Still trying to button up the timing chains and get the new oil pump completed. I went with the Cloyes chain and gear set. I've used Cloyes before and never had an issue. I usually stick with OE parts but this time I was thinking more short term. I would have spent well over $ 600 for the OE parts.
Now I'm paying the price and waiting. The left tensioner didn't align with the chain and the idler gear was missing parts.
I hope the replacement kit and the OE oil gear arrive today. I'd lke to get the timing cover and oil pan bolted up. Then its straight forward to install.


One big caution--- remember to install the coolant tubes and knock sensors before the head install. It's a painful lesson if you try to install after the heads are bolted up.

The jacked up tensioner and the idler gear

Attached Images

   

Cloyes said the idler gear assembly was redesigned after they had failures with the oil rings so I stayed OE.

Haven't posted in a while and the majority of the work is now behind me but the $$ keep flying out of my hands.

The rest of the assembly went well after buying another OE FIPG for the water port areas on the timing cover. For the initial start I did pull the EFI fuse and installed a gauge in place of the oil pressure sensor so I could see how quickly or not I had oil pumping. I did fill the passage from the oil filter down to the pump. I used non synthetic 5W-30 and Lucas break in oil additive.
Without the EFI fuse I cranked about 5 times and barely saw a pulse on the gauge. Tried another few cranks and then re-installed the fuse. It cranked a few times and fired right up and the gauge spiked up to ~ 60 psi.
I ran it for awhile topping off the water and checking for leaks, all good. It sounds very heathy and really responsive. The bummer, the jack wagons that sold this POS to my son reset the CEL and let him drive away thinking all was good. A short time later the CEL went on and they told him it was something simple with emissions and it wont effect how it runs, he bought it.
Well, the right side cats are both just shells and no guts.

Crazy expensive CARB cats for California trucks. So, I'll move on to other issues before I can actually get the cats replaced and get it back on the road but I at least know it runs.

Same here on both counts. I've used Cloyes timing sets in smallblock Chevy engine projects for over two decades without a single issue, including boat engines that run 4k-5k RPMs all day long.

But when I got Cloyes tensioners for my 4Runner during my early troubleshoot of P0016, I found they were packaged in Taiwan boxes inside Cloyes boxes. I also had a problem with my passenger side upper tensioner where the pad was offset and the main timing chain pins were bumping it causing a clicking noise. Removed and returned it to Rock Auto, and went with Toyota.

As a sidenote, I now see Aisin is selling timing components on Rock Auto including a ~$90 main chain. Aisin's reputation is solid in the Toyota space, I'd have no problem using it.

Lots have been completed, Finally running and went for a quick test ride. Good oil pressure and seems to run nice and smooth. One odd noise when Its first put in gear there's a bit of a rattling sounds. The good news it starts right up, good fast idle until it warms and then idles fine. I'll get a few other things cleaned up then its time to break this thing in.
The big bummer I need to replace the cats,big fn $$$.

I wouldn't bother with the rear cat...there is no 02 sensor behind it to monitor it, so it won't cause a CEL.

Thanks, I plan on starting with the front manifolds.

Thanks and you were absolutely correct. I found a set of Manifolds with the catalytic convertors manufactured in Canada. Installed this weekend and I am finally CEL free. So now its time to complete the engine break in. Running very good, strong, smooth and cool. So far about 250 miles.

Well bad news, The truck was running strong for about 1500 miles. Changed the oil from the break in oil to synthetic which I would have run from here on out. My son was driving and he said it starting losing power and he pulled off the freeway. Oil gushing and he found a nice long crack in the area of the block of #1cylinder.
No strange noises and after the oil change it sounded great. I'll get a better idea in the morning and then after teardown. I'm a bit shocked, no sounds, running strong. Just lost a few bucks and lots of hours.....never failed on an engine rebuild before.

a little more detail, the front of the oil pan has a crack. Something with the chain let loose?

Bizarre. Sorry to hear this, but I'm interested in your findings when you get the timing cover off and can see what failed. Any error codes stored? Might give some idea of what was happening just prior to shutdown.

edit: I'm guessing the aftermarket main chain broke, balled up at the crank sprocket, and pushed into the oil pan casting causing the crack.

I will check the codes when I can actually clear my eyes. I'm curious as well. That's a good guess. I would actually feel a little better if its something like that vs. a workmanship issue.

I've been following this and was very impressed with your effort. Can't believe this outcome, feel so bad for you. Especially if it's a faulty chain that would just be awful.
Good luck with the tear down. Maybe you can find a rebuilt short block but you'll still be out a lot more $$$

Thanks, it was a fun project until now. Oil pressure was excellent ~60 at start up and 20 warm, ran smooth and quiet and plenty of power. With 1500 miles I would have thought there would have been a sound or something leading up to the failure.
I hope to have my son start pulling it apart staring with the valve covers over the weekend.

Hopefully we have some good pictures shortly.