Not a T4R owner, but I'm working on that!
I seek your collective wisdom...

I found this smooth-running, smooth-shifting, impeccable, and seemingly-well-taken-care-of 2006 4Runner Limited V8 4wd. The catch, it needs tires (in the next year or so) and it has almost 264,000 miles on it. I haven't taken it to a shop to investigate yet, but that is my next step.

I tried to find a problem with this thing (other than mileage), but I couldn't. No exhaust leaks, nearly rust free, good brakes, solid suspension, tight front end, smoke-free exhaust, clean title, no smells, everything works. Well, not true, the headroom leaves one to desire more, but eh.

I don't, currently, commute, I work from home; so I won't be adding many miles.

I am replacing a 00 Grand Cherokee Laredo (116k mi), with death wobble that I nor a Jeep shop could cure, even with a basically new front-end suspension.

Ok, shoot...

If the timing belt has been done recently, you don't have anything to worry about. If it has not, then factor having that done or doing it yourself into the price.

Otherwise, 264k miles on that engine is nothing. The 2UZ V8 engine is proven to go 1 million miles in some old Tundra that Toyota bought back from the owner. I recently bought my 2003 Limited V8 with 280k miles on it. If it runs good and you like it and the price is right, buy it!

This^^^definitely check if the timing belt has been replaced recently, which should be done every 90,000 miles, so it's due for the 3rd replacement now if it hasn't been done!!

Also check that the 4WD system works flawlessly, when the 4WD system is not used/engaged about every month or so to properly lubricate the interior components the actuator for the transfer case can freeze up and not work and will need to be replaced or rebuilt which is not cheap, also check that the actuator and transfer case is not leaking, the seals can dry out from the same lack of use and with the same result/replacement or rebuilding, replacing and or rebuilding should only be done by someone who has done it before or you risk it still not working correctly, it's very tricky to get the actuator set correctly when reinstalling it.

One other thing I would check out that is not a common failure until it get a lot of miles on it is the master cylinder/brake booster system which can be surprisingly expensive to repair, how it works is there a little electric motor that powers the booster pump, there's also an accumulator that stores pressure that assist the master cylinder for proper braking power to the wheels, all of these items are attached to the master cylinder but can be replaced separately even though a Toyota dealer will tell you the entire assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of around $2000+ for the part plus labor, so all you need first is your ears and then brake pedal feel to know all is working as it should.

The following is how to tell everything is working as it should, after the vehicle has sat overnight get in the driver's seat, close the door, turn the ignition to the first position which is Accessory, if the stereo is on turn it off then turn the ignition to On, you should hear a slight buzzing sound seemingly coming from behind the instrument cluster, the sound should last around 10 to 15 seconds, this is the little electric motor running building up pressure, if you hear no sound it could mean the vehicle has ran recently and the pressure is already built up, in either case now depress the brake pedal 3 to 5 times until you hear the buzzing sound again and again only lasting 10 to 15 seconds, if all of this works as I have described then the motor/pump/accumulator are working as they should so far, if the noise from the motor is louder than a slight buzzing then the motor most likely needs to be replaced, if the motor runs longer than 15 seconds or activates with less than 3 depressions of the brake pedal then the accumulator and or pump may need to be replaced, usually it will be the accumulator, if everything seems to be OK then the next step is to drive it to make sure the brake pedal feel "normal", basically a full pedal and good braking action, if a good pedal but not good braking action then have the brakes pads, calipers/rotors checked out, which would be normal wear and tear maintenance and no more expensive than what you have paid on other vehicles in your past.

Other than that since you said frame rust isn't an issue, there's a lot of little things that may need attention but the above are the big ones I would be concerned with.

How much? Those V8s are pretty bulletproof but 264K is a lot of miles for any truck

$4600

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Timing belt, Doug Thorley headers, new tires, fluids.

You're good to go.

wow! 4600 for a well taken care of 06 V8 with no rust???



