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Old 04-02-2020, 04:00 PM #16
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Originally Posted by cwilliams563 View Post
Sheesh..... I didn’t think replacing a bulb could be so complicated and finicky lol. Didn’t realise there were so many options, but after watching the video on headlight revolution I realised there are a couple lol.

I bought the Arcani headlights to replace my yellowed OEM and am running those now, I assume they’re the same kind of projectors? Amazon.com: ACANII - For 2006-2009 Toyota 4Runner 4 Runner Projector Headlights lamp Driver + Passenger Side 06-09: Automotive

So after so many years later, are the HID’s really that superior still? I’ll have to re-evaluate things then. Is it pretty normal for replacement headlight bulbs to last a year or much less? Seems like the LED’s are hit or miss for durability from what I’m reading now. Just tonight I saw 2 different vehicles that were LED headlights and were flickering on and off. Plus I think the fan humming would annoy me, my Subie doesn’t do that or have fans that hum.

Any other bulbs then that will last and be a brighter/whiter light? I read bad things about the Silverstars and that they don’t last.

I appreciate everybody’s response and experiences with theirs.
There are indeed several options haha, but the engineering behind the bulb makes a big difference between safe lighting and glaring everyone down the road. LEDs seem to give slightly better width but a slight penalty to distance vs. halogens from the research I've done.

Those look like H11 projectors still, yes.

HIDs are still superior in overall output at this moment yes - especially vs plug and play LEDs. I briefly considered a proper LED retrofit - much closer to HID retrofit output levels - but I didn't like the color temperature in the end. I run 4200k HID bulbs now.

Couple options here:

Diode Dynamics SL1 H11s - very well engineered for proper beam pattern/great heat dissipation but on the pricier end. ~5500k temperature. I run these in my high beams - some fan noise when they're on but it ain't that bad.

Modded H9 halogen bulbs.

Upgraded H11 halogen bulbs - Osram Nightbreaker Laser/Unlimited.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:48 PM #17
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Looks like a fair amount of people are running these successfully and Are very happy with them. They’re definitely cheap enough to try and I’ll probably give them a shot. Driving my Subie last night with factory LED’s and then jumping in the 4Runner with the “yellows” there’s a huge difference in light color. Seems like I get great distance though in the 4Runner.

Are you having any error messages or lights on the dash? Looks like some bulbs come with a decoder to stop this.

Plenty of great advice and referrals here, glad to have the experience on such a great site for a newbie with a lot of dumb questions lol. Thank you guys!

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Old 04-02-2020, 06:53 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Monkey View Post
There are indeed several options haha, but the engineering behind the bulb makes a big difference between safe lighting and glaring everyone down the road. LEDs seem to give slightly better width but a slight penalty to distance vs. halogens from the research I've done.

Those look like H11 projectors still, yes.

HIDs are still superior in overall output at this moment yes - especially vs plug and play LEDs. I briefly considered a proper LED retrofit - much closer to HID retrofit output levels - but I didn't like the color temperature in the end. I run 4200k HID bulbs now.

Couple options here:

Diode Dynamics SL1 H11s - very well engineered for proper beam pattern/great heat dissipation but on the pricier end. ~5500k temperature. I run these in my high beams - some fan noise when they're on but it ain't that bad.

Modded H9 halogen bulbs.

Upgraded H11 halogen bulbs - Osram Nightbreaker Laser/Unlimited.
Yes they are still the H11’s for the lows. The diode dynamics look nice but a little pricier, I’ll look into them more. Thanks again for the info and your experience.
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Old 04-03-2020, 02:07 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwilliams563 View Post
Been searching for days here and can’t find answer. Pretty much the retrofit threads come up but I don’t have interest in doing that. Really just want a plug and play That will be brighter/whiter. I have a 2019 Subaru with LED projectors and love the white light and their visibility. Night and day over my 4Runner.

Can anyone recommend some LED’s that will be a PnP and last? I’d like to replace both dims and brights, possibly fogs. I have a 2008 SR5 with projectors, they’re decent for stock but just so darned yellow.
My recommendation:
Amazon.com: BEAMTECH H11 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh H8 H9 CSP Chips Conversion Kit: Automotive

Best cheap LED headlight option. Great quality, direct plug in. Got these for my wife's 2010 Odyssey, and we both love them. I'm ordering a set for mine soon.
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Old 04-03-2020, 09:26 PM #20
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I have beamtech H11 for the lows and 9006 for the fogs. I like them the best because they keep the factory cutoff sharp but they’re almost a true white. They’re plenty bright but I need to get their highs sometime.

