, but this will have to do for now...

Another curious tidbit - when I was restricted to a downward aim, my halogen high beam bulb was able to be actually plugged in because the clearance changed. Now that I have them properly adjusted - that clearance is gone. Something is wonky with this - I was considering just using led bulbs in this spot but I may be forced to use a threaded option like Profile HI-Lens LED or Morimoto Mini HB LED. Lightwerkz is running a sale...hmmm...

Thoughts? Comments? Bashing?

Do you know where the interference is? Maybe chop out the areas that hit then fiberglass it over to make it a semi custom outer shroud.
You have about 24 hours to decide, their sale ends tomorrow Given a choice I'd do Mini HB over the Profile, it's more of a true highbeam and doesn't have issues with the mounting shaft breaking. But the problem with shaft-mounting is the aim may still be off because you're relying on the angle/geometry of existing bulb hole. I'd shaft mount it first to see how vertical aim looks, rotation isn't really a concern because there's no cutoff like a lowbeam.

But if you do need a means to adjust height (independently of the main projector) leave them tightened down then push a pick, screwdriver, or drill bit through at least two of the mounting holes to scribe marks on the original reflector. Take the HB projector out and drill through those scribe marks, those holes will be your adjusters. You may have to enlarge the existing bulb hole too, then use the included sealer washer and shaft nut to seal the hole.

Actually if I'd have to mount a projector in the highbeam reflector I'd get a pair of Lightwerkz's blue-lens Super H1's to match the BRTs with Heart Ray bulbs and NHK ballasts.

Basically the whole top section of the shroud - it bangs up against the hole in the shroud when I adjust upwards and eventually strips the adjustment tab since it hits a physical limit (and I keep trying). It'd be a ton of hacking and would probably look more like crap tbh. Really strange issue that seems to be ME specific for whatever reason.

Well, I was thinking of buying some DD SS3 SAE/DOT Yellow Fogs (Sport) anyway - need to email 'em to see if they get me a DT to 9006 adapter (I'm too lazy for the pigtail stuff - I don't feel like splicing).

Aww man, you're scaring me with all the additional work - I can't tell how the high highs are even aimed right now because I can't even plug them in, but I'm assuming pretty damn high if it's messing with my plug clearance.

I'm attracted to the LED options because of the ease - to be honest, all my ballast/wiring is kinda hanging out via zip tie or just shoved somewhere temporarily and the thought of adding another HID ballast to the mix is kinda headache inducing. Cool idea on the leveling for the high beams though - but ugh it just seems like so much work. Maybe I should just leave the bulbs in there as dummies to seal the holes up and leave it alone.

You know the best part of all this? If I had left the washers in to aim them upwards - they'd probably aim up fine and the high beams would likely have clearance to be plugged in and work.

Update - been messing with the aiming and have them just about right now. Aiming them down some (they were a bit high) has given me clearance to plug in the stock high beam bulbs now, which is great. They're not too far off my bi-xenon high beam either. Now I can plug some LED bulbs in there...might go DD SL1s but they're pricey. Maybe next sale...

I'm very happy with the color/output of this setup - it's been raining a bit here lately and it's a night and day difference - this color temp really cuts though even the nasty misty rain quite well. The rain also revealed to me some significant water ingress on the driver's side headlight, so I did a re-seal on it last night - hopefully it's good now.

I'm also considering throwing a shroud over the projectors since I'm still running transformer mode. The side leakage from the space between the bulb and projector lens is kinda bright but not overly obnoxious. I'm guessing they'd just slide over the projector? Maybe I can wire up Panamera LED DRL 2.0 shrouds...although I may need the Profile Pixel Inserts to get the right color white I like. Also not sure how the DRL/switchback will play with my plans for LED signal bulbs...maybe if I remove/separate the DRL signal completely from the turn signal and wire it directly to the shroud DRL and leave the turn signal line alone and tap it for the switchback signal? In my mind this should work but I'm sure I'm forgetting something that would make this not work. Not really familiar with this stuff.


Anyway - sneak peak of what I'm gonna try to install tomorrow:





I'll make a thread about it once I'm successful.

You need 9005s right? I may be willing to sell/trade my spare slightly used pair of SL1s, was going to run them in my Tundra's fogs but I'll probably retro MH1's instead (want them to match the headlights color-wise)

Yup. I think they'd match decently enough with my lows.

The shrouds slide on and snap onto the projector. There are tabs on the shroud that snap into the 5 notches on the projector's lens holder. I'd still use a little JB Weld though.
You'll still get some light "bleed" since no D2S/G5 completely covers all the open areas of the projector, you can use aluminum tape to cover those areas.

Let me just make sure I understand what you want to do:
- Switchback halos for the shrouds
- Bypass DRL function at the original turn signals
- Halo's white LEDs will be the DRLs instead
- Halo's amber LEDs to flash with the existing turn signals

Yes it's been done successfully. Not on mine but I've shown someone how to do it on his 4th-gen

Yeah, it may or may not be worth it - I just considered it since I'm gonna have to shave the stock shrouds down regardless.

Yeah if I were to go this direction:
- Switchbacks are built into Panamera shrouds
- Bypass DRL signal from turn signal
- White LED DRL in shroud
- Amber LED turn signal in shroud + led turn signal in the stock location.

Not sure if it's worth the effort - might be better off trying of the methods that you and others mentioned on HJ to just enlarge the openings.

PM me if you wanna get rid of the SL1s - I'm getting conflicting info on whether or not they're brighter than my 9011 HIRs but I'd give 'em a shot.

I guess I was successful. Feels weird man.

Diode Dynamics Stage Series 3" SAE/DOT Yellow Sport LED Fog Pods Install

Weird because you didn't have issues aiming them? LOL

PS still waiting for Dan to get back to me about the bulb order, I didn't forget

Exactly! They didn't even hit the shroud! What do you mean I didn't have to bust out the dremel?

No problem bud, I replied to your PM.