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Old 05-03-2020, 11:42 AM #16
AuSeeker AuSeeker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Direwolf82 View Post
Pull a spark plug, jam the side of it somewhere that's grounded and see if you have spark. It sounds to me like you lost fire, especially with nothing happening when you hit it with ether.
Possible signal issue, coil issue or something along those lines. Start wiggling wires looking for a loose connection on something.
All engines break down into systems, is it mechanically moving air, is the electrical system firing the plugs, is the fuel system getting fuel to the cylinders.
Sounds like you've eliminated 2 of the three already, concentrate on the electrical and get it making spark is what I'd be doing.
You must of missed post #13 where he updated that it appears to have jumped a couple of teeth on the timing belt.
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Old 05-03-2020, 04:14 PM #17
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Correct, at this point I just need to know what to do to fix the timing. Can I lesson the tension and adjust the right Cam to line up?
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Old 05-03-2020, 05:00 PM #18
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Originally Posted by cranknostart View Post
Correct, at this point I just need to know what to do to fix the timing. Can I lesson the tension and adjust the right Cam to line up?
I don't think there's no way you can positively tell which gear "jumped", it could be the crank, or either of the cam gears, if it were me at the very least I would turn it until you can get any 2 of the gears to line up correctly and then loosen the belt and try and get the other one on it's timing mark, BUT not being there to really inspect the belt for even the smallest damage from it jumping or even have the slightest thought that it might be damaged I might be inclined to go with a new belt because if the old belts breaks while it's running the engine will be trashed and then you're looking at replacing the engine.
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Old 05-03-2020, 06:42 PM #19
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This is what I'd do...ymmv:

I'd pull the belt, inspect the area for any foreign matter or coolant, inspect all the seals, inspect the pulleys, idlers, and put a brand new belt on....I'd do a new tensioner while I'm in there as well.

You need to line up the crank and both cam marks before you put the new belt on. The new belt will have marks on it to line up to the marks on the engine.
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Old 05-03-2020, 06:46 PM #20
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The tensioner is hydraulic. You have to remove it anyway, so that's why I'd just replace it.

New belt and tensioner are cheap insurance while you're in there.

If you feel excited, you could put a whole new timing kit in there, but I don't think it's necessary.
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Old 05-03-2020, 08:39 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooper30 View Post
The tensioner is hydraulic. You have to remove it anyway, so that's why I'd just replace it.

New belt and tensioner are cheap insurance while you're in there.

If you feel excited, you could put a whole new timing kit in there, but I don't think it's necessary.
Thank you for the info. Need to weld up a tool remove the harmonic balancer.

Just got on rock auto and order a new Tbelt, Tensioner, and pulleys.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2020, 05:39 PM #22
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**Update**

Finally got the Harmonic Balancer off. See album below.



What I Noticed
  • Lots of residue below the crank shaft, looks like it may be leaking.
  • Also some residue near and around the tensioner. Can't tell what from.
  • The belt was not correctly aligned. From the pictures you can see the right/left cam marks are not aligned. Could this have caused the jump?

Questions
  • Whats the best way to go about fixing the Cam shaft leak?
  • Can I spray everything down with brake cleaner and scrub it up? Would that damage anything?
  • Should I grease the Cam shaft when everything is put back together? Looks like it had some mobile one grease on it.

New Tbelt, Tensioner, and pulley in the mail.

I appreciate everyones help.
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Last edited by cranknostart; 05-06-2020 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:45 AM #23
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If you've got all the pulleys off (cam and crank pulleys, and it looks like the seals are weeping, I'd replace em. Cheap insurance and you wont have to do em again. The way I like to pull seals is get two small diameter sheet metal screws, drill two small holes in the seal (be careful so when you get through the seal you don't put a dent in anything, thread the screws in a good amount and slowly pull on the screws with a claw hammer.