Plus they’re only $40 a kit
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Old 04-03-2020, 10:15 PM #21
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Would I need a Canbus error decoder/anti flicker for an 08 SR5 like one of these for my lights going with the LED's you all have mentioned here?

Amazon.com: Auxbeam H8/H11 LED Conversion Kit Error Free Wiring Harness Adapter: Automotive
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:15 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwilliams563 View Post
Would I need a Canbus error decoder/anti flicker for an 08 SR5 like one of these for my lights going with the LED's you all have mentioned here?



Amazon.com: Auxbeam H8/H11 LED Conversion Kit Error Free Wiring Harness Adapter: Automotive


You shouldn’t need it
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Old 04-06-2020, 03:47 PM #23
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Just go on VLEDS website and put in your model. Multi year warranty and good customer service. I replaced all mine when they ran a sale back in november and no problems at all. Easy plug and play, very high output and doesn't break the bank for the quality. There are cheap options on amazon but I enjoy not having to replace bulbs and also all the lights matching colors looks nice.
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Old 04-21-2020, 03:08 AM #24
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Just wanted to thank everybody for their input and information for my LED swap. I went with the F-S2 all the way around. Went with the lows and highs you reccomended here but the fogs were not available and had no date when they would be. So I just went with the F-S2 but had to get on Ebay
AUXBEAM 9006 LED Headlight 72W 8000LM Light Bulbs 6500K Super White Turbo Lamp K | eBay

Funny now that I look, the fogs you linked are available now.

In case someone sees this thread and ordered these lights I want to warn about some issues I had.

The H-11 lows fit right in and plugged in just fine, since it doesn’t have an O-Ring setup per say. The orientation is the same as stock bulbs with the cord on bottom.

For the 9005 highs, the orientation is 180* off and the cord sits at the top once in. The key would not go in to the channel and I wound up stripping the plastic portion that is attached to the light. It turns out that the O-Rings are just too big in diameter and will not fit in. No matter how hard I pushed forward. That’s how I wound up twisting the plastic loose from the light, it literally spun from the set screw. I was able to take the plastic off and carefully screw the set screw back in. I had to actually use the O-Rings from my factory bulbs to get them to push in. To twist them in I had to be careful since the plastic portion had already wallowed out the hole and used a screw driver end to twist the key portion inside the channel instead of twisting the light. It will probably just strip out if I ever have to try and remove it.

On the 9006 Fogs, the orientation is correct with the cord at the base. The first fog light I tried already was loose and the dang screw had already been stripped out of the Aluminum body from the factory. I had to take it apart so I could epoxy the plastic key portion on and slip the set screw in. I went ahead and did it on the other one as well even though that didn’t come pre-stripped lol. On these I also had to use the factory O-Rings as the ones they came with were just too dang big also. On the one that had the set screw NOT pre-stripped, it came with the wrong plug end and was completely different than the others. I had to cut a lot of plastic off to get it to slide down enough, it doesn’t have clips that snap in, it just kind of pressure fitted and may come loose after time.

All in all I definitely had problems and were a challenge that I had to learn as I went that I would rather not have dealt with. Not happy half the time messing with them but I am pretty happy with the end result. I know they’re Chinese made and horrible QC but you get what you pay for lol. I am happy with the color, super nice white light. My stock dim lights seemed brighter, the highs were definitely brighter than the new LED’s. My highs had great distance, just pretty yellowish. It seems to be a good compromise and happy with the overall outcome now. Had them all in in for about a week now.

One tip for all that may save a few minutes is when you plug them in, make sure the + and - symbols are to the outside. Since they’re polarity sensitive they have to be plugged in the correct way. I know it’s 50/50 odds, but with my luck it was more like 10/90, I just couldn’t get it right at first haha. At least going in to the fog lights I knew which way to plug them in.
Attached Images
LED headlight replacement bulbs-9b5794b5-269c-4a66-8a00-130e4905ecf3-jpg  LED headlight replacement bulbs-07428f5e-cda2-4d96-92ac-2e0a5dd482b3-jpg  LED headlight replacement bulbs-bc4a3495-61be-49b1-9cee-84123d74d6d1-jpg  LED headlight replacement bulbs-f41844a2-200b-423d-a24d-fa37b64aba97-jpeg  LED headlight replacement bulbs-77e5d8c5-9311-4684-9101-76c73fcf54f3-jpg  LED headlight replacement bulbs-5af7385c-37b3-4318-b26a-806c995afb6a-jpg 
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Old 04-21-2020, 09:15 AM #25
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Quote:
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My stock dim lights seemed brighter, the highs were definitely brighter than the new LED’s. My highs had great distance, just pretty yellowish. It seems to be a good compromise and happy with the overall outcome now. Had them all in in for about a week now.
I also used to run these lights in my Highs and Fogs, eventually got tired of the crappy light I was getting and switched things up. We have a bias towards foreground light which is why people say these things are so awesome when if you really study it, they're pretty awful.

