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Old 04-08-2021, 08:38 PM #106
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Nothing particularly interesting to update. This thread is mostly aimed to show the journey from being a 4runner newb, to wherever I end up, so I think its important to include some of the baby steps. I also want to documentation to exist for others that may have similar issues, like overheat on early 1GR, etc

Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.

Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.

Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval | Return to Directory

Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.


Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome


And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.


And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie


Also reached this fun number!


Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.

Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.

For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me

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Old 04-08-2021, 11:40 PM #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Nothing particularly interesting to update. This thread is mostly aimed to show the journey from being a 4runner newb, to wherever I end up, so I think its important to include some of the baby steps. I also want to documentation to exist for others that may have similar issues, like overheat on early 1GR, etc

Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.

Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.

Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval | Return to Directory

Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.


Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome


And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.


And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie


Also reached this fun number!


Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.

Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.

For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me

I’m seriously considering the 35x10.5 Kenda as my next tire. The wildpeaks still have plenty of life left though, so I’m not in a rush.


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Old 04-09-2021, 12:23 AM #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
I’m seriously considering the 35x10.5 Kenda as my next tire. The wildpeaks still have plenty of life left though, so I’m not in a rush.
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Get those tires already!.....lol.....you always say that to me.....
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Old 04-09-2021, 12:41 AM #109
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... but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me


You and me both, Y...
Dobinsons, bumper/winch, TRD wheels, & new tires imminent. Sheesh.
Somethin's gonna give. Hope it's not a heart valve.

The tires'll be 255/80R17s in Falken or Toyo, dependin' on what my local guy can do for me. Not a rock crawler, I like narrower tires for cuttin' through mud and snow to hardpan. Helped in WY a fair bit.

Abby looks great for her age!
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Old 04-09-2021, 10:13 AM #110
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Get those tires already!.....lol.....you always say that to me.....

Touché sir, these wildpeaks are wearing like iron. I’ve got about 20k on them and they still look pretty much new. Suppose I could always buy the new and sell these......

Unlike you I have the V6 though, so I’m worried about the MPG hit going from P rated 285 (51 lbs a tire) to the E load 35’s (67 lbs a tire).


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Old 04-09-2021, 10:15 AM #111
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Quote:
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You and me both, Y...
Dobinsons, bumper/winch, TRD wheels, & new tires imminent. Sheesh.
Somethin's gonna give. Hope it's not a heart valve.

The tires'll be 255/80R17s in Falken or Toyo, dependin' on what my local guy can do for me. Not a rock crawler, I like narrower tires for cuttin' through mud and snow to hardpan. Helped in WY a fair bit.

Abby looks great for her age!

I’ve been looking at pizza cutters also, I would likely do the Toyo RT 255/80/17. 33” and 56 lbs not bad. Price isn’t too hard to swallow either.


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Old 04-09-2021, 10:18 AM #112
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I’ve been looking at pizza cutters also, I would likely do the Toyo RT 255/80/17. 33” and 56 lbs not bad. Price isn’t too hard to swallow either.


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Try Kenda Klever R/T they have a 35” 10.5 tire


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Old 04-09-2021, 12:05 PM #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Nothing particularly interesting to update. This thread is mostly aimed to show the journey from being a 4runner newb, to wherever I end up, so I think its important to include some of the baby steps. I also want to documentation to exist for others that may have similar issues, like overheat on early 1GR, etc

Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.

Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.

Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval | Return to Directory

Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.


Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome


And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.


And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie


Also reached this fun number!


Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.

Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.

For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me
Not that hard to find if you buy it online

https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella.../dp/B07MSQ6TP2

I have been a fan of Rotella oils for a while now. I prefer the Rotella T6 full synthetic tho. Shell seems to have discovered that people like the oil so much and run it in so many different vehicles than what it was intended for, they are now making a T6 multi-vehicle version of it in 5w30. The regular T6 is 5w40 but works fine in all engines. I've used it in motorcycles and all my 4 wheeled vehicles, including my daughter's 2013 Tacoma.

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod...eavy-duty.html

Sorry, not trying to turn this into an oil thread!
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Old 04-09-2021, 04:45 PM #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
I’m seriously considering the 35x10.5 Kenda as my next tire. The wildpeaks still have plenty of life left though, so I’m not in a rush.
Quote:
Originally Posted by momo.75 View Post
Get those tires already!.....lol.....you always say that to me.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
Touché sir, these wildpeaks are wearing like iron. I’ve got about 20k on them and they still look pretty much new. Suppose I could always buy the new and sell these......

Unlike you I have the V6 though, so I’m worried about the MPG hit going from P rated 285 (51 lbs a tire) to the E load 35’s (67 lbs a tire).
I've got 18k on my wildpeaks and they're also wearing fairly well too, no real reason to get rid of them other than the lift. I'd like to avoid the little tires with increased height, but I'm not opposed to rocking it for a little bit.

