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Old 08-02-2020, 10:44 PM #16
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Old CV Axle Teardown for Science | Return to Directory
I'm kind of an idiot for leaving it for this long, but live and learn. I decided to tear down the old axle to look at the effect of improper lubrication on the tripod joint. I do have an O'reilly's CV courtesy of LKQ thinking it was OEM, me receiving it and realizing it wasn't, and then refunding my money. I may try to cobble a half OEM axle together with the tripod from this axle and the boot saved from the junkyard axle. Theres also a Febest kit on ebay here: CV Joint Febest 0111-GRJ120 where I could get the complete inner joint. If after further analysis the axle is dead, I'll keep it around to show my friends how a CV joint works!

When I first pulled separated the inner joint, the bearings all fell right off.


Its interesting to compare the grease color, particularly seeing the metal debris in the torn boot axle and how it made the grease dark and shiny.


I also noticed there was some play between the tripod bearing, and the C-clip. Compared to the axle I rebooted, there was no play here.


Looking further into that play in the tripod bearing, we can see the axle shaft has slowly eaten away at the outer edge of the tripod bearing and made a chamfer. I don't have a good picture of the edge of the tripod on the newer axle, but you can still see here there is no chamfer.


Looking inside the tripod bearing cup, there is definitely some significant wear from the un-lubricated bearings. The wear is pretty noticeable, especially when compared to the axle I rebooted.

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Old 08-03-2020, 08:23 PM #17
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Also out of curiousity, when wheels are powder coated, do they do the part that is inside the tire too?
Yes, they should. A good shop will media blast the wheel to completely strip everything down to the bare metal. Then the powder coating process begins.

Powder coating produces a more durable product compared to conventional painting. Sure, it can be scuffed. But it's much more difficult to do. Think about any off road bumpers or sliders that you can buy - all the good ones have powder coating options, rather than paint.

Moreover, you don't want a paint job that is easily scuffed, because then you will be painting your wheels all the time.
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Old 08-03-2020, 08:42 PM #18
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Yes, they should. A good shop will media blast the wheel to completely strip everything down to the bare metal. Then the powder coating process begins.

Powder coating produces a more durable product compared to conventional painting. Sure, it can be scuffed. But it's much more difficult to do. Think about any off road bumpers or sliders that you can buy - all the good ones have powder coating options, rather than paint.

Moreover, you don't want a paint job that is easily scuffed, because then you will be painting your wheels all the time.
Thanks, I'm learning as I go, so I appreciate the explanation!
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:12 PM #19
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06+ Headlight Upgrade Coming Soon!
Old Headlights
My current headlights are severely cracked for some reason. Surprisingly, they don't leak and have never fogged! The headlights were like that when I bought it, and the dealer had them professionally polished and cleaned before I finally bought it. 4 years later the clear coat is cracking and peeling off, so I wanted to shine up these turds.


Polishing Headlights Fail
I tried to polish them using a Meguiar's Polishing kit that has worked well on the Sienna in the past, but I failed. Instead of using the Meguiar's headlight coating at the end, I wanted to clear coat them for extra protection. Well, I used a cheap clear coat and accidentally used semi-gloss on half of it. I must have done too thick of a coat as well, because the clear was cracking on me as it dried. Thankfully, the fogs got the gloss and the orange peel just needs to be polished off. For the new headlights, I'll be using the Eastwood 2 part 2k clear.


Projectors!
Because I screwed up on my current headlights, which were already on their last leg anyway, I set out on the hunt for some 06+ projectors. I managed to find a pair of really good condition locally for $70, they just needed to be polished. I'll be following this tutorial How to do the 03->06 Headlight Swap. so there is not much need for me to do a writeup on this one, unless someone wants to see my spin on it? I'll be sure to get good pictures for the build thread.

So far, I have ordered the headlights and bumper fillers, but still need to pull the trigger on the wiring adapters and pieces. I’m debating on opening them up and painting the shroud, but not sure. I’ve seen a few pictures of shrouds color matched to the exterior, and it looks good on the lighter paint colors like silver and white. Maybe that would also look good with the Dorado Gold? I don’t think black shrouds would look good with the band-aid color.