Few links to what I did when I got tired of the auxbeam poor performance.

Went with some HIRs from for high beam: Amazon.com: Philips 9011B1 9011 Bulb: Automotive

These are WAY better than those crappy auxbeams. Much more focused beam pattern for better throw, and the warmer color reduces glare significantly.

Modding those to fit our housing: https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-91565...12_2267_311973

For fogs I went with: VOSLA 9006 +120 "Super Brite Light"

Fogs now have a defined cutoff and same benefits of the warmer light that the highs saw.
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Old 04-21-2020, 02:35 PM #26
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I also used to run these lights in my Highs and Fogs, eventually got tired of the crappy light I was getting and switched things up. We have a bias towards foreground light which is why people say these things are so awesome when if you really study it, they're pretty awful.

Few links to what I did when I got tired of the auxbeam poor performance.

Went with some HIRs from for high beam: Amazon.com: Philips 9011B1 9011 Bulb: Automotive

These are WAY better than those crappy auxbeams. Much more focused beam pattern for better throw, and the warmer color reduces glare significantly.

Modding those to fit our housing: https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-91565...12_2267_311973

For fogs I went with: VOSLA 9006 +120 "Super Brite Light"

Fogs now have a defined cutoff and same benefits of the warmer light that the highs saw.
I don't think the Auxbeams have quite the same diode placement and thinness between diodes as the excellently engineered SL1s. IIRC, even modded H9 halogens in the lows have better throw/less foreground than the cheap LEDs.

I'm retro'd in my low beams (bi-xenon), but I do have SL1s in my high beam bowls and they did actually do a bit better than the HIRs I had in there before, I'm really impressed.

I replaced my fogs with Diode Dynamics SS3 Sports (in yellow) and they blow away any plug and play solution out there - SO much width!
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Old 04-21-2020, 06:27 PM #27
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I don't think the Auxbeams have quite the same diode placement and thinness between diodes as the excellently engineered SL1s. IIRC, even modded H9 halogens in the lows have better throw/less foreground than the cheap LEDs.

I'm retro'd in my low beams (bi-xenon), but I do have SL1s in my high beam bowls and they did actually do a bit better than the HIRs I had in there before, I'm really impressed.

I replaced my fogs with Diode Dynamics SS3 Sports (in yellow) and they blow away any plug and play solution out there - SO much width!
You are correct about the placement and thinness of the Aux Beam. They don’t duplicate the thin filament as factory, they have a wider and double row of LED’s. That was the first thing I noticed once I got them out of the box. They were cheap enough so it’s no biggie. I love to tinker and always willing to improve.

I’ll continue to consider others and have been considering the yellow for the fogs.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:49 PM #28
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I put the Fahren LEDs on my 4th gen and couldn't be happier. Seems like they reach further and wider, and everything is brighter without blinding oncoming traffic. On Amazon they're about $30, plug and play.

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

I also bought a set of these about a month ago for my 2005 and I agree. They seem to work fine in the OEM reflector housings and I haven’t had any issues with people flashing their hi beams at me. The companion Fahren high beams are also quite bright.
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:08 AM #29
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Have you not yet encountered an oncoming vehicle with LED headlights that blind the shit out of you?

Do you wanna be that douche?

Get on a headlight forum and ask
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Old 05-21-2020, 10:57 AM #30
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LED headlights always stand out in oncoming traffic, even when stock. The OEM resistance bulbs are dimmer and have such a low K value that it’s more that the contrast to LEDs is the factor in annoying other drivers. Two people have provided comments on the Fahren LEDs. If you don’t believe us, that’s your prerogative. You’ll get no argument from me that converting to projector headlights is an all around better option but it’s not like that approach doesn’t have major drawbacks.
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