If the fluids look good and the engine isn't totally sludged up, get it before someone else does and figure the rest out later.



As a point of reference haven't seen one in that (supposed) shape for under 7 or 8k here in the DC metro area.

Edit: sorry if that’s a little over the top... I’ve been casually looking for another to use as a daily and finding really clean 06-09 4ths at a bargain has been frustrating. Good luck!

I picked up my 2003 V8 for $4700 with 280k on it. Newer ones were going to be $7-$8k in my area and many had similar miles. We don't have to worry about rust out here tho.

curious whyd youd run another 4runner for a daily? i was thinking of a daily along the lines of a toyota carolla haha but i have an easy commute. would have to make sure my tires on the carolla are good for northeast winters though. between upfront costs, insurance, repairs, etc. i feel like the ROI is still tough to pull the trig on. i have a 5 min commute so i will wait until the 4runner need more service or repairs before i go this route.

good luck btw

Well, I said "casually" looking ha

Sometimes I get the itch to go bigger, 35s etc... but don't think I'd be into using it as a daily after that. Problem is that I just love the 4ths and if I had a corolla or accord (insert whatever reliable modest sedan) I would hate driving it... so was thinking another 4th with like a Toytec lift and 255/75s. I doubt I'll go through with it.

OK, still haven't bit the bullet, actually waiting for my Jeep to sell. I hope it sells soon, before this thing is bought out from under me.

However, I got my first little scare last night; on the jeep forums (yes, I still hang out there, more on that later) someone else was making the move I am and was told it's all fun and games until you have to fork over the money for a 22hr head gasket repair... YIKES!! that's a huge amount of labor! But I'm wondering if they were talking about the V6?

The V8 actually looks simpler than the 6, heck it even looks like I can do my own timing belt repair, especially since I don't need to have it operational most of the time (I work from home).

Well, my plans are to buy the/a 4runner, or highlander, or sequoia, or tundra if my jeep sells before taxes come in; keep the jeep if it doesn't sell and just work on fixing it. I know, doesn't always make sense but as I mentioned above... a ride for me isn't a huge necessity; so saving money is king.

BTW, you guys haven't had anything bad to say about this potential purchase; it's been very interesting... nobody, on 2 toyota forums, as said to stay away from it! awesome!

Early 4.0 V6 had the head gasket issues from what I understand. Later ones are OK I believe.

The V8 doesn't have head gasket issues.

2007 was the first year of the V6 headgasket redesign. It’s very, very rare to hear of an ‘07+ with a headgasket issue. People are running these trucks to 300k-500k miles without a hiccup. The important things are simply to stay on top of your fluid changes (oil, trans, rear end).

Keep in mind, the ‘03-‘06 V6 headgasket didn’t affect everyone. There are many early V6’s with high mileage and without any regular loss of coolant.


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265k is pretty heavy bro!!!

id prob buy something with that mileage for a bit less than what you mentioned.

$3k - $3500

OP,

I wouldn't be scared off by the mileage at all. Your on the cusp being in Kentucky of the dreaded road salt depending on if it lived up north at all. I would just be more concerned with anything more than surface rust on the frame and body. As far as the mileage goes, like others have said its a 2UZ.... which is reliable as hell... When taken care of. Do your due diligence in inspection, if you aren't comfortable take it to a shop for a PPI for $75~ and they will tell you whats wrong with it.


Timing belt, Doug Thorley headers, new tires, fluids.... again as others have said. Those are really the only things you need to be concerned with. The cracked headers are a big thing outside of regular maintenance. I would also consider a Rutech bypass kit to elevate any potential issues with the IAP down the line... Slyfox has a kit as well. Other than that you should have a relatively "worry free" ownership. given you take care of it.

One last thing... It's a V8 4Runner, so others V6 guys will be jealous of you, but try and hide it by giving every reason why the V6 is superior.

Kidding aside its a good platform and I would buy it over and over if given the option.