My rear hatch was getting stuck and I decided to take the motor and assembly out to lubricated and clean it. It really needed it.

Put it back in and now I have no power to it. I reset the ECU B by pulling the fuse under the hood but I still have no power

Help!!

@Papparover Try disconnecting the battery for ~30 minutes. My latch wasn't working at all; nothing would happen when I press the button. If I disconnected the battery for ~15 minutes, then it would let the latch work 1 time, before not working again. Then I had some work done on my vehicle and it was magically working again. I'm assuming the battery was disconnected for an extended period while in the shop.

Thanks for the information.
I'll disconnect the battery overnight and see what happens in the morning.

yea I never understood that decision on Toyota's part. My 5th gen Limited is not designed like that, it has a mechanical latch so you can at least close and lock it with a dead battery. It's still needs power to open but at least your hatch isn't rattling around not latching fully. Technology is great until it stops working......Then it's a PIA.
It might work the same as the auto up/down switch on the windows. It needs to reset it self through the ECU to work properly.

OP: relax.

I unplugged mine when i was installing my rear camera (I had no choice as it was in the way of me fishing the wires). When I reinstalled it, it went dead. I didn't unplug my battery, but it did "magically work" after so many cycles of me turning the engine on/off. I had the mechanism in my Toyota parts shopping cart, all ready to be ordered. Works fine now.

Good luck.

ps: no need to reprogram anything.

The battery disconnect should be the fix. Maybe a wiring issue after putting the motor back in? Happened to me as well during a rear camera install. Also, make sure the child lock isn't on and your rear wiper is placed correctly. All of the above should get it back???

I wonder if techstream can reset it right away, but it has a fail safe built in after it goes through so many diagnostic cycles.

Disconnected the battery for about 6-hours. Works good as new! (Not sure that's a good thing, but it is working.) Thank you

Glad your problem is solved. Like others had mentioned, I was super pissed after having installed my backup camera and temporarily disconnecting that motor, only to have a non working tailgate. After a ton of research, I finally took a leap of faith and disconnected the battery for maybe an hour while having dinner to cool down from being so pissed! I reset the sunroof, door locks, windows, etc., and fortunately my gate worked once again too. Very dumb design, but long term disconnect seems to solve it.

Ok so...the rear tailgate ecu.
Unplug the bottom right side plug, power.
Plug it back in.
Then hit the key fob, unlock 2 times.
With the tailgate closed.

Wha La now the switch should work, bam!

Hi-
My rear hatch won't open unless I disconnect my battery (or remove the approiate fuse in engine). It will work a couple times normally, than it stops.

My question is:

Do I definitly need to replace the
Rear Door Gate Tailgate Latch Lock Motor 69110-35090 ......
or could it be the switch, or something else?

I don't want to spend the 200$ dollars for this, if its another issue-
https://www.ebay.com/p/1937338533?iid=353151446533

thanks!

might be a false contact somewhere? a peeled wire or something similar, can you extract the whole thing to check it?

I guess I could..Haven't disassembled it. You think it could be possible that the false contact would be attached to the lock motor? Would a power reset fix that?

Just a quick post hoping for some insight...

Door quit opening this summer and since the latch was getting quite noisy before it died, I replaced the latch and went through the process of re-initializing the system. It'll work once after that and then nothing. Now if I start it up and drive it around a little, it will open and close as long as I leave the engine running. I also noticed that occasionally I won't have rear defrost or the wiper as well, but that isn't consistent either.

I've been through the hatch wiring and everything looks solid there so I'm wondering if the ECU in the door is dying on it. I did have an issue where water was getting into the works when it rained really hard and causing all sorts of chaos (wiper going, alarm going off, drained battery). I replaced the door switch and resealed the housing and stopped that issue, but I'm wondering if it damaged the ECU causing the problems I'm having now.

Thanks in advance for any advice that could be thrown my way.

This is good information! I’m having latch issues as in the latch doesn’t catch. I used ratchet straps and when I took them off I couldn’t open the hatch at all...


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