It amazes me that there isn't a post and/or nobody gave a definitive answer about this subject. The most I saw was, "check with a multimeter". One thread did mention wire colors, but not much else that I could remember. When one wants their Toyota-like button/switch or want their aftermarket button/switch backlight to ALSO turn on, these are the wires you are looking for:

so then, without much further adieu, look for the following wires, behind the button/switch of course:

Green: (+) 12V
White/Black Stripe : (-)

These wires can be found behind any switch (these were my DAC and heated seat switch). From consensus (and common sense), you can splice into these to light another Toyota-like switch that lights up when turning the outside lights on. DO NOT splice into these for something that needs a lot of amperage (wire to an radio amp, LED light bar, GPS equipment, etc). Do that and watch your truck's electrical system go down the toilet (ECU) . Be mindful that the negative is what dims the light.

Note (and surprise b/c i never noticed), the backlight wires are on opposite ends


Viola!


That is all, hope this helps anyone searching.

As always, use your multimeter JUST to be sure. If you don't know how to use one, maybe you shouldn't be fiddling with your wires

So I have a question for ya'll.

I purchased Toyota switches for some accessories that I'm installing. One for @J.A. NAV bypass and a switch for a front camera I want to install. Looking at the wiring diagram, it is very straightforward, however I did have a question for those who may know.

Switch (button) diagram:
1) Source, 12V+
2) To item (accessory)
3) Dash light circuit +
4) Ground

As we all know, the dash light circuit, on our rigs, is dimmed by the negative wire, which this switch is NOT connected to. The ground is for the "switch" itself, not the background light (I think). Anyway, my thinking is that all will be fine by splicing into the dash light wire to an adjacent switch, but it won't be able to dim.

Am I right?

Correct. I spliced into my green wire from my DAC and grounded the switch for lights. My backlit lights are bright and do not dim with my rheostat. Since reading your post about the white/black, I am thinking if the ground is tied into that the switch may dim.

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They might, but then again, what does that "ground" belong to? The accessory or backlight? Again, my thinking might be totally off. The accessory, in your case your light bar, is grounded elsewhere. Wow, I feel really dumb now.

Anyway, good to know that wiring it the way you did doesn't cause issues.

I'm going to email the vendor and see if I can get more information. I thought I'd reach out to see if folks had experience with them.

Thanks!

Ed, I dont believe you are thinking about this correctly.

The ground is NOT for the "switch" itself, it is indeed for the background light only.

On the DAC switch you are grabbing the two wires to make your new switch light up, there should be a White w/ Green stripe wire which is the Illumination Circuit Dimmer Negative wire (ILL-). That is what you bring over to the #4 black ground pin on the new switch.

Thank you for clarifying that. After some thinking and seeing other countless Single Throw switch diagrams (pinouts), most have 2 "pins". To think that the switch itself has a ground is very silly. I thought that it had some sort of a connection to the accessory (they don't). In the case of your NAV OVERRIDE, the unit itself has a ground. I can't wait to use it!

Very helpful and one step ahead of that I'm looking to do next. Thanks

I tried the dimming feature by putting the switch ground wire to the white w/w green stripe right next to the green+ wire and the switch dimmed, I’ll have to redo mine since I like them to function as intended, not that I really use my dimmer much. The other white/green stripe didn’t dim, nor did the other white wire.

For the ground, I just had mine all grounded inside to the chassis together. My lights ground centrally under the hood and my relays under the hood together. As you know the switch doesn’t have to be attached to the ground wire all the way from the accessory to the switch inside.

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The white with black stripe must be some other ground that I'm unaware of, then again, I didn't check the wires WHILE using the rheostat. Bad on me. I feel stupid now.

Thanks everyone for chiming in!

It’s all good, I wouldn’t worry about it. Your post definitely helped me identify how to dim my switches that I’ve been racking my brain about so thank you for starting this thread!

I’ve been trying to figure it out for a while. I was really confused when some of the hot wires actually increase voltage when I turn the rheostat down and decrease when I turn rheostat up (backwards). I’m far from a mechanic or electrician though lol. I’m sure it will help plenty of others as well.

So I'm trying to wire a similar switch and wanting to make sure I've got it all correct. So power I'm good with. The dash light circuit is what I need clarification on.

Red(power) - Planning to use an add-a-fuse to the box to power on with ign
Black (ground) - This is the one that needs to be spliced to the white w/ green stripe wire on the DAC plug
Yellow (dash light circuit) - Spliced to green wire from DAC plug

Is that correct?
The solid green wire from the plug is the backlight circuit?
Is that powered only when the interior backlighting is on or is that function controlled through the ground circuit?
Mine does not have the air lift suspension. Could I use the plug for that so I'm not cutting up a functional DAC wire?

Problem solved. I connected the wires as noted above (to DAC plug) and things are working perfectly. Switch is matched to interior lights, including dimming.