01-02-2022, 08:57 PM
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#76
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: NH
Posts: 34
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: NH
Posts: 34
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After reading your great write up (love the pictures) I went outside to check the condition of the tank straps on my 2009 4Runner. Luckily mine are fairly clean and minimal rust. I’m in NH so rust is enemy No. 1. I am going to completely DRENCH the straps with Fluid Film in hopes of never having to replace them.
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01-05-2022, 04:51 PM
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#77
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Dallas
Posts: 17
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Dallas
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This is great thanks for posting!
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01-05-2022, 04:52 PM
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#78
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Dallas
Posts: 17
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Location: Dallas
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Thanks for posting this I'll definitely use this later
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01-13-2022, 01:35 AM
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#79
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Indiana
Posts: 15
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Location: Indiana
Posts: 15
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Would be sure to do the fuel pump while its down if you have a good amount of miles on it.
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01-13-2022, 11:32 AM
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#80
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,032
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Replacing the straps doesn't requiring dropping the tank. If the tank had to come out, I'd think about it, but that would be a little more invasive than this project requires
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02-12-2022, 03:46 PM
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#81
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
Posts: 79
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
Posts: 79
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I just did this job too but , just used flat bar and bent it to same shape and welded the ends on , toyota wanted like $200 (cdn) per strap yes EACH and they were week away in US , was not paying that anyways they crazy
Last edited by caper; 02-12-2022 at 04:21 PM.
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02-12-2022, 03:50 PM
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#82
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
Posts: 79
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
Posts: 79
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Few pics
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02-12-2022, 04:20 PM
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#83
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
Posts: 79
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Mac AB / Cape Breton NS
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Cost me like $5 in flat bar and an extra hour than if i had new straps sitting there ,
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02-12-2022, 09:35 PM
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#84
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper
I just did this job too but , just used flat bar and bent it to same shape and welded the ends on , toyota wanted like $200 (cdn) per strap yes EACH and they were week away in US , was not paying that anyways they crazy
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Dude that's awesome! Great work and saving money is always great too!
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02-13-2022, 02:35 PM
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#85
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: TX
Posts: 84
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: TX
Posts: 84
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I used this guide when I was upgrading my skid to an RCI skid, and seeing how well this was put together I replaced my straps too. Mine wasn't an issue yet, with only one spot getting a little crunchy, but I'm glad I did.
I ended up breaking one of the frame bolts so now it matches the existing missing bolt head from when I bought it (1st and 3rd from front). I've considered buying a welder after seeing how y=mx+b has recovered bolts welding on a nut, but I'm not sure if the tank being right there is a concern. Maybe I just need to wrap some foil on it lol
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02-13-2022, 04:26 PM
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#86
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdef
I used this guide when I was upgrading my skid to an RCI skid, and seeing how well this was put together I replaced my straps too. Mine wasn't an issue yet, with only one spot getting a little crunchy, but I'm glad I did.
I ended up breaking one of the frame bolts so now it matches the existing missing bolt head from when I bought it (1st and 3rd from front). I've considered buying a welder after seeing how y=mx+b has recovered bolts welding on a nut, but I'm not sure if the tank being right there is a concern. Maybe I just need to wrap some foil on it lol
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If you're welding a nut bolt near the tank, you can cover it in a leather or fiberglass fire blanket. Closet one I welded was the bolt on the rear brake line bracket right above the tank, although this one still had the head, it was just rounded off. If it is one of the tank skid bolts, it is kinda hard to weld a nut on what is left while upside down. I've found drilling the whole thing out and replacing with a flanged weld-nut is easier
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02-21-2022, 06:45 AM
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#87
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Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 9
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Very helpful post! May need to do this at some point soon.
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02-21-2022, 07:24 PM
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#88
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: TX
Posts: 84
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Join Date: Nov 2021
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Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b
If you're welding a nut bolt near the tank, you can cover it in a leather or fiberglass fire blanket. Closet one I welded was the bolt on the rear brake line bracket right above the tank, although this one still had the head, it was just rounded off. If it is one of the tank skid bolts, it is kinda hard to weld a nut on what is left while upside down. I've found drilling the whole thing out and replacing with a flanged weld-nut is easier
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I wasn't sure if doing a weld inside a nut while upside was possible- I hoped it would be at least. If drilling it out, why is a weld-nut better than just cleaning the threads and adding a new bolt?
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02-21-2022, 08:11 PM
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#89
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdef
I wasn't sure if doing a weld inside a nut while upside was possible- I hoped it would be at least. If drilling it out, why is a weld-nut better than just cleaning the threads and adding a new bolt?
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If you don't drill it out perfectly centered, then you can eat into the threads with the drill and it won't hold the bolt as well. That's what happened to me, so my threads were messed up and it was easier to weld in a new threaded weld nut
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03-02-2022, 07:54 PM
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#90
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: TX
Posts: 84
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Join Date: Nov 2021
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I hadn't heard of those until now, and looking at pics they seem to have a flange. If that sits above the frame surface, won't that prove problematic for a skid to sit flush, or am I picturing this wrong?
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