Installing is way more important than removal. I like to use a silicone lubricant (Sil-Glyde is what I use) on the installation surfaces and the seal. If you've got a socket that is about the size of the diameter of the seal, you can use that to aid installing the seal. Otherwise, watch a few youtube videos on how to do it.

Brake Clean is my favorite libation when it comes to cleaning things. I buy it by the case because of that. Spray away and you'll be fine. I also don't think the camshaft needs greased. When the engine is running, it gets oiled from the oil pump and the camshaft seals keep the oil in. The mobil 1 grease you see might actually be fine particles of rubber.
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Old 05-06-2020, 12:08 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SumoRerun View Post
If you've got all the pulleys off (cam and crank pulleys, and it looks like the seals are weeping, I'd replace em. Cheap insurance and you wont have to do em again. The way I like to pull seals is get two small diameter sheet metal screws, drill two small holes in the seal (be careful so when you get through the seal you don't put a dent in anything, thread the screws in a good amount and slowly pull on the screws with a claw hammer.

Installing is way more important than removal. I like to use a silicone lubricant (Sil-Glyde is what I use) on the installation surfaces and the seal. If you've got a socket that is about the size of the diameter of the seal, you can use that to aid installing the seal. Otherwise, watch a few youtube videos on how to do it.

Brake Clean is my favorite libation when it comes to cleaning things. I buy it by the case because of that. Spray away and you'll be fine. I also don't think the camshaft needs greased. When the engine is running, it gets oiled from the oil pump and the camshaft seals keep the oil in. The mobil 1 grease you see might actually be fine particles of rubber.
Thank you, saved me a trip to pickup a seal puller. Ordered new seals.
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Old 05-10-2020, 04:44 PM #25
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**Update**

Got the timing belt on and everything put together.
The Engine started, however it has a very ticking noise.

Video of ticking noise: YouTube

3 DTCs now appear:

P0300
P0304
P0308.

Swapped the Coil Packs and Spark plugs from working cylinder to non working, nothing changed.

Cleaned MAF, no change.

Anyone have any ideas for me to try next?

How likely is it the timing slips and damaged the motor?
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Old 05-10-2020, 04:56 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranknostart View Post
Got the timing belt on and everything put together.
The Engine started, however it has a very ticking noise.

Video of ticking noise: YouTube

3 DTCs now appear:

P0300
P0304
P0308.

Swapped the Coil Packs and Spark plugs from working cylinder to non working, nothing changed.

Cleaned MAF, no change.

Anyone have any ideas for me to try next?

How likely is it the timing slips and damaged the motor?
Do a compression test on cylinders 4 and 8, if the compression is off you most likely damaged valves when it jumped timing.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:28 PM #27
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Got a compression tester. No compression on the 8th cylinder.
Looks like damaged valves from timing jump.
What are my options at this point?
Can I replace the Valve?
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:45 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranknostart View Post
Got a compression tester. No compression on the 8th cylinder.
Looks like damaged valves from timing jump.
What are my options at this point?
Can I replace the Valve?
You should be able to replace the valve/s....but be prepared for possible piston damage, what happens when these V8s jump timing is the valve/s hit the piston/s, the rattling you're hearing is most likely pieces of the valve and or piston jumping around in the cylinder, my next step would be to use a snake type camera and look into the cylinder/s to assess the actual damage further and then decide what it will take to fix it if it's worth it at that point, if you're lucky it just has a bent valve and it's being held opened and causing the cup on top of the valve stem at the cam to be bouncing around.

You may end up deciding to get another low mileage engine from a savage yard instead of fixing the damage.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:49 PM #29
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Depstech makes a decent cheap borescope that works with phones, at least Android. What caused it to skip time - was there a splattered mouse under the timing cover, loose tensioner, seized pulley...?
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:57 PM #30
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Just grabbed a Depstech borscope off amazon, thanks..
Nothing really stood out the could've caused it to skip time.
There was a leak from the Crankshaft seal.
Hopefully it's only a bent valve, guess I should start looking around for another 2uz just in case.
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