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Old 07-28-2021, 06:37 AM #61
Kbeanz3330 Kbeanz3330 is offline
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Wow that frame looks great after! I gotta do that to mine..
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Old 07-29-2021, 12:09 PM #62
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My mechanic said I need new fuel tank straps. I ordered them online and received them just last week. I thought it would be a matter of a couple bolts! D'oh!! I think I'll take these straps with me on my next visit to the mechanic.
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Old 07-29-2021, 12:46 PM #63
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Originally Posted by SparkyWalnuts View Post
My mechanic said I need new fuel tank straps. I ordered them online and received them just last week. I thought it would be a matter of a couple bolts! D'oh!! I think I'll take these straps with me on my next visit to the mechanic.
Once the skid plate is off, its only 2 bolts lol
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Old 08-02-2021, 12:27 PM #64
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wow beautiful post. hope this helps many users on here.
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Old 08-04-2021, 05:04 PM #65
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I’m on it

Followed. Just bought an old 03 and noticed these straps were looking haggard. Thanks for the timely tutorial!!
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Old 08-04-2021, 05:14 PM #66
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Originally Posted by JJRunner03 View Post
Followed. Just bought an old 03 and noticed these straps were looking haggard. Thanks for the timely tutorial!!
Congrats on the purchase! Theres a collection of writeups here: 4th Gen Maintenance Tutorials, Writeups, and Picture Threads that may help give some insight into other jobs you may find while getting maintenance up to speed.

Let me know if you have any questions about the fuel tank straps and I'd be happy to help
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Old 08-06-2021, 01:06 PM #67
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Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Introduction
Hello All, just replaced the fuel tank straps on my crustnado of a 4runner. The rear strap was rusted through and the front was barely hanging on, causing the tank to sit directly on the skid. I tried to grab as many pictures as I could along the way, let me know if you have any questions!

Before and After


Step Directory (Jumps in Current Tab)
Parts | Return to Steps
  • Fuel Tank Straps- I purchased the LILAND GLOBAL Fuel Tank Straps from Rock Auto. I chose them since they were powder coated, rather than the bare option from Spectra Premium.
  • Tank Strap Hanger Pin- One of my strap pins was in almost perfect condition, the other was all rusty. I got one new pin, it is PN 77653-35040.
  • Tank Strap Cotter Pin- I lost one of the cotter pins for the hanger, so picked up 2 small stainless cotter pins from the hardware store to replace them
  • Tank Strap Sleeves- Ideally these can be reused, but if you need new ones, the part numbers are 77681-35031 and 77681-35041.
  • M8 Bolts- If its rusty enough to break through some straps, there is a chance you could break off some hardware too. The skid bolts are m8x1.25 and any length 15-25mm will work.
  • M10 Bolts- The strap bolts are m10x1.25, and any length around 30mm will fit great.



Tools | Return to Steps
  • Safety Glasses- No rust chunks in your eyes on my watch!
  • Floor Jack
  • Wheel Chock
  • 2-3 Jack Stands- I made it work with 2, but 3 would be helpful.
  • 2 Ratchet Straps
  • 12mm and 14mm Sockets with Ratchet
  • 12mm Wrench
  • Pliers
  • Plastic Wire Brush
  • Wire Brush or Wheel

Consumables | Return to Steps
  • Penetrating Fluid- I use 50/50 acetone and atf that I mixed in an oil dropper
  • Degreaser
  • Paper Towels
  • Sandpaper
  • POR15 or other Rust Converter
  • Paint
  • Zip Ties
  • Anti-seize


Step 1: Consume as Much Fuel as Possible | Return to Steps
I got it down to an 1/8 of a tank of fuel, but then I forgot I was trying to drop the tank and almost filled it all of the way up. Ended up getting it down to just below half a tank before getting started. Also noticed how dirty my gauge cluster is now...


Step 2: Jack Vehicle and Remove Rear Tire | Return to Steps
One of the tank straps is a bit hidden in the driver's side rear wheel well. I chocked up the front passenger wheel, jacked it from the rear axle, set it on stands, and removed that wheel. Chocking your wheels is especially important if the rear wheels come off the ground, since the parking break break won't be there to help!


Step 3: Apply Penetrating Fluid to All Bolts | Return to Steps
If you rusted through a skid plate strap and need to replace it, there's a good chance you have some rusty bolts too. Soak them down with penetrating fluid, you need to do everything in your power to prevent them from breaking. There are 6 skid bolts total, and their locations are marked in the 3rd picture below


Step 4: Secure Tank with Ratchet Straps | Return to Steps
It's safe to assume that if one tank strap is broken, the other is either broken too, or on the way. I used ratchet straps to hold the tank, so I could drop the skid. Snaking the straps through was not too difficult, I just needed to try several routes to get them across. The hanging loops in the pictures are just there to show how I routed the strap before tightening it, all the slack was pulled out when they were secured.