CV Axle and Seal Updates
It has been about 300 miles since I replaced the differential seal and RTV'd the front diff drain, and have been monitoring both about every time I go out. The drain plug was leaking a bit, so I tightened it a bit more. Now it doesn't leak anymore! Future me is going to hate current me for doing this, but thankfully I don't have the 10mm hex insert plug anymore. In the future, it would be a good idea to let the RTV cure fully before the final torque, as listed on the packaging. This would allow it to cure as a larger volume, and then be crushed down for better sealing.

Passenger Differential Seal: I wiped my finger under the seal and didn't feel any moisture or smell any gear oil on it.


RTV'd Drain Plug: Its kind of hard to see in the after picture, but there used to be a small little bubble of gear oil that would collect between the crush washer and the slight embossment in the diff. Now there isn't a bubble there. Its definitely not an end all be all solution, but it works for now. As mentioned before, I'm going to change the plug eventually.


Boots: While in there, I noticed that the inner boot was leaking a small amount of grease from the axle clamp, so I went back to tighten it up with the mini impact and wipe the grease away.


Back to School
So I'm now back at school and will probably not have as much time for 4runner frivolity. Thankfully, I am living in a little house with a driveway, so activities will not have to cease completely.

Here is a picture in a uhaul parking lot that I really liked for some reason. I've been doing a lot of work on it recently, and I'm proud of how much I have learned in the past few months. It's nice to look back and see it still in one piece lol.

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Old 08-13-2020, 02:43 PM #20
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Welding Project Tease
I forgot to put this in the previous post, but I wanted to tease a welding project that I've been working on before school starts. I mentioned in this post that I had picked up some metal to work on rebuilding the front skid mount. I am still planning on doing that, but this project is going to serve as a trial run before I get started welding something permanently to the 4runner. My skills aren't quite refined yet, the only things I've really welded were a seat bracket on the sienna that didn't have to be pretty, a nut on my front diff drain, and a crappy dirt bike stand. This project will be something simple to give me more experience before diving into the skid mount.

Here are some teaser pictures of the top secret learning-to-weld project. This will be an accessory to the 4runner and will work together with a hobby of mine, feel free to guess what it might be! I'm still learning, so I'm working on the fitment and weld quality. Don't worry, its not anything really structural.
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Old 09-06-2020, 05:58 PM #21
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Power Steering Flush | Return to Directory
This is the first project I've completed at school! Don't worry, I'm still working on the welding project too, it just takes a bit longer to get everything setup. I've been doing a lot of homework recently, and just wanted to do something quick this weekend as a break. The steering never felt excessivly tight or binding, I just wanted something to do. Here is the apartment setup:


Here are a few before shots of the PS fluid. My guess is the fluid is actual PS fluid and not the required ATF, it didn't smell like ATF and was pretty dark. I will be replacing it with Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic ATF, which meets the Dextron spec.


I used the little pump from a soap dispenser to remove as much old fluid as I could before adding the new fluid. The old stuff looks kinda red in this picture, but that must have been the lighting, it was pretty brownish yellow as seen in the next pictures.


When the fluid first came out, there was some grody whiteish fluid that initially came out of the reservoir. I didn't get any good pictures of it on the way out, but when pouring into a waste oil container, I snapped these after seeing some of the nastiness flow into the container. Unfortunately, most of what I am talking about already fell into the container.


I capped the PS return line with this little cap piece I whipped up. The return from the rack was then mated with a 3/8" splice barb to some 3/8" ID tubing down to an oil collection container. I ran the tubing through an opening in the radiator support and down between the bumper and radiator. Seems the theme of this project was not getting enough pictures, because I don't have any of the tube routing. Normally I overtake on pictures, but I guess I was wanting to get back to the homework grind today. it sucks having 4 assignments due after a 3 day weekend.


I jacked the front wheels off the ground, set the key to the on position, and filled the reservoir up as I turned the wheels. Seems lock to lock 2 times was enough to drain the reservoir completely, but I did every lock to lock just in case. I used about 2qts of the AFT. When I was done, disconnected my drain system and pushed the return hose back onto the reservoir. After cleaning out the soap dispenser, I pumped the fluid down to just under the Cold Max line.


