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Old 06-01-2020, 05:43 PM #1
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LEDs on HVAC help

Hello,

So, I recently "redid" my HVAC assembly using new 12v LEDs for the HVAC display. (long story). Anyway, as you may now, the factory backlight is 6v, I did a reverse polarization to my screen and am using (trying) 2 LEDs rated at 12v (I tapped the radio power). 12v+ coming from the radio power and the negative from the assembly's negative.

Following are the "sockets" for the factory bulbs that illuminate the HVAC display. Note the + and - . (positive side not used, but negative is for dimming)


So then, because my assembly was butchered (too much solder was placed onto the contacts, so a factory bulb or LED can no longer be "inserted"), an LED or bulb has to "sit" on top of it. For the negative part to make contact, I taped it hoping it would secure it. I was wrong.

I tried removing the excess solder, but was unsuccessful.

I used tape to secure bulbs in place.


Here is a picture when I hooked up the LED to the 12v wire. Obviously, no light.


Here is a picture when I put pressure on the bulbs. Doing this obviously makes the base make contact with the negative thus turning the LED on.


My question to ya'll is:

1) How/what should I use to adhere the bulbs? Soldering came to mind, but I'd rather not do that.

If you guys have any suggestions, let me know!
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:05 AM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieRoe View Post
Hello,

So, I recently "redid" my HVAC assembly using new 12v LEDs for the HVAC display. (long story). Anyway, as you may now, the factory backlight is 6v, I did a reverse polarization to my screen and am using (trying) 2 LEDs rated at 12v (I tapped the radio power). 12v+ coming from the radio power and the negative from the assembly's negative.

Following are the "sockets" for the factory bulbs that illuminate the HVAC display. Note the + and - . (positive side not used, but negative is for dimming)


So then, because my assembly was butchered (too much solder was placed onto the contacts, so a factory bulb or LED can no longer be "inserted"), an LED or bulb has to "sit" on top of it. For the negative part to make contact, I taped it hoping it will secure it. Wrong.

I tried removing the excess solder, but was unsuccessful.

I used taped to secure bulbs in place.


Here is a picture when I hooked up the LED to the 12v wire. Obviously, no light.


Here is a picture when I put pressure on the bulbs. Doing this obviously makes the base make contact with the negative thus turning the LED on.


My question to ya'll is:

1) How/what should I use to adhere the bulbs? Soldering came to mind, but I'd rather not do that.

If you guys have any suggestions, let me know!
Honestly if the rest is butchered so bad with solder, then you might as well just solder that negative contact so it works, LED’s last so long there’s a good chance you may never have to replace it.
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Old 06-02-2020, 09:11 AM #3
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i just use some high temp hot glue. you can try the gorilla glue, that gel stuff, i use that on my dash kit to keep the trim ring in place.
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:22 AM #4
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Originally Posted by cwilliams563 View Post
Honestly if the rest is butchered so bad with solder, then you might as well just solder that negative contact so it works, LED’s last so long there’s a good chance you may never have to replace it.
After looking up what adhesives to use, I went back to thinking about soldering it. I'm not good at it, but I'll try to apply some solder onto the base of the bulb and see how that goes. It's not that it's butchered, there is a GLOB of solder on the bulb contacts that it is extremely difficult for me (non-expert and little experience) to get it all off. I got some wix and a desoldering pump, but that didn't work. I gave up early b/c I didn't want to fry the circuit board.

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i just use some high temp hot glue. you can try the gorilla glue, that gel stuff, i use that on my dash kit to keep the trim ring in place.
That is what I was thinking. There is some electric conductive adhesives, but MAN those are expensive. As long as the negative is making contact with the negative side base I should be fine.
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:40 PM #5
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@CookieRoe i didn't do that did I? Wait, i remember, i fixed the cluster. I can work on your HVAC if you want. I actually just acquired a spare. I would suggest putting the led's in place, use a hot glue gun, see if that works. Easily removable if doesn't work.
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:54 PM #6
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@CookieRoe i didn't do that did I? Wait, i remember, i fixed the cluster. I can work on your HVAC if you want. I actually just acquired a spare. I would suggest putting the led's in place, use a hot glue gun, see if that works. Easily removable if doesn't work.
No Mark, it wasn't you, it was emiliankov who did that. He's no longer here, nice guy, but his work was sloppy. BTW, cluster is still going strong! I've been doing a lot of soldering lately (installing lots of mods during this covid-19 crisis) and let me tell ya, SCREW soldering those TINY LEDs in the cluster, more power to ya!!

HOT GLUE GUN......................



