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Intro
Hello All, I recently replaced the drivers rear door lock actuator on my 2005 sr5 and took some pictures along the way. While doing my research, I encountered others that had multiple actuator failures, this one appears to have lasted all 205k. I am not the original owner, but it didn't look like anyone else had been in that door, so I assume its original. I've been riding around and unlocking manually from the drivers door, and its honestly terrible.

This is the first real write-up I have done, so feel free to leave comments on picture size, quantity, description clarity, etc

Update 1/19/20:
My Passenger rear lock actuator was having trouble, so I replaced this one as well and have added some better pictures I grabbed from doing this the second time around

Step Directory (Links Jump in Thread)

• Parts and Tools
• Step 1: Remove Cover Behind Handle
• Step 2: Remove Armrest
• Step 3: Remove the Door Card
• Step 4: Unplug Everything
• Step 5: Remove the Old Actuator
• Step 6: Hardware Transfer
• Step 7: Reassembly

Parts | Return to Directory
I really wanted to salvage from a junkyard because I've never been junkin before. After hearing about other failures, I decided new or reconditioned was going to be best. I got a reconditioned actuator on ebay from the seller actuatorplus. Hopefully the links should be clickable. Eventually the ad will expire, but the seller should still be there. Parts are supposedly reconditioned with Toyota parts and have a lifetime warranty, just have to send in the core. I did pay for the part with my own money, this isn't a sponsorship or anything like that, but I did send the seller the write-up to share with others taking on this project.

This is what the part looks like:


Tools | Return to Steps

• Safety Glasses
• Small Flat Head Screwdriver or pick set
• Philips Head Screwdriver
• Torx T-30 Bit
• Panel Clip Pliers

Step 1: Remove Cover Behind Handle | Return to Directory
This small plate behind the handle is removable and hides 1 of 2 screws that hold the door card on. I have this small, flathead screwdriver that I used to get in there.


I always find it helpful to see the tab locations behind panels, so I have tried to get pictures of of them. Hopefully the orientation of the part makes sense, its as if opened like a book. Under this panel, there is a screw by the lock switch, remove it and save it. I kept all mine in the cup holder.


Step 2: Remove Armrest | Return to Directory
The second screw is under the armrest. To remove the armrest, pull up by the handle. This is the technique I used:


Again, here are the tab locations


Once the armrest is removed, there is another screw by the handle. Remove it and keep with others, this is the last screw holding on the door card


Step 3: Remove the Door Card | Return to Directory
By some miracle, I didn't break a single panel clip during this process. I had initially tried removing with hands, but I remembered I had panel clip pliers that I got from Harbor Freight: Panel Clip Pliers

I started at the bottom of the door, using my hand to pry up the plastic enough to get the pliers in there. I tried to pull where I thought a panel clip could be, based on how tight the card was to the metal door. Once the pliers were seated underneath, a quick squeeze got the clip freed


Here are the clip locations for my passenger rear door


Once all the clips are removed, the top of the card will still be seated around the window, and the bottom will be freed. The top section has a sort of U shape that hooks in by the window, to remove simply pull up.


Step 4: Unplug Everything | Return to Directory
Once the card is unseated all around, there are a few wires connecting to the window buttons, door light, and the lock actuator cables. My recommendation is to remove the lock cables first first, as they make maneuvering the door card harder while still installed. To remove, first unseat the cable holders from the molded plastic. Then rotate until the wire lines up with its removal slot and pull the cable out.


Next, unplug all the connectors. On the driver rear, I only had the window button and door pocket light to unplug, but different doors or trim levels may have more. For reference, here are the plugs for the door light and window button.


Step 5: Remove the Old Actuator | Return to Directory
So once the door card and all connections have been separated, you will be left with the metal door. There is a plastic moisture barrier that is glued all around. I was worried to remove this, since I didn't think to get any construction adhesive to reseal this. Thankfully, it was so tacky that it was able to be restuck when done, without any extra adhesive.


There are 3 T30 torx bolts holding the actuator in place. They are on the edge of the door, near the lock opening. I used the little tool with a bunch of fold out wrenches, and it worked well.


Now wrestle the actuator out of the hole in the door. I would recommend pulling the actuator out of its cavity while pushing the cables down in the plastic moisture barrier, then rotate the actuator around the window guides, and pull it out along with the cables.

Step 6: Hardware Transfer | Return to Directory
The new lock actuator did not come with any of the control cables, so they needed to be transferred. I started with the yellow connector, there was a plastic cover on the end of the cable, so it was removed and flipped up, then the cable was removed. There was only one clip holding this piece in and it came up pulling with hands. Open the cover the same way on new one and transfer cable.


Next was the blue connector. The cover of this was the most difficult part of the entire process. On my first actuator, I messed this up and broke the clips on my new actuator, but when I came back to do the passenger side, I was more prepared to do this right. There is a plastic hinge and 3 clips securing the cover lid, one clip on the top and two on the bottom

For the first top clip, I inserted a screwdriver and rotated towards the bottom of the actuator. Its hard to show this and take a picture at the same time, so hopefully this makes sense. Hopefully you can see the screwdriver is rotated towards the left of the picture to pop the clip


The onto the two bottom clips. I used the screwdriver to hold the gap open enough to get a pick in there and pull the clip from the top cover away from the hook. This was even harder to get a picture of, so be sure to take a close look at how the clips interface and the proper direction to pick at.


These close up pictures may help to see the clip locations and how it fits together. This way you will know which way to pick in order to remove safely




And if all else fails, you can still pop it off like a barbarian with the potential to rip the hinger. I did it this way the first time, and the 3 clips are enough to hold it all together without the hinge.


