Recently I purchased and installed the Eibach Pro-Truck kit. This is basically the review I wished I had been able to find before I bought them.

TL;DR: This is a great lift kit which straddles the edge between a "mild" and "serious" lift.

EDIT: after about 4,000 miles including 3 big trips, one of the front shocks failed. Top dust cover came out, and then it started leaking oil from the top of the shock. Good news is, Eibach's warranty was great. One phone call, described the problem, and they shipped me a new shock free of charge. No idea if this is a typical failure, but I'm inclined to chalk it up to "made on a Monday" if there are no more issues.

Pictures:
Before: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
After: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
After with Tires: Eibach Pro-Truck Lift with 255/80/17s and FJ Wheels! Loving the look. - Imgur

Specs: I put the lift on using the minimum settings. That means I theoretically got 2.75" of lift in front and 1" in the back. To my eye, the front number is pretty close to accurate, but the rear was more lift that advertised. That probably says more about the state of my old equipment though.

Final actual measured ground clearances with 33.1" tires were 10.5" at the stock skid and diff, 12" at the gas tank, and 16" at the frame.

Alignment: I did NOT replace my UCA's, and consequently got 2 degrees of caster. This was not a great alignment shop, so you might or might not do better (my steering wheel was at a 10 degree angle when they finished. Easy fix, but still its the most instantly noticeable part of an alignment). 2 degrees is not in spec, but is enough that driving on the interstate doesn't feel hairy. That said, I wouldn't go below 2 degrees of caster. Everything else got in spec.

Stance: When all is said and done, the rear will be a little higher than the front. Not a ton, but definitely has some rake on the lowest setting. This is what I wanted, so I was happy.

Tires: I was able to fit 255/80/17s on FJ Cruiser wheels with no rubbing while wheeling. I removed all the mudflaps, and pulled the fender liners forward. Took a second try on the passenger side. I *might* have rubbed slightly on the driver side fender when going fast, downhill, while turning slightly to the right. I did not do the body mount chop, and have seen no evidence of hitting body mount with this combo.

I would urge caution on going bigger tires on the stock wheels with this setup though. With the limited wheels, which have 5mm more offset than the stock wheels, I was not going to clear the UCA's with larger tire. I think you need 5th gen wheels, FJ cruiser wheels, or some other 15mm backspaced wheel to make this happen, but I do not know that.

Impressions: This is a really well designed kit. On road its slightly firmer, but still retains a lot of the plushness of the stock ride. Of course, since I then slapped E range tires on it that went out the window pretty quick... but even then, it is not bouncy in the least. I feel small cracks in the road because of the heavy tires, but the bumps are not a big deal.

Off road, its monotube shocks. Before putting on the heavy duty tires, I took it off road and the difference in handling was night and day. Its much more controlled and planted than stock, but without any bounciness. I was originally going to go OME, but when I found out about the harsh rear springs, that went out the window. This kit rides great in both the front seat and the rear.

Last Thoughts: I would recommend this kit for anyone that wants to maximize tire size without doing a body mount chop. If you are willing to do the BMC and go big or go home, this is not the kit for you. Go Dobinsons or King or Icon. If like me, that is off the table, this is a fantastic kit. It really does maximize your capability while retaining as many OEM parts as possible.

What are your hub to fender measurements? Still got any driver's side lean?

Great looking lift! That’s the perfect amount of rake. The advertised 1” rear lift was a turnoff for me but it looks much higher than that. Any before measurements?

Current measurements are:
Front driver: 35.5
Front Passenger: 36.25
Rear Passenger: 37.5
Rear Driver: 37.5

I'm a dumb@55 and forgot to take measurements before.

Next time I do something to the front that requires an alignment, I might add a half inch spacer. Technically, I could move the driver side up one notch to gain 0.75", but I'm not crazy about that idea. Especially as I'll need to move both up a notch if/when I get a bumper.

I'm assuming those are ground to fender numbers lol.

Yeah, that's pretty good actually, .5" to .75" spacer would work out perfectly for you. I'm surprised the rear was even - mine was off by 1.5" lol.

Sorry yeah. If I think of it tomorrow I'll modify to hub to fender. That's a more useful number.

The kit says rear lift is 0-1". So it's not possible to do no lift with the included springs?

Rear is not adjustable, so I don't see how.

Looks like ground to center of hub on all 4 corners is 15.75", so subtract that from the other numbers to get the center hub to fender numbers.

35.5 - 15.75 = 19.75" - that's stock height, I think. Looks like you didnt get any lift at all. Or is my math wrong?

I love my eibach kit. Had 150K XREAS on there and replaced it with the RHA shocks & springs. Huge difference. Love it on- & off-road.

Late to the party but thought I'd try...

Looking at the same kit I believe for a 2006 4runner. Running 265/70 R17 BFG K02s. Original shocks are worn out, and I'd like to replace all four corners and keep it fairly close to stock.

PRO-TRUCK LIFT SYSTEM (Stage 1) - TOYOTA 4Runner Base

Am I correct in that this would equal about a 1" lift in the back, and raise the front to nearly level? Would I need UCAs? This will be a casually used daily driver with some unimproved service roads on the weekends.

Another common option I see is 5100s and Moog FJ Springs. How does that setup compare price and performance wise? Thanks in advance for any help!

I pretty much have the exact setup you mentioned, 31" KO2's with the Eibach lift. It's about 2.5" front - 1" rear for a level stance. Maybe a slight .5" rake which is perfect when you add passengers or a little weight. I have the V8 on the bottom notch and those are the numbers I got. You don't absolutely need UCA, but it does help get your caster closer or higher than spec. It definately feels better with the high caster UCA on the highway and gives more articulation offroad. My caster went from 1.6/2.3 to 4.5/4.6 with the JBA UCA. I can't remember the cost difference between the Moog/Bilstien and the Eibach kit but I think it's close. They are similar set ups but for me Eibach had the whole package together making it easy, plus the springs and shocks were designed to work together.

As stated, you don't strictly speaking need new UCAs. You can get away with the old ones. That said, if you've got a bunch of mileage on them you will have to replace them at some point. Lifts tend to be hard on UCAs.

Personally I think this is a step up from the 5100/Moog setup. Its closer to some of the milder Dobinsons setups. I feel like the Eibachs have a more forgiving on road feel than the Bilsteins do.

Biggest issue is if you load up with a full load of camp gear for a 3-4 day trip with liquids and everything, it is going to sag pretty bad. Personally, I think they needed a taller rear spring, so I ended up replacing my rear springs.

If I had it to do over again, I'd probably go Dobinsons. However, I needed something adjustable as it was a year of wheeling before my bumper went on, and my wife liked the way the original stuff road so I didn't want to get something too heavy in terms of ride quality. It has met my needs pretty well.

Thanks all! Not planning on carrying a ton of weight I suppose - but I don't want to be nose up as soon as I load a dirt bike on a a hitch mount carrier either...

Would it be worth doing to Eibach & a heavier spring from the beginning, or are we talking about a much more significant load before it starts sagging?