Hello Everyone.

I recently noticed this last week a strong smell coming from the outside of my 4runner. I couldnt figure out what it was but now I think I have. I noticed today while braking my steering wheel was shaking slowing. I pulled over to make sure my lug nuts were tight and realized my front right caliper was radiating some serious heat, untouchable but the rim was still cool to the touch. The front left caliper was cold to the touch though, almost like it wasnt even doing anything. Is this a sign of a seized caliper?

Barring any debris stuck between the rotor and anything else, I'd agree with a stuck caliper.

Since it's vibrating you may want to turn the rotors as part of the job.

Yea I am going to take it off right now and verify. I would assume the wheel should freely rotate when brake is off so we will see.

100% stuck is a caliper. If you can do it yourself, there's little reason not to just get the new one and put it on while you've already removed the old.

NAPA has already-painted calipers with a lifetime warranty. Mine are going strong 2 years later.

Thanks for the feedback. I jacked up the car and the driver side tire rotates freely but the passenger side that was hot is 100% locked on. Tire wont budge at all/rotate. Caliper is froze on. Luckily I have a Napa a mile from house.

being in the rust belt 2007 sure gonna be a cal rust pin problem.
I rotate my tires and on all my vehicles I check the calipers for any wear off color and rust binding. .. if I do not like it I will drop the caliper check all the hardware and clean up all the rust road crap... I use silicone brake grease $$$ works great on the rubber seals and pins .. do not use any petroleum lubricants only silicone..
my 1996 GM sedan has the OEM factory calipers ..had to replace rotors they had rust blisters .

Ok, I replaced the caliper/rotor/and pad. I did not replace the pad on the driver side (good side) yet. Def fixed my fuel economy issue/hot issue but now the truck is pulling to the passenger side (where I replaced the caliper etc) when braking. Is this normal? I only took it about 8 miles so far but it seems consistent.

Brakes should be done in pairs, i.e. both fronts and or both rears, never should you do just one corner of the vehicle, the pulling issue could be from new pads on one side and old pads on the other, improper/incomplete bleeding of the replaced caliper, or both, install the new pads on the other side and check again to make sure you bled all the air out the side with the new caliper and make sure you bed in the new pads properly for them to work as they should and then the pulling should be gone...unless the other caliper is not applying the same force as the new one, I always replace calipers in pairs as well even if only one seems to be needing to be replaced, the same applies to rotors and as mentioned pads.

By replacing any parts of the brakes in pairs you're insuring equal performance of the brakes from side to side, front to back is important to be working properly but it doesn't need to be balanced/equal as does side to side functionality of the brakes to insure straight braking.

Yeah that’s going to be from the new rotor not being worn down while the old one is. The new rotor is getting grabbed sooner/firmer.

A new rotor and pads on the other side should resolve the issue.

Well I went to replace the pads on the other side and found that this caliper was also bad. The inner 2 pistons were seized and not applying pressure to the pad. After replacing this caliper and the pad/rotor truck is like brand new for braking. Feels really good, no pull anymore.