Step 7: Reassembly | Return to Directory
Reassembly goes much quicker, since I now knew how everything came apart. I also didn't have to worry about breaking anything like panel clips, since its going back together. I'm gonna reuse the pics in the reassembly part, but will make them smaller just as guides to help along the way and keep from scrolling back up to see everything

Put actuator back in and feed cables through. On reassembly, do note that there is a plastic arm that has to sit on top of a metal tab on the back of the actuator. This is looking through the hole in the lock actuator, it needs to saddle the actuator pin. Also note the left and right pics here come from opposite doors when I updates the pics, so I apologize if its confusing to visualize.


Screw in actuator, make sure the foam sealing stuff gets compressed and bolts are tight, maybe even want to blue loctite them. Also reattach the plastic moisture barrier with either the existing stuff if its tacky or new adhesive


Plug in the actuator, then hold door card up to plug in all connections on the door card. Do the wires first, then the actuator cables. Much easier this way, as the cables are fairly rigid.


The white cable for the lock switch does have some adjustment in how it can be mounted on the ribs. I have mine mounted, so that in the lock position, the switch has the least amount of play. I chose to do it this way, so at a glance, there is no question that its locked. There is a slight amount of wiggle in unlock, but its not really a problem.


Sit the Door card on the window first, then push down to seat it. After that, push in all the panel clips to get the door card secured to the door.


Put the screws back in by the armrest and the unlock lever. Then reattach the armrest and plastic cover near the unlock lever



Congratulations!
Congrats, you successfully replaced your door lock actuator! Hopefully this helps someone at some point. I know this isn't too common of an issue, but could be beneficial for someone starting out on repair. It is definitely a fairly simple and straight-forward project that could save you a bunch of money. If you tackle this project, please post some pictures of your progress!

Awesome write-up, very detailed!

Digging up my very first writeup! Unfortunately I'm having trouble with the Passenger Side Rear Actuator, so I ordered another one from @Actuators Plus since I was satisfied with the one I ordered for my other door. Seems the cold is what kills these, my Driver Side Rear Actuator that I replaced in this writeup died about the same time last year. Its pretty annoying to manually unlock the door, and now that its the passenger side, its would be even more of a pain to do manually than the driver side.

I'll try and grab more pictures to update some of the pictures I'm not satisfied with.

Another Lock Actuator Install!
I got the passenger rear lock actuator installed this weekend and took pics to update the writeup with anything I missed from before. I hit the picture cap on both of the posts, so hopefully I covered everything. I'll dump and extra photos here from the install for some supplemental reading

My Original on left and Refurbished on right. This refurbished one was a little more beat up than the first one I got for the other side, but it all works fine and is covered up




Pick to remove handle cover instead of the screwdriver


May want to put something soft on the back of the panel clip pliers, I sprayed it with some black really quickly since its covered up and won't see it


Got a pic of the clip locations for the door card


The pin that needs to go into the plastic arm. Had to use something in the background for contrast. In the spirit of 2020/1, I had a mask in my car


Managed to drop that little foam ring (from around the lock actuator plug) down into the door. Quite an interesting endeavor to get that out!

Door Lock Actuator #3 (Driver Front)
Here are some pictures from this install. I'll update the main posts to include information specific to the front door actuators
--

Welp, seems the original bad bois are failing on me once per year lol. Thankfully I now have 3 out of 4 replaced haha. This time the driver front actuator. Was easy enough to just use the key in the hole for a while, but that got old eventually. When it warmed up beyond plastic breaking weather, I dug into replace this one.

Ordered from the same seller @Actuators Plus on eBay. Here is the Driver front: Toyota 4Runner OEM Front Left Door Lock Actuator 2003-2009 **LIFETIME WARRANTY** | eBay

There are few differences in the driver front because it has the key slot, and at first I was having a hard time, but the "key" (pardon the pun) is to remove the lock cylinder.



This little guy has to come off on the front door


pop out this extra clip the rear doors don't have


these covers come off just like the rear doors and there is one screw behind each (These are pics from rear door, but same thing)


Then the door card comes off bibbidi bobbidi and the actuator can come out. Door card comes off just like the other doors.

Where is gets tricky is the front door has the keyhole. I struggled to get this piece out because I thought It would just slide out based on the plastic cutouts on the actuator. In reality, the lock cylinder needs to come out, but it was actually really easy. So you should remove the key cylinder before trying to even get the actuator out.

Interface for the key. This little cutout in the plastic on the actuator is why I thought the actuator could go in without removing the cylinder. Way easier to just remove


To remove lock cylinder, this little cap comes off and there is a lil torx screw behind it to take out. The the lock comes right out




the to get the actuator out, I peeled back the moisture barrier from the butyl. If you do it carefully, the butyl will just stick back to itself. for the front door, removing this bracket that holds the window track made it much easier to come out. Wasn't required on the rear doors, so I fought it a bit before wisening up. Once that bracket is loosened, I zip tied it out of the way through where the window comes through the door


Also, unlike the rear doors, the front handle connects to the actuator with a little rod that goes through a hole on a small arm. whereas the rear doors have a plastic arm that sits on a pin

front door


rear door for comparison


Lining that little rod through the hole was a bit difficult and I fought with the key/lock cylinder for a while on reassembly, but after pulling that out, it was easy peasy to get back together

i like these pictures, it should help me out in the near future since my door are fully sealed up with dynamat.

Hi everyone, I salvage actuator but cant for the life of me wrestle it back in. I know you have to get that pin in but I cant seem. to angle the actuator around the strut that run vertically up the door. Any tips?

Which door is it?

Driver front?
Passenger front?
Drive/pass Rear?

They're each a little different, so if I know which one, I can help you better

definitive! sticky?

Regarding the front driver side actuator, were there any additional tools or torx sizes needed that were different than your original write up, or was the torx bolt for the lock cylynder removal also T-30?