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Old 05-21-2020, 08:23 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runn4est View Post
I mentioned this in FB but I'll mention it here to help the info get out. I had trouble replacing my rear lower control arm bolt with a longer bolt after welding on Eimkeith's LLS kit.

The bolt is a M14 bolt, and I bought a new M14 bolt. I went to slide it through the mount holes and the threads screwed through, like the OEM bolt, then the shank stopped dead in its tracks. After much brain racking, and measuring, I've determined that Toyota uses a Japanese Standard Metric which has a narrower shank than thread.

So on an M14 OEM bolt, the threads are 14mm and the shank is 13mm. On a normal metric bolt, the shank and thread is 14mm. The hole in my bushing was 14mm and for the normal 14mm shank fit just fine. What this tells me is that Toyota has designed these bushings with the "loose" tolerances. Why? I don't know...maybe less seizing?
Thanks, you definitely explained the Japanese metric better than I did. I'm glad you got this documented here as well so others can find it.

I had read somewhere that Toyota assembled these alignment cams dry, so you could be on to something about the tolerance to try and keep everything from seizing. Although I guess if that was their plan, then it did backfire a bit haha
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:25 AM #17
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Update:
I followed up with Whiteline Friday afternoon to see if they had heard from the AU technical support. They had not heard anything from down under, but the US support had taken a look at my videos and post here. Still waiting on the AU support response and will update again once I hear.

The representative I talked to was very helpful and explained a few questions that I had. Here are the key takeaways from our conversation:
  1. After comparing measurements, the play between the bushing sleeve ID and the cam bolt OD is most likely normal. Most people don't dry fit outside of the vehicle, so they don't normally get questions about play. After the bushing and cams are torqued, then everything should be fine.
  2. The rotation in the joint should occur between the bushing ID and the sleeve ID. This I was pretty sure of this, but wanted to double check.
  3. Zerks can be drilled to make maintenance and regreasing easier
  4. Detailed question posts can help to better explain your problems and can help support to better answer your questions. I did my best to be as detailed as possible, and they liked that

So after having this conversation Friday, I had the confidence to cut everything apart and begin working. I will be taking pictures along the way to do a writeup when I finish. Here are some sneak peak pictures of my current progress:
I already had some normal blades for thinner metal and tried those, but it took me 5 to get through 1 cam. Don't waste your time on the regular saw blades, get the carbide ones.
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help

After that, I went and got some Diable Carbide Speed Demon Blades. I used 2 of the carbide blades to plow through the other cams.
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help

Pushing the bushings out with the jack method
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help

After pressing the old bushings out, I decided to take a look and see if they had any indication of play in them. It may be hard to see in the pictures, but there is a clear gap between the cam bolt and the bushing sleeve. Of course, its filled with corrosion now, but it is there on the OEM parts as well. This was definitely a relief to see that this is normal
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help
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Old 05-24-2020, 03:35 PM #18
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Which ball joints are you using for replacement?

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Old 05-24-2020, 05:06 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
Which ball joints are you using for replacement?

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Initially I was thinking that it would be okay since its still feels tight and doesn't click with the 6 and 12 shake, but its seeming more and more like a good idea to do the ball joints while everything is out. I like the idea of the Moog greasable ones, but have heard mixed reviews on Moog. I have also seen some getting good quality ball joints from Napa.

edit: I also asked with Kevin from toothless.t4r on instagram, since he is doing the whitelines right now as well and is a bit more rowdy than me. Hes using the import direct ball joints, so I'm going to look into them as well
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:06 AM #20
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Wanted to add another update to this thread:

I got the bushings pushed in this weekend and can hopefully get everything finalized in my time after work this week. I did end up going with the import direct ball joints and they should be going in after paint.

I am also working on making a guide to LCA refreshing/rebuilding with the whitelines and ball joints. Here are some teaser pics of the progress.
Ball Joint: (I used a breaker bar to press these crusty bois out)
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help
Cleaning the LCAs:
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help

Pressing in the new bushings:
Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help
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Old 06-01-2020, 12:26 PM #21
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Nice

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Old 06-01-2020, 12:32 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Initially I was thinking that it would be okay since its still feels tight and doesn't click with the 6 and 12 shake, but its seeming more and more like a good idea to do the ball joints while everything is out. I like the idea of the Moog greasable ones, but have heard mixed reviews on Moog. I have also seen some getting good quality ball joints from Napa.

edit: I also asked with Kevin from toothless.t4r on instagram, since he is doing the whitelines right now as well and is a bit more rowdy than me. Hes using the import direct ball joints, so I'm going to look into them as well
As in from O'Reilly? I'd be interested to hear from people who have actually run them. It sucks we can't get them from toyota.

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Old 06-01-2020, 01:11 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
As in from O'Reilly? I'd be interested to hear from people who have actually run them. It sucks we can't get them from toyota.

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Yeah I wasn't keen on parts store ball joints, but Kevin had recommended them. I saw he was doing the whitelines as well, and messaged him after reading your question. I have also heard good things about the Sankei 555 ball joints. They come from advanced, but looks like they could be from a legitimate Japanese supplier. The ball joints aren't pressed in yet, so there is still a chance to exchange them haha.

Definitely does suck that Toyota doesn't sell them individually, but they sell the bushings. Bushings are way more work to change than just the ball joint, so I find that part odd.
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My Write-ups: Door Lock Actuator Replacement, Whiteline LCA Bushing Tutorial

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