[saint123]

2003 TR4 4.7, 2uzfe, 280K strong

I was replacing my timing belt this weekend and misaligned the markers on the belt with the notches on the shafts. Basically the timing belt markers on cam shafts were correctly aligned but the one on the crank shaft was off by a notch or two.

Inadvertently, that unevenly loaded the belt (I believe) and while I was rotating the crank to make sure everything was aligned, the belt slipped multiple times. At the end, the markers on the pulleys did not line up correctly.

Now, I assumed that we only skipped a few teeth. I took the belt off, realigned the cams, put the belt back on, and used the screw driver method to make sure that when the pulley markers align with the notches on the head, cylinder one was at TDC.

What else, if anything, should I do to make sure that my beloved truck cranks fine once I put it together. My son will kill me if I kill the truck!

[saint123]

I was hoping someone would be willing to help
Is my explanation confusing?could really use some help here folks

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by saint123

I was hoping someone would be willing to help
Is my explanation confusing?could really use some help here folks

Hopefully someone will give their advice..BUT you need to have some patience because not everyone has a V8 much less the knowledge you seek about timing belt replacement.

There are several topics if you do a search where members have done their own timing belt replacement, which may help answer your questions, at least one topic if I recall has a PDF from the FSM on the timing belt replacement, also I think the procedure is a tiny bit different in the early V8s and the VVT-i V8s, so you also need to wait on someone with the early V8 timing belt knowledge not the VVT-i V8s.

[4Reak Show]

Originally Posted by saint123

2003 TR4 4.7, 2uzfe, 280K strong

I was replacing my timing belt this weekend and misaligned the markers on the belt with the notches on the shafts. Basically the timing belt markers on cam shafts were correctly aligned but the one on the crank shaft was off by a notch or two.

Inadvertently, that unevenly loaded the belt (I believe) and while I was rotating the crank to make sure everything was aligned, the belt slipped multiple times. At the end, the markers on the pulleys did not line up correctly.

Now, I assumed that we only skipped a few teeth. I took the belt off, realigned the cams, put the belt back on, and used the screw driver method to make sure that when the pulley markers align with the notches on the head, cylinder one was at TDC.

What else, if anything, should I do to make sure that my beloved truck cranks fine once I put it together. My son will kill me if I kill the truck!

It’s been awhile since I did a Toyota V-8 but I’ve done quite a few in my lifetime, and literally thousands of timing belt jobs in general. From what I recall of my old methods, it starts with disassembly (which doesn’t help you much now). But basically, I would mark the old belt on the spots where the new one needed to go and then confirm proper alignment with the new belt vs the old. Normally, toyota belts are already marked so this is sort of irrelevant other than helps you count teeth to ensure you’re using the right belt for that job.

Anyway, you want to make sure all the slack in the belt is on the tensioner side prior to pulling the pin. And from what I recall I also left the idler pulleys SLIGHTLY loose as well at the tensioner body bolts to help ease installing and give you just that little bit of slack while aligning: install marked belt, wiggle sprockets one at a time to align with those marks and walk it around until it all is in place. Use binder clips or clothespins to clamp belt to sprockets. Cinch down the slightly loose idlers, followed lastly by tensioner body bolts. Using crankshaft bolt, SLIGHTLY rotate entire engine (like 1/16 of a turn) and then pull tensioner pin.

2 full crank rotations and recheck marks. Be aware of the fear of “1/4 tooth off” that’s garbage. It’s either right or it’s wrong. None of this half tooth nonsense.

Once it’s all tight and routed correctly it can’t jump teeth. There is literally no enough slack anywhere for that to happen unless you didn’t pull tensioner pin.

And for those that don’t like the leaving idlers slightly loose idea: check the special bolts. Many of them have a tapered shoulder so it helps to recenter the pulley

[gimlithepirate]

It's been a while since I did mine, but my memory is that it takes at least 2 full cycles for everything to line up again. After getting my belt on, I turned mine a couple of times and could not get it to line up for several cycles.

If it was tensioned when you started turning it, you are fine I think...

[rdruss]

I haven't done my V8 but I did my Highlander V6 back in December and I had one cam pulley that would turn on it's own very abruptly and about an eighth of a turn as I was trying to get the belt on, this is due to valve spring pressure on one or more of the cam lobes. Just had to keep working at it, return that cam pulley to the mark each time and try again. I used some clamps on each cam pulley to hold the belt in place while I worked on getting belt on crank pulley. It was a bit of a struggle but finally got it!
The comments up above by "4REAK SHOW" are on target.