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Old 03-05-2020, 01:16 AM #1
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Fog Light Issue

Hey guys,

I've done a ton of searching, but can't come up with a solution or a similar scenario.

I installed an ARB bumper ~1.5 years ago, and decided against installing fogs at the time. I decided I needed a new mod, so I bought these on Amazon and they just arrived today. They plug directly into the OEM fog harness, but even with the truck on and both the headlights and fog light switches on, I get nothing from the new fogs. I tried plugging the fogs into the low light harness, and they work no problem. Is it possible that the fog harness is damaged/ruined since it hasn't been in use at all for the past 1.5 years?

Any ideas? I swapped the fog & AC relays to see if that was the issue, but same result.

Thank you!
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Old 03-05-2020, 01:30 AM #2
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Originally Posted by prule84 View Post
Hey guys,

I've done a ton of searching, but can't come up with a solution or a similar scenario.

I installed an ARB bumper ~1.5 years ago, and decided against installing fogs at the time. I decided I needed a new mod, so I bought these on Amazon and they just arrived today. They plug directly into the OEM fog harness, but even with the truck on and both the headlights and fog light switches on, I get nothing from the new fogs. I tried plugging the fogs into the low light harness, and they work no problem. Is it possible that the fog harness is damaged/ruined since it hasn't been in use at all for the past 1.5 years?

Any ideas? I swapped the fog & AC relays to see if that was the issue, but same result.

Thank you!
Check the polarity, it might be reversed.
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Old 03-05-2020, 01:41 AM #3
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Originally Posted by Drift Monkey View Post
Check the polarity, it might be reversed.

Okay, I will do that. If that were the issue, what would the proper resolution be?
[edit]
And actually, the fogs wouldn't work in the low light harness if the polarity was reversed right? So I wonder if it's something else.
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Last edited by prule84; 03-05-2020 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:00 AM #4
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Originally Posted by prule84 View Post
Okay, I will do that. If that were the issue, what would the proper resolution be?
[edit]
And actually, the fogs wouldn't work in the low light harness if the polarity was reversed right? So I wonder if it's something else.
Not sure what the wiring looks like but mine used a Deutsch DT adapter that I was able to open up and flip wires in the connector itself - if not, cutting the wires and re-wiring/soldering would also work.

It may or may not work there...depends on the polarity if the low beam harness wiring vs the fogs. You could also maybe check the fuse for the fogs?
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:09 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Monkey View Post
Not sure what the wiring looks like but mine used a Deutsch DT adapter that I was able to open up and flip wires in the connector itself - if not, cutting the wires and re-wiring/soldering would also work.

It may or may not work there...depends on the polarity if the low beam harness wiring vs the fogs. You could also maybe check the fuse for the fogs?
I didn't have a spare fog bulb to test, but I did use a lowlight bulb in the fog connector and that also didn't get any power. I'll check the fuse tomorrow.
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:14 AM #6
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I didn't have a spare fog bulb to test, but I did use a lowlight bulb in the fog connector and that also didn't get any power. I'll check the fuse tomorrow.
Makes me think there is no power coming through at all. A multimeter would confirm this, but I think you can squeeze a high beam bulb (9005 high beam vs 9006 fog) in there and see as well. Hopefully itís just the fuse.
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Old 03-06-2020, 12:53 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Monkey View Post
Makes me think there is no power coming through at all. A multimeter would confirm this, but I think you can squeeze a high beam bulb (9005 high beam vs 9006 fog) in there and see as well. Hopefully itís just the fuse.
Looks like it was indeed a blown fuse. Haven't had a chance to test the fogs with a new fuse yet, but my multimeter confirmed the fog fuse was blown.
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Old 03-06-2020, 01:28 AM #8
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Looks like it was indeed a blown fuse. Haven't had a chance to test the fogs with a new fuse yet, but my multimeter confirmed the fog fuse was blown.
Awesome! It's always the simplest things lol.
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Old 03-06-2020, 10:10 PM #9
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Awesome! It's always the simplest things lol.


Oh Iím sure something else unforeseen will happen before this mod is complete

Btw I was looking into retrofitting my headlights and have been reading through your threads. Any tips you can offer? Iíll be using my 05 OEM housings, so a little bit different. Why did you choose the G5-BRT over the G5-R or even the Morimoto? Why the Hylux 45W over the Morimoto?
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Old 03-06-2020, 11:48 PM #10
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Quote:
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Oh I’m sure something else unforeseen will happen before this mod is complete

Btw I was looking into retrofitting my headlights and have been reading through your threads. Any tips you can offer? I’ll be using my 05 OEM housings, so a little bit different. Why did you choose the G5-BRT over the G5-R or even the Morimoto? Why the Hylux 45W over the Morimoto?
Hylux costs less and has a very low failure rate compared to Morimoto...TRS even decided to have Hylux manufacture their latest ballasts.
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Old 03-07-2020, 12:08 AM #11
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Oh I’m sure something else unforeseen will happen before this mod is complete

Btw I was looking into retrofitting my headlights and have been reading through your threads. Any tips you can offer? I’ll be using my 05 OEM housings, so a little bit different. Why did you choose the G5-BRT over the G5-R or even the Morimoto? Why the Hylux 45W over the Morimoto?
05 pre-refresh you should go with the something threaded. I went BRT over R for the AR coating and a tiny bit extra output. I liked the G5 variants’ beam pattern over the Morimoto offerings. Hylux for the same reason Ed said, much lower failure rate.
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:11 AM #12
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Yup, easier to do a shaft-mount retro on pre-facelift 4th-gens.

H1-type projectors won't require opening up the bulb hole but I'd just use a hole saw or unibit (apparently the largest Harbor Freight one is almost perfect in size) to open it up and do a D2S type projector like G5-R or D2S 5.0, or even a MLED 2.0 (bi-LED)
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Old 03-07-2020, 04:17 PM #13
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Yup, easier to do a shaft-mount retro on pre-facelift 4th-gens.

H1-type projectors won't require opening up the bulb hole but I'd just use a hole saw or unibit (apparently the largest Harbor Freight one is almost perfect in size) to open it up and do a D2S type projector like G5-R or D2S 5.0, or even a MLED 2.0 (bi-LED)
This guy knows all about hole saws! LOL
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Old 03-11-2020, 01:25 PM #14
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Quote:
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05 pre-refresh you should go with the something threaded. I went BRT over R for the AR coating and a tiny bit extra output. I liked the G5 variantsí beam pattern over the Morimoto offerings. Hylux for the same reason Ed said, much lower failure rate.
Stupid question - what do you mean by something threaded? Would the Morimoto Mini D2S Stage III fit that criteria?
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Old 03-11-2020, 07:52 PM #15
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Stupid question - what do you mean by something threaded? Would the Morimoto Mini D2S Stage III fit that criteria?
A projector with a threaded mounting means you can secure the projector through the through the pre-existing hole in the back of the reflector.

The Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 kit or G5-R kit would both work for reflector housings.
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