I also figured a power steering flush wasn't much good without a lube of the steering U-Joint. Its pretty crusty and probably bottle-necking the steering feel, but as I mentioned, the steering isn't really bad and/or stiff. I used some spray white lithium grease, since its what I had on hand, and turned the wheel to several positions while spraying.


A/C Drain Relocation and Rust Mitigation 2 | Return to Directory
As many of us know, the A/C drain is not in an ideal location. It just drips on the frame and causes it to rust. A few weeks ago I got everything needle scaled down to bare metal, but never got time to paint it up.

Cleaning the Frame
Today, I wire wheeled and brushed the areas again to get it down to paintable metal. Thankfully there wasn't much to do, since working conditions at school are not as ideal as at home. Didn't get a good before picture today, accidentally started spraying first. I've included the one from needle scaling a few weeks ago.


After painting, it looks really good. There are some areas that got a tad pitted from the 15 years of abuse, but I'm not really worried about it.


Relocating the Drain
A 3/8" splice barb fits perfectly into the A/C drain hose. This was actually the same one I used to connect to the PS return, I just cleaned it out lol. I connected some extra 3/8" vinyl tubing from the power steering flush with the barb, and zip tied it in two spots to the frame. I'm missing a splash guard, so didn't have clearance issues with that. It also clears the tire without issue, probably because I'm still on 265/65r17s lol



A Few Random Updates
06+ Headlight Upgrade
I have all the parts, just waiting on the bulbs to show up. For some reason they have really slow shipping on Amazon and should be here 9/17. I also bought an LED interior light set and some brighter white LED reverse lights so I can actually see backing up.

4th Gen Maintenance Tutorials, Writeups, and Picture Threads
Just before school started and not many people had moved in yet, I was getting bored. I had the welding project to do on nice days, but it was getting kinda rainy. I have saved a few writeups in my bookmarks, and wanted to share them with everyone else. There was a similar thread stickied at one point, but it got unstickied at one point. I created this thread: 4th Gen Maintenance Tutorials, Writeups, and Picture Threads with an organization system to hopefully make finding information easier. It got a lot of likes, but unfortunately not a lot of general attention, so I fear it may die lol and no one will see it looking for maintenance help.

Job Fair: Toyota Racing Development
My school is hosting its annual (virtual) job fair for interships, and Toyota Racing Development has purchased a (virtual) booth. In the past, this was all in person, so I was planning to show printouts of my writeups and documented experiences as an end used of Toyota engineered products. Since this is virtual, not entirely sure how the process is going to work. Thankfully, a PDF resume can have hyperlinks to places like this forum, and I can link all of my work. Hopefully my previous internship experiences combined with my passion for learning and helping others will help me to be a good candidate!

edit: The TRD recruiters unforunatelty were lame HR reps that didn't seem to understand my interests in 4runners

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Old 09-06-2020, 07:37 PM #22
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I probably need to do the steering flush. At 156k and no clue if it's ever been done. I got the rig around 90k with no Toyota records. Seems whoever owned it did it at an independent shop because I found oil change stickers inside the door jamb, which was odd. Haven't encountered anything that seemed bad or neglected so I got lucky so far.

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Old 09-06-2020, 08:26 PM #23
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I probably need to do the steering flush. At 156k and no clue if it's ever been done. I got the rig around 90k with no Toyota records. Seems whoever owned it did it at an independent shop because I found oil change stickers inside the door jamb, which was odd. Haven't encountered anything that seemed bad or neglected so I got lucky so far.
Now that you mentioned it, I looked at the Toyota Owners site and the PS flush at 108k was one of 4 times its been to the dealer for maintenance lol. So unless another flush was done independently, that means that the old fluid was just really gross ATF. That particular time at the dealer was the "vital fluid analysis", so it got PS exchange, Trans flush (not exchange, but everything is going okay), diffs, tcase, throttle body cleaning, and spark plugs. Pretty sure I'm the third owner, and the POs did an okay job with upkeep. I'm documenting everything it has done, both at a shop and in my driveway, in a binder with receipts and details on the service completed.
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Old 09-06-2020, 09:26 PM #24
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Now that you mentioned it, I looked at the Toyota Owners site and the PS flush at 108k was one of 4 times its been to the dealer for maintenance lol. So unless another flush was done independently, that means that the old fluid was just really gross ATF. That particular time at the dealer was the "vital fluid analysis", so it got PS exchange, Trans flush (not exchange, but everything is going okay), diffs, tcase, throttle body cleaning, and spark plugs. Pretty sure I'm the third owner, and the POs did an okay job with upkeep. I'm documenting everything it has done, both at a shop and in my driveway, in a binder with receipts and details on the service completed.
Now spill the beans on the welding project!!! Bike rack? Tire carrier?

