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Old 04-14-2020, 11:42 PM #1
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240k miles. Somethings gotta give...

It has GOT to be time for some preemptive part replacements. I have done a ton of research but any input would be greatly appreciated.

wheel bearings

ball joints

tie rod ends

end links

bushings... this is my big question... sway bars, and uca and lca of course... what else would you guys recommend?

Thanks fella’s! I really have been doing a ton of research. I feel fortunate that I have never had a anything break (knock on wood). I’ve done my best to keep maintenance up. I’m looking into suspension upgrades and want to get everything I can done all at the same time.
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Old 04-15-2020, 10:48 AM #2
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Have you done the fluids?

1. differentials/transfer case.

2. transmission.

3. radiator coolant.

4. power srteering fluid (probably uses dex three tranny fluid).
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Old 04-15-2020, 10:53 AM #3
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You could also do,

1. Idler pulleys & belt

2. Thermostat

3. Sway bar bushings.

4. Fuel cap

5. How are your A/C servo's ?
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Old 04-15-2020, 11:16 AM #4
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In the same boat sitting at 215k. I definitely can second what everyone else has said, they're all very good recommendations. Some other things I've done include:

- Replacing the PCV valve

- Replacing vacuum lines with thick-walled silicone lines

- Throttle body + MAF sensor cleaning

- Magnetic drain plugs for oil pan + transfer case (Gold Plug)
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Old 04-15-2020, 02:44 PM #5
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Sweet. Sure appreciate the suggestions!

I’ve kept up on the maintenance pretty well I think, but am probably due for all of that again. The ATF exchange that I learned about here was awesome.

Thanks Seasparrow for the idler pulleys and thermostat. Those are still original. A/C servo’s? What’s that all about? Only thing I’ve had done was a refrigerant recharge this last year. Also, I’ve been through several gas caps lol. Piss poor design.

And bogrun, did you have a vacuum leak? Those can be a PITA! Thanks for the throttle body/ MAF reminder. And I sure like the magnetic plug idea.
Thanks for the input fellas!
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Old 04-15-2020, 04:04 PM #6
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Careful when you go looking for trouble, because sometimes you might find more than you wanted.

I'll focus on the fluids and general normal maintenance... most mechanical things like wheel bearings ill leave it be unless it actually needs attention.
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Old 04-15-2020, 04:13 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogrun View Post
In the same boat sitting at 215k. I definitely can second what everyone else has said, they're all very good recommendations. Some other things I've done include:

- Replacing the PCV valve

- Replacing vacuum lines with thick-walled silicone lines

- Throttle body + MAF sensor cleaning

- Magnetic drain plugs for oil pan + transfer case (Gold Plug)
Do you have a recommendation for where to buy the thick-walled silicone lines?
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Old 04-15-2020, 04:28 PM #8
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I'll second @Bumbo . I've found my fair share of trouble (plus more) by being overzealous in maintenance.

Wheel bearings will tell you when they're going. It ain't cheap, and it ain't fun. Fronts aren't bad, but rears are the devil. The shop I took mine to joked that they'd be turning that business away or quoting the I-don't-want-to-do-it price in the future after doing mine lol. They had to buy a tool to press the rears on over/around the axle shaft.

My biggest failing on my $runner was Rubber stuff. Practically everything rubber under my car has been replaced except body mounts and front engine mounts. Lower control arms are likely going by now. If it's not the ball joint, it'll be the bushings.
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Old 04-15-2020, 05:13 PM #9
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Ya, the wheel bearings still feel good with the truck jacked up. I’ll try to chill lol. Got cabin/quarantine fever. I appreciate the heads up on the rears. Good incentive to keep up on diff oil changes.

I did replace all the upper body mount bushings recently when I did a 1” body lift. I bet that added an extra 1/4” to 1/2” because the old ones were pretty shot.

doofenshmirtz ... do you have a list of other bushings that you’ve done? I’ve been having a tough time getting a comprehensive list together.
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Old 04-15-2020, 06:06 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpope09 View Post
Do you have a recommendation for where to buy the thick-walled silicone lines?
Totally! I got my kit from Silicone Intakes (.com) search for their "Engine Dress Kit" and you'll see three color options (black, red, blue). The kit comes with 4 different diameter of hoses and they're seriously good quality. The engine kit is $30 and is definitely enough for all the main vacuum lines on the 1GR-FE. YMMV on the V8 but they also sell a "Shop Kit" that gives you more hose for $50.