Theres a brand new set of the Kenda Klever full width 35x12.50s for sale an hour away from me, which is probably not a good idea, but its tempting lol. I am liking the 10.50 width more and more, so I'm looking into those

Also v6 gang, so I'd be looking at regearing pretty soon after any big boi tires. Right now until at least June, I'll be doing a lot of highway driving, so not keen on making the drivability much worse. Lot of choices to make

Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Not that hard to find if you buy it online

Amazon.com: Shell Rotella - 550050319 Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil for Pickups and SUVs (5-Quart, Pack of 1): Automotive

I have been a fan of Rotella oils for a while now. I prefer the Rotella T6 full synthetic tho. Shell seems to have discovered that people like the oil so much and run it in so many different vehicles than what it was intended for, they are now making a T6 multi-vehicle version of it in 5w30. The regular T6 is 5w40 but works fine in all engines. I've used it in motorcycles and all my 4 wheeled vehicles, including my daughter's 2013 Tacoma.

Full Synthetic Diesel Oil | Shell ROTELLA(R) T6 Multi-Vehicle | Shell ROTELLA(R)

Sorry, not trying to turn this into an oil thread!
When I want my oil, I want it now!!!!! I've seen it cheap online before, so price might be up now, but $34 is a lot of monies vs $18 in walmart

I'm a fan of the Shell Rotella Gas truck, so I hope its no phasing out of Walmart. I'll look into the T6

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Thing View Post


You and me both, Y...
Dobinsons, bumper/winch, TRD wheels, & new tires imminent. Sheesh.
Somethin's gonna give. Hope it's not a heart valve.

The tires'll be 255/80R17s in Falken or Toyo, dependin' on what my local guy can do for me. Not a rock crawler, I like narrower tires for cuttin' through mud and snow to hardpan. Helped in WY a fair bit.

Abby looks great for her age!
hahaha, yeah its getting spendy. Sounds like you have a lot of goodies in store! I usually like wide tires, but those 35x10.5 may have swayed me onto the skinny tire train

Abby used to chase a tennis ball every day for a half hour+ and walk 3-4 times a day, so shes in good shape. As shes gotten older, one of her back legs doesn't like running as much. Although if given the opportunity, she would run until it falls off, kick it to the side, and keep running some more lol

Last edited by y=mx+b; 04-09-2021 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 04-09-2021, 05:21 PM #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
When I want my oil, I want it now!!!!! I've seen it cheap online before, so price might be up now, but $34 is a lot of monies vs $18 in walmart

I'm a fan of the Shell Rotella Gas truck, so I hope its no phasing out of Walmart. I'll look into the T6
$34 at WallyWorld as well for the 5 quart bottle. At least online.

Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30, 5 Quart - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

$26/1 gallon bottle online at WallyWorld for the T6 5w30 Multi-vehicle stuff.

Shell Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon (Single) - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

$22 for the regular 5w40 T6 stuff.

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil, 1 gal - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

I usually buy a gallon or 2 when I see it on sale somewhere. The V8 4runner takes about 6 quarts with filter.
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Old 04-09-2021, 05:40 PM #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
$34 at WallyWorld as well for the 5 quart bottle. At least online.

Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30, 5 Quart - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

$26/1 gallon bottle online at WallyWorld for the T6 5w30 Multi-vehicle stuff.

Shell Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon (Single) - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

$22 for the regular 5w40 T6 stuff.

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil, 1 gal - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

I usually buy a gallon or 2 when I see it on sale somewhere. The V8 4runner takes about 6 quarts with filter.
Crap well maybe the price is going up danggit lol. Yeah I'll be looking at the T6 and like you mentioned, people like it for bikes too, so would be nice to have everything running the same stuff and just have it around
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Old 04-13-2021, 12:01 AM #117
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Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Crap well maybe the price is going up danggit lol. Yeah I'll be looking at the T6 and like you mentioned, people like it for bikes too, so would be nice to have everything running the same stuff and just have it around
Rip off! Kirkland Signature 5w-30 FTW!
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2006 4Runner Sport Edition V8 4WD
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Old 04-26-2021, 06:11 PM #118
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Front Skid: T-case and Oil Pan | Return to Directory
I was waiting to post all of the pictures until I was finally finished, and I finally got all the welding done this weekend. I've got a lot of pictures to share, so this may be a long one

After my stock height off roading, the skids had certainly seen better days:

This was after the snowy and rocky AOAA trip


This bolt ripped out of the frame after Wolf Den, but the mud held it in the hanger lol


Here are the skids off, can see there's a tad bit of damage


So as a project and to save some money, I decided I would make some skids. I picked up 3ftx6ft of 3/16" plate from Metal Supermarkets. Pro tip: duct tape the edges so they don't cut your hands or your interior


To begin, I cut myself out a piece the rough dimensions of the front underside and some blocks to space down from the diff mounting arms. These blocks are 1/8" wall 2" square tube with 1/8" plate welded on top


I also knew I wanted it to be as high clearance as possible, so I cut a hole for the diff to pass through and bent the plate to match the height difference between the mid and rear crossmembers of the front skid. To bend, I scored the plate with a grinder, then clamped two boards on either side of the piece, and bent it to fit.




