Hi all

I have the 2005 Toyota Prado (same as 4Runner basically). Manual and Haynes say to remove the front diff to get at the oil pans. Oil Pan no. 2 seems to have a leaky gasket but it LOOKS like I can probably unbolt it and manouevre it past the driveshaft to clean it up and reseal it. Has anyone attempted this before? Does the pickup get in the way of what I am trying to accomplish? Once had an Alfa where I had to unbolt the oil pan, then leave it kind of sitting on a drive shaft while I unbolted the pickup, and then could get both out... with reinstallation the opposite. Means I can't get the torque wrench on the pickup but can probably get it by feel. Interested in what others have done?

This is the sump of which I speak:

Oil sump 2 - Album on Imgur

I can't help with advice on the R&R....but before I did the job I would first clean all the oil off with brake cleaner and rags and then drive it a while so you know exactly where your leak is before trying to fix the leak, with oil leaks the oil can be leaking from above, like at the rear of the valve covers, but looks like it's leaking at the bottom, also leaking oil does get blown into many areas that aren't actually leaking by wind and the cooling fan while driving.

My thoughts exactly.

When I got my 4runner I didn't realize it had an oil pressure issue brought about by sludging of the engine from lack of maintenance. One step I took to fix the issue was to pull the small pan and clean out all the sludge at the bottom, twice. I also pulled the pickup as the screen had oil that turned into plastic impregnated in it. Somehow the motor survived and does not burn oil.

I don't recall having any issues dropping the small pan except for getting it to separate from the pan above it. That took a putty knife and hammer plus gentle persuasion, maybe some cussing and bloody knuckles too.

As for torquing, I went with the by feel method. Not much I actually use my torque wrench on these days. Been wrenching too long to bother except for heads and such.

I'm kinda surprised it's leaking between the 2 pans as mine seemed almost welded in place.

Thanks Mike, appreciate that. Did the pan position look similar to the pic I posted? Slotted between driveshaft and chassis rail?

Potentially the oil pan itself isn't leaking if it's as sealed as it sounds like yours was. As others have suggested, I should really clean up the entire bottom end and then isolate the leak!

It's been awhile since I looked at it but I think it's the same. Keep us posted as I'm curious with what you find.

I found the oil dip stick tube oring split. The FIPG on both the pan and the sump pan are bullet proof if installed correctly. My money is on a $1 oring.

Pretty sure you can wiggle it out, don't recall removing the front diff when I went on a OCD chasing leaks.

Wort case scenario you have to remove the oil pickup strainer.

I'm planning to remove and clean the sump on mine this summer, as it's still dumping sludge from the original owner's negligence as shown in the pics.

At each oil change (5K miles on Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5W-30, or regular Pennzoil High Mileage) I put the passenger side wheels on ramps to tilt the vehicle toward the drain plug. Let the oil drain completely, then push ~1/2 quart of fresh oil down the dipstick tube (high side of engine with the vehicle tilted) at high pressure w/ my fluid pump gun.

This washes clean oil across the oil pan floor and pushes out sludge flecks as shown on the paper towel laid across the oil drain pan. The towel goes on after draining, so that's what was still in the pan after the old oil came out. Gross. The other two pics are the cut open oil filter, and the contents poured through a coffee filter...ground up sludge. I get this every single oil change, so the sump needs to come out for a good cleaning.

164K miles of the original owner changing oil at ~20K mile intervals according to CarFax, then sold to me for cheap w/ a stretched timing chain and unable to pass state inspection due to the check engine light.

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