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Old 02-14-2020, 11:22 PM #1
04SR54me 04SR54me is offline
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ABS motor bad

Where is the best place to buy just the motor ? Saw a YouTube video on replacement,but does not say where to buy a new one. Does it make sense to buy used? What year 4runner uses the same unit as a 2004.thx.
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:47 AM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04SR54me View Post
Where is the best place to buy just the motor ? Saw a YouTube video on replacement,but does not say where to buy a new one. Does it make sense to buy used? What year 4runner uses the same unit as a 2004.thx.
A new motor is extremely expensive if you can find one, a rebuild/refurbished motor is what most buy for 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a new motor.

This link is a rebuild service, you send them your motor and they rebuild it and send it back to you.

You may want to contact them and see if they have one they can send you and you pay a core charge and then you return your old motor to them for a refund.

Toyota 4 Runner 4705035010 ABS Motor Repair | Motor Repair & Rewinds | Eurton Electric

This link appears to be for buying a rebuilt motor outright, you may have to send them your old motor after getting the rebuilt motor, I didn't check into that far to know for sure.

4705060081 ABS Pump Repair Electric Motor 2003-2004 Toyota 4Runner / Lexus GX470 ABS Pump and Master Cylinder Motor - SmartMiles


There's also at least one seller or maybe a few on eBay that sells rebuilt motors as well and you do have to send them your old motor after they send you the rebuilt motor and they refund a core charge.
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Old 02-15-2020, 11:12 AM #3
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I grabbed a rebuilt of of eBay a couple years ago going strong still. I seem to remember that the same unit is used in a few different systems. Mainly the Mitsubishi Montero but don't take my word for it.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:05 PM #4
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I have a used one I purchased just in case that comes with the accumulator. Will also include a new O ring for the accumulator which seems to be a common problem. My son’s 4Runner had the pump that kept cycling on and off. Ended up being the accumulator. PM me if interested in purchasing.
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Old 02-18-2020, 10:04 AM #5
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Thanks for all the great info. I'm getting a diagnostic done on it to see exactly which part is bad. I would usually do this thing myself, but injured my hip and knee recently, so, that may not be doable. Removing the whole unit from the firewall with the 4 bolts under the dash doesn't look that tough and the install video on you tube looks pretty straight forward. But if I have to have a used or rebuilt one put in and it's bad, I eat the labor, May have my mechanic get it if I decide to bow out of this project. Thanks again.
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:46 PM #6
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abs update

Took my 4runner to a local shop to have diagnostics done on the ABs. recorded the sound it makes, played it for mechanic. Suggested, as it was suggested to me, to have the brakes bled. I also had some pulling to the left when braking, intermittant. I replaced the calipers, pads, rotors less than 15000 miles ago. He checks it out. Says there was some air in the line. Had the clip come off one of the caliper pieces, like a glide? Anyway, he replaces the clip. AFter this, the the weird sound is now gone, but the car still pulls left w hen braking hard. He says, may be a flex brake line. He changes it. Still pulls. and now, the 'vsc trac" and "trac off" lights are on. He rechecks the system , says it was set to original settings and that I need to drive it a bit to get it to shut off. If any problem, he will look at it further.
So, I drive 40 minutes around town, running errands, lights are on. Even the Trac Off switch does not shut it down. If I shut car off, start it up, lights are off. But after driving, they come on.
Any suggestions as to what might be going on relative to these warning lights still on? and the pull to the left? thanks!
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Old 02-21-2020, 08:26 PM #7
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Found this video, looks promising
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...1XD8I28h6p3ohp
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Old 02-22-2020, 10:47 AM #8
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pulling to any side while braking is usually a sign of stuck brake caliper piston, have that checked out.
for the vsc trac lights, get an abs capable scan tool to scan the car, and post the codes..
another possible theory might be that your truck needs a zero point calibration. its also a simple fix
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Old 03-13-2020, 05:17 PM #9
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I posted a question about a squealing in another thread that I am encountering and through some digging, I think it might be the same? I took a video of it when depressing the brake. Could someone verify if they have the same thing and then i will continue down the path of trying to find an ABS accumulator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onRasZ_XZy8


Thanks guys.

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Old 03-13-2020, 07:41 PM #10
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Originally Posted by RemyRunner View Post
I posted a question about a squealing in another thread that I am encountering and through some digging, I think it might be the same? I took a video of it when depressing the brake. Could someone verify if they have the same thing and then i will continue down the path of trying to find an ABS accumulator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onRasZ_XZy8


Thanks guys.
It's hard to tell from your video, but I'm guessing it's the electric motor part of the ABS/booster assembly that is making the noise not the accumulator which wouldn't make any noise.

How the booster system works is there's a small electric motor which powers a pump which builds up pressure which is stored in the accumulator, that pressure assists your foot pressure when braking thusly applying more pressure to the master cylinder than just your foot power could, the same pressure is also used by the ABS system when it activates.

Now that all being said this is what triggers the electric motor to power on, when the pressure drops to a certain level the motor comes on, normally it can be heard inside the vehicle seemingly coming from behind the instrument cluster but it's just a slight buzzing sound, it usually comes on when switching on the ignition after the vehicle has sat over night or for an extended time period and also after 3 to 4 depressions of the brake pedal, this is all normal, if you noticed you had to depress the brake pedal 3 to 4 times then you heard the squeal, again normal...except the squeal...what I think you're hearing it something is worn out within the motor and it starting to "drag", it could be the brushes, armature or a bearing.

The motor can be replaced without replacing the entire assembly, to get another motor read my post...#2... in this topic if you need to replace it.

Now you need to do a little more investigating, go to your local auto part store and buy a "mechanic's stethoscope" for about $10 or so, it looks just like a doctor's stethoscope except it has a long metal probe on the end used to touch areas when trying to pinpoint noises, then locate the electric motor on the master cylinder assembly, turn the ignition "on" but don't start the engine have someone depress the brake pedal several times until the motor kicks on while you are under the hood with the probe on the motor, you should hear the squeal loudly with the stethoscope if it's the motor, the electric motor/pump/accumulator assembly is on the passenger's side of the master cylinder at the back and underside.

I'll try and post a photo of the motor and pump assembly without the accumulator so you can see what it looks like, you can clearly see the wires coming out of the motor, the motor has a silver housing but your's is most likely has a black housing, the accumulator is a canister looking device that will screw into the plugged hole at the top left in the photo of the motor/pump assembly, I'll also post am exploded image of the entire master cylinder assembly, the motor/pump/accumulator is on the left.
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ABS motor bad-motor-pump-assembly-jpg  ABS motor bad-master-cylinder-assembly-jpg 
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Old 03-15-2020, 09:07 PM #11
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thanks for the tips, AUSeeker. I will give that a shot.
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