I then bent it the opposite way to fit up with the rearward crossmember. I kept the scores on the inside of the skid to reduce the amount of grinding/beautification I would have to do in the end, because it was angled up. Not a huge loss, but could have been better


Next, cutting a piece for the front. I kept this as a separate piece to try and make construction simpler. The top angle piece is bent as well, and this one was particularly hard because it was too slim to really get a good grasp on.

Here was also a potential improvement for clearance that I may make in the future. I miscalculated that the angled piece would be further forward when it reached the tip of the front diff arm


And here is the first look at the full skid underneath the 4runner. At this time, the weight is 37lbs
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Old 04-26-2021, 06:11 PM #119
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Front Skid: T-case and Oil Pan (Continued)
The next weekend, I got started on the diff bumpout cover





Because of the shape of the rearward crossmember, I needed to make some spacers. I ended up doing 3 of these 3/16" donuts higher. In hindsight, I should have made some little risers like the front had, just out of smaller material. Then I would have the bolt head below the surface


Next, I used some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to make the side gussets


These had to be clearanced on the passenger side for the LCA mount, but not on the driver side. I stared at these a while to try and figure out of the mounts themselves are different, and I think they are




I got caught up with a few other things on the weekends, so I didn't get back to this for another two weeks. Consequently, I didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked

Next up was drilling the oil drain hole with a 2" hole saw. I made some marks with a sharpie in the x and y directions, then connected them with straight lines. And that method turned out to be fairly inaccurate, since my plug was splitting the line on my hole


Thankfully, I could just weld the cookie back in and try again. That is one big advantage to metal


Around this time, both of the holes I'd been using for the main mounts on the 2" blocks happened to strip out. I really should have expected this, since I already drilled and retapped them from when the stock bolts broke. There must have been some old bolt chunks that loosened up. Thankfully, the stock m8 weld nuts were able to be drilled and tapped to m10. I used one of those "impact rated" Milwaukee drill taps and it went smoothly until it didn't. The drill tap broke off in the hole!! I was being very careful back and forth to clear chips because I was skeptical of these, in addition to using my old and weak little 12v impact. Thankfully, it loosened up with a few hits with the needle scaler and wasn't really stuck in there. I was trying to disintegrate it with the needle scaler hits, but was able to just unscrew it with vice grips. I hate tapping holes upside down, and was really hoping this would be a good solution


Once that was resolved, I went to make some gussets for the plate. I didn't really get good pictures of this process, but I used the CAD to make templates and copy them to the plate. Two up on the front, two under/next to the pan, and one sideways one. I was scared to do one under the pan, as I didn't want one coming up and hitting it, but also wanted that area to be strong. I ended up using a little gusset there to hopefully meet both goals. the sideways one I put on there just as an experiment, since I don't usually see a lot of skids with one in this direction but its a long flat span


Front here, I was ready to begin finish welding. I started with the mounting blocks and the diff cover. I'm getting better at rounding my corners, which really helps to visually clean things up. These were also media blasted for fun, so thats why they are matte looking.
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Old 04-26-2021, 06:12 PM #120
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Front Skid: T-case and Oil Pan (Continued)
Before fully finish welding, I decided I needed some bolt protection for the rear bolts. Two layers of 3/16" was the perfect height to cover the bolt head, and I did two layers like stair steps to hopefully help it go over rocks easier. The interior area is large enough for the head, socket, and a decent amount of wiggle room


This is again where come clearance could be improved with making a tube block for the bolt to rest inside. Can see how both needs spacers on the back and protection on the top make it a tall arrangement. If these would sit below the plate surface, then that would be better for clearance. Oh well, its not terrible


And finally finished welded all the way. I ground all of the outside welds, and left the inside ones since no one will see them. Next step is to paint, and then it will be ready for install!


These are some welds that I thought looked good. Feel free to give constructive advice, as I'm always learning. Overall, not bad for the Harbor Freight Buzz box. It's the Titanium EasyFlux 125. Moving to a 20amp outlet from a 15amp really helped to minimize the trips to the breaker




I'll update with more pics once its painted and installed

Last edited by y=mx+b; 04-26-2021 at 06:44 PM.
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