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Old 09-06-2020, 10:01 PM #25
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Now spill the beans on the welding project!!! Bike rack? Tire carrier?
Its top secret for now lol, but you're on the right track. It will be able to hold a tire of some sort, but it is neither a bike tire or a car tire.

I thought I was going to be able to finish it this weekend, but I ended up with 4 homework assignments due Tuesday. I did some work on it Saturday though, so its still coming along. Since I don't have a really good place to work, I have to drag my welding stuff outside and back when I work on it, which takes a while. I did the flush since it was quickish and I needed to break up the desk time. Hybrid online school sucks

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Old 09-06-2020, 10:27 PM #26
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Its top secret for now lol, but you're on the right track. It will be able to hold a tire of some sort, but it is neither a bike tire or a car tire.

I thought I was going to be able to finish it this weekend, but I ended up with 4 homework assignments due Tuesday. I did some work on it Saturday though, so its still coming along. Since I don't have a really good place to work, I have to drag my welding stuff outside and back when I work on it, which takes a while. I did the flush since it was quickish and I needed to break up the desk time. Hybrid online school sucks
I'll be looking out to see what it is. You have my curiosity.

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Old 09-06-2020, 10:30 PM #27
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Good write up. I highly recommend checking the PS hoses coming off the reservoir while you are at it. When I first got my 4R, I found that all the PS hoses attached to the reservoir were rock hard. That leads to leaks and other potential issues. I've since replaced all those hoses except the HP lines on the rack.
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FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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Old 09-06-2020, 10:51 PM #28
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Good write up. I highly recommend checking the PS hoses coming off the reservoir while you are at it. When I first got my 4R, I found that all the PS hoses attached to the reservoir were rock hard. That leads to leaks and other potential issues. I've since replaced all those hoses except the HP lines on the rack.
Good advice, I guess I only "checked" the return since I had it off. It felt nice and plyable, but shed a lot of black debris on my hand while trying to get it off the reservoir barb. I'll try and get back under there this weekend and check them all out, thanks!
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Old 09-06-2020, 11:00 PM #29
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Good advice, I guess I only "checked" the return since I had it off. It felt nice and plyable, but shed a lot of black debris on my hand while trying to get it off the reservoir barb. I'll try and get back under there this weekend and check them all out, thanks!
Yeah, my return line was leaking when I got the truck, huge mess at the reservoir from that. Then I found the large feed line from reservoir to pump was also rock hard so had to replace that. And if you follow the return line from the reservoir, it runs into a hard line and then back to a rubber line just behind the passenger headlight. THAT was also hard. Follow the hard line across the radiator to the driver side and it goes back to rubber line again. Also hard. So they all got replaced when I installed the aftermarket trans cooler and made the OEM trans cooler the power steering cooler.
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Old 09-06-2020, 11:04 PM #30
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Yeah, my return line was leaking when I got the truck, huge mess at the reservoir from that. Then I found the large feed line from reservoir to pump was also rock hard so had to replace that. And if you follow the return line from the reservoir, it runs into a hard line and then back to a rubber line just behind the passenger headlight. THAT was also hard. Follow the hard line across the radiator to the driver side and it goes back to rubber line again. Also hard. So they all got replaced when I installed the aftermarket trans cooler and made the OEM trans cooler the power steering cooler.
Thanks for the system overview, I'll get in there and follow all the lines! A trans cooler is on my to-do list also, I like the power steering cooler too
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