DAMN, why didn't I think of that. Rubbing alcohol takes it off, right?

so, yeah, I was going to lay a little bit of solder onto the base of the LED (touching the negative wire, of course), smooth the "glob" of solder and hope they make better contact that way. The hot glue will definately insure a secure fit.

THANKS!
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Old 06-02-2020, 04:13 PM #7
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I would have thought with wix and a soldering pump, you should have been able to get it off. Soldering is an art though and I’m not very good at it either. Pretty crude but can I get the job done in basic scenarios.

I was going to suggest hot glue but have had many bad experiences with it coming right off in warm to hot temperatures for many applications. Didn’t realize they made a high temp hot glue though. That would be pretty easy.
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:14 PM #8
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I would have thought with wix and a soldering pump, you should have been able to get it off. Soldering is an art though and I’m not very good at it either. Pretty crude but can I get the job done in basic scenarios.

I was going to suggest hot glue but have had many bad experiences with it coming right off in warm to hot temperatures for many applications. Didn’t realize they made a high temp hot glue though. That would be pretty easy.
The pump seems to be good for taking small "circular spots" of solder off of circuit boards, not the way it was applied onto my bulb contacts. I tried and tried, but I noticed not a lot was coming off. Unless I had to use flux or something (I didn't have). Anyway, I didn't want to overheat it so I backed off.

As far as the hot glue gun idea, my wife has a basic one (nothing fancy), but I've seen it work. Like I mentioned, it can always be removed safely by using rubbing alcohol (good luck finding it nowadays, LOL). I was honestly considering getting a silver epoxy, but that is mad expensive and permanent (yikes).

I'll be tackling this tonight and report tomorrow. If I come back cursing in German, ya'll will know how it went.
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Old 06-03-2020, 07:50 PM #9
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Success!

So, I ended up getting some solder on my trusty iron and attempted to solder the led negative wire to the bulb base (negative side). They stuck of course, but I wasn't feeling easy about them, so I got a hot glue gun and secured them in. Soldering and glueing took about 5 min. Went to my rig to hook up the 12v wire and BLING BLING!





These are 12v LEDs, bright white. Last time they were amber LEDs and they didn't do much to illuminate the display. This was about 5-6 years ago. During the day, especially with the bright sun, the display was virtually dark. However at night, they were the perfect color. Oh well. With these white LEDs, they are brighter and retain (somewhat) the yellow color that is true to the factory. I'm a happy camper. Oh, and b/c they are connected to the negative base of the bulb, they dim with the dimmer.

Thanks everyone for their help!
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Old 06-04-2020, 11:29 AM #10
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@CookieRoe Soldering??? I used hot glue on your entire Cluster!! Its Duct tapes long lost cousin! I keed i keed. I will say, I tried my cluster when i started the whole deal without flux. it was the worst experience ever. I use this now

MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 milliliters Pneumatic Dispenser (Complete with Plunger & Dispensing Tip): Soldering Cleaning Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I would never solder circuits or anything without it. Makes the process so simple.
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Old 06-04-2020, 11:34 AM #11
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@CookieRoe Soldering??? I used hot glue on your entire Cluster!! Its Duct tapes long lost cousin! I keed i keed. I will say, I tried my cluster when i started the whole deal without flux. it was the worst experience ever. I use this now

MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 milliliters Pneumatic Dispenser (Complete with Plunger & Dispensing Tip): Soldering Cleaning Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


I would never solder circuits or anything without it. Makes the process so simple.
Wow, you made me nervous for a minute there, LOL!

A neighbor LONG AGO told me never to solder without flux. Many others told me that was BS. I haven't used and will now in the future. Maybe that is why soldering is a PITA for me.

MG Chemicals? Nice, I used their conductive epoxy to pot my HID ballasts. Best stuff on earth for that!
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Old 06-04-2020, 12:44 PM #12
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Wow, you made me nervous for a minute there, LOL!

A neighbor LONG AGO told me never to solder without flux. Many others told me that was BS. I haven't used and will now in the future. Maybe that is why soldering is a PITA for me.

MG Chemicals? Nice, I used their conductive epoxy to pot my HID ballasts. Best stuff on earth for that!
Well, it all depends on what your soldering. The 3 years i worked at Circuit City and installed car stereos, i used a torch and nothing else. Obviously make sure your not burning holes in someones car!

When its small wires or anything else use flux for ease!

Glad my job is still holding strong!
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Old 11-12-2021, 03:16 PM #13
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Is it worth paying someone to do this for you?
Yes, absolutely! I know a guy!
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