Got my runner last Monday, 07' v6 154k on it pretty clean great service history. Was reading about how it's recommended to put the car in 4h and 4l every couple hundred miles to keep the transfer case and it's parts nice and lubed up. So I figured on the way home tonight from work I'd ride in 4h, perfect no problems. I get into town, get to a stop sign, put it in park and go to turn the knob to 4l, it wasn't as easy to turn it from 4h to 4l, and I didn't want to force it. Is it normal to have the resistance it did and I was just scared to put it in 4l? Or is that a bad sign? Thanks.

You have to push the button in and turn to get from 4H to 4L. Give that a shot, it'll either engage within a few seconds (dash lights will change accordingly) or it won't, in which case you'll know your actuator is frozen.

So im not quite sure what resistance means. The dial may be stuck/ damaged and the pressure from the knob is not determined by the 4WD engaging. You do have to push it in to turn it.

If there are issues with engaging 4lo id imagine youd get lights flickering and the 4lo just wouldnt show up on your dashboard.

Also make sure you come to a stop, but the transmission into neutral as you shift from 4hi to 4 lo and vice versa

Transmission should be in neutral, not park, when shifting to 4L.

^^^ What techno said. Completely stopped, level ground, transmission in Neutral, to shift "in" and "out" of 4Lo. Also, any plastic knob selector can strip out, so not forcing was a good thing.
Exercising the 4 hi and 4Lo is a good thing to do frequently, but every couple hundred miles might be a little more than frequent lol. Won't hurt though. This goes for the "center differential lock" too. Sitting up for weeks at a time would be something to be aware of as well. When I was working my trucks sat either in the garage or at the airport, getting no daily commute, so at that point the mileage wouldn't matter if it was 50 miles since I last engaged it in 4wd, the servos were sitting idle for a month sometimes. Here in moisture thick Florida, corrosion will be setting in quickly. Matter of fact, it's time for all 3 of mine to get some exercise.

Videos on engaging H4 - L4 4WD system in a 2003 to 2009 4Runner:

YouTube

YouTube

Thanks for all the help. Got her in 4lo this morning but there was a bit of squeal/grind In and out. Not sure if this is because it hasn't been done in a while or if it is a bad thing. I'm sure it's bad but I don't want to tell myself that.

I usually try and do a small inspection of everything at least once a month. That includes actuating 4hi, lo, and center diff. Like others have mentioned, neutral, stopped, and push the knob in to go to low. You can do all of these on pavement as long as you don't turn with the center diff on. The traction will bind up the drivetrain and it was sound sad, just go straight on a neighborhood road or something where you can stop if you have to. I try to get them all in and out a few times, then drive around in 4hi without the center locked for a bit. Another thing I usually look for is the condition of the cv boots and give them a shake.

Also another 4wd health check is to check the diff and transfer case fluid levels. Since they're sealed, its kind of a Schrodinger's cat situation since you don't know the levels. My rear diff and transfer case levels were fine, but I couldn't touch the level of the front. I suspect it was just below my fat fingers could touch based on the amount that came out, but I never would have known without changing the fluid.

edit: I see you responded while I was typing, so wanted to add to my comment. I've only had it grind a tad when I when I wasn't thinking and turned while trying to go into 4hi, which can be done while moving. Going into 4lo, I can hear it actuate, but there is no grinding.

Might have just been working itself free, I'd cycle it a few times throughout the week and see if it continues. Also change your transfer case fluid if you don't have a record of it being done.

Just a word of caution.. you can operate in 2WD, 4WD High, or 4WD Low on high traction surfaces (road/pavement) all you want, just don't go locking the center diff unless you are off-road.




It's going to scrub like crazy around turns, and isn't really that good for the gear box as it starts to bind up. Going straight isn't so much a problem, but its not really something you should be doing.

My guess is that this will work itself out as you engage & disengage it over time. I would love to know how many 4WD vehicles are bought & never shifted into that mode before either a new owner does it or they go to the junkyard.

Sorry I've been at work all night. It may have just been it getting itself functioning and that's the unfamiliar noise I heard. But that was my plan throughout the next couple weeks is trying to get everything in cycle a few times. I took it to a Toyota dealership near me and had them change the PS fluid and asked about the transfer case and differential fluids. They said my rear diff was too Rusty and they weren't willing to break the seal as it may cause other problems. They also said my exhaust needed replaced because it was rusted...BS, it's fine. Haven't looked at the diff yet but I can't imagine it being as bad as they say it is because the frame is clean. I can't believe the prices they quote for things though...$70 for license plate lights? $130 for coolant! 😂

The diff & transfer case fluids aren’t hard to do. Great writeup here & gasket set you will need is here.

If you can’t DIY for whatever reason, ask around for a good local shop. If you go DIY, the front diff requires a 10mm hex bit. I find that it’s worth buying a longer one b/c of the limited space around that plug.

I'm all for doing my own work, but that 10mm lex on front diff man... when a good DIY turns into an OMG

I had to take it to someone to air hammer off loose after I stripped it.

I might have missed it...is your truck full time 4wd?