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Old 04-15-2020, 06:48 PM #11
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If it ain't broke....

That old saying is valuable advice. But, I understand the desire to head off problems. I'd go with all the fluids for sure if you have any questions.

Thanks for the post about silicone vacuum lines. I'll be looking into that.

On the rear wheel bearings: I've been watching and dreading those. No issues yet, I'm at 225k, but I had to do my fronts a little early so I decided to add to my tool complement in anticipation of the rears. I got a 20 ton press from horror freight, which I've found uses for inn the mean time. And I found a cool rear bearing press tool on eBay. I'll try to find a link. It's a guy who is a machinist I think and had to help his son change his rear wheel bearings ( either a 4runner or Tacoma, can't remember). He designed a tool to press it off and has an adapter for the 4th gens with the offset bolt pattern. I opted for the "weld it yourself" kit to save money and allow me to use my welder.
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Old 04-15-2020, 07:08 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogrun View Post
Totally! I got my kit from Silicone Intakes (.com) search for their "Engine Dress Kit" and you'll see three color options (black, red, blue). The kit comes with 4 different diameter of hoses and they're seriously good quality. The engine kit is $30 and is definitely enough for all the main vacuum lines on the 1GR-FE. YMMV on the V8 but they also sell a "Shop Kit" that gives you more hose for $50.

Looks like they're sold out right now. Signed up for the waitlist notification. Thanks for the info!
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Old 04-16-2020, 01:55 AM #13
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This is such a "Toyota" thread. Nothing wrong at 240k and 13yrs old. I love it.

That being said, I say just keep doing what you're doing (basic maintenance) until you really need to do more.
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Old 04-16-2020, 08:45 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hessian View Post
Ya, the wheel bearings still feel good with the truck jacked up. I’ll try to chill lol. Got cabin/quarantine fever. I appreciate the heads up on the rears. Good incentive to keep up on diff oil changes.

I did replace all the upper body mount bushings recently when I did a 1” body lift. I bet that added an extra 1/4” to 1/2” because the old ones were pretty shot.

doofenshmirtz ... do you have a list of other bushings that you’ve done? I’ve been having a tough time getting a comprehensive list together.
Most of the bushings are on the suspension bits. I've swapped every piece of my suspension except my panhard bar. That'll include:
front upper control arms
front lower control arms
rear upper control arms
rear lower control arms
front (anti)sway bar bushings
rear (anti)sway bar bushings (these have bushings at the axle mount points and on the end links)
rear shock mounts

Beyond those, you've got
Engine mounts
Transmission mount (nearest the driveshaft, and Toyota actually calls this a rear engine mount or something)
Body mounts
I'm sure there's some I've missed, too

At the end of the day, there's not many bushings that you can replace without some decent headache of pressing out the old ones - and then you're putting a lot of effort into a part that you could more easily replace altogether.. but quarantine affords some time I guess.

My suspension was absolutely spent when I bought the 4runner, so I just redid the whole thing over time. Still want to swap in different shocks for the rear at least, since I'm not happy with the ones I got. (They're fine, just not right for my usage.)
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Old 05-10-2020, 03:36 PM #15
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You guys were right about getting too far ahead of maintenance lol. I changed out water pump, thermostat, v belt, tensioner, all idler wheels, radiator hoses, and fan clutch. Worst thing I found was idler bearing a little noisy.

I did figure out a little trick for radiator flush though. Drained everything from block and radiator. I stole the idea of busting the thermostat out of the housing and reinstalling (I forget from who but thanks!). Then I popped the heater core hoses from the firewall and shop vac’d each direction. I then filled the system with distilled water and let it run for a bit and then did it again.

I got all 10.4 quarts of new coolant back in it that the manual says it holds.
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