Each strap was fed in through on the frame side of the tank, where the tank straps enter the skid. Don't worry about the ratchet straps overlapping the tank straps, we will adjust those later.

Front Strap
Here is how I snaked the front strap through the skid:


After I made it across the skid, I could then secure the ratchet strap on both sides. The hook side of the strap was attached to a little bracket for the parking brake cable.


The slack side of the strap was fed through this hole in the subframe, over the exhaust pipe and opposite side frame, then to the frame with the ratchet end.


Rear Strap
Here is how I snaked the rear strap through the skid:


Pro Tip: Since the rear strap was broken, it was a bit harder to feed it through. Sometimes it wouldn't go in one way, but would go in reverse. You can back feed the ratchet strap, tape the end to the section that needs to pass through, then pull the end through bringing the rest of the strap with it.


The hook end was secured to the little bracket that holds the rear tank strap.


The slack end was snaked over the drive shaft, muffler and frame, redirected around the body mount, and secured with the ratchet end to a drain hole in the frame.
Thanks for these instructions! I am starting on this project myself. I started loosening the 14mm bolt and then all of a sudden it started getting tighter. Is it stripped? Any tips for removing it?
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Old 08-06-2021, 05:30 PM #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toystory2 View Post
Thanks for these instructions! I am starting on this project myself. I started loosening the 14mm bolt and then all of a sudden it started getting tighter. Is it stripped? Any tips for removing it?
Usually when a bolt starts getting tighter after it is loosen is because of rust on the threads which starts jamming up the threads in the threaded hole or nut as the rust starts loosening on the bolt, the best way to try and relieve this is to loosen it until it start getting tight/jams up then tightening it a bit until it gets loose again to help push some of the loosened rust back out of the threads in the hole/nut, then loosen the bolt some more until it starts jamming up again, rinse and repeat as many time as needed until you get the bolt out, also all the while doing this loosening and re-tightening spray generous amounts of penetrating spray to help move the loosened rust out of the threads, I usually do the spraying after the re-tightening to help move the loosened rust out of the threads.

If you don't do the above on rusted bolts you will most likely break the bolt.
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Old 08-06-2021, 07:33 PM #69
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Thanks for these instructions! I am starting on this project myself. I started loosening the 14mm bolt and then all of a sudden it started getting tighter. Is it stripped? Any tips for removing it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
Usually when a bolt starts getting tighter after it is loosen is because of rust on the threads which starts jamming up the threads in the threaded hole or nut as the rust starts loosening on the bolt, the best way to try and relieve this is to loosen it until it start getting tight/jams up then tightening it a bit until it gets loose again to help push some of the loosened rust back out of the threads in the hole/nut, then loosen the bolt some more until it starts jamming up again, rinse and repeat as many time as needed until you get the bolt out, also all the while doing this loosening and re-tightening spray generous amounts of penetrating spray to help move the loosened rust out of the threads, I usually do the spraying after the re-tightening to help move the loosened rust out of the threads.

If you don't do the above on rusted bolts you will most likely break the bolt.
Yep, the way @AuSeeker said it is whats going on. Also try putting a bit of penetrating fluid on the threads from the top side if you can get in there. For the front strap bolt threads, you can kinda ghost shoot some in through the frame hole. The rear strap bolt threads are visible. Soak them well
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:38 PM #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
Usually when a bolt starts getting tighter after it is loosen is because of rust on the threads which starts jamming up the threads in the threaded hole or nut as the rust starts loosening on the bolt, the best way to try and relieve this is to loosen it until it start getting tight/jams up then tightening it a bit until it gets loose again to help push some of the loosened rust back out of the threads in the hole/nut, then loosen the bolt some more until it starts jamming up again, rinse and repeat as many time as needed until you get the bolt out, also all the while doing this loosening and re-tightening spray generous amounts of penetrating spray to help move the loosened rust out of the threads, I usually do the spraying after the re-tightening to help move the loosened rust out of the threads.

If you don't do the above on rusted bolts you will most likely break the bolt.
Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:41 PM #71
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Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Yep, the way @AuSeeker said it is whats going on. Also try putting a bit of penetrating fluid on the threads from the top side if you can get in there. For the front strap bolt threads, you can kinda ghost shoot some in through the frame hole. The rear strap bolt threads are visible. Soak them well
I’ve been hitting with it with Blaster, but I’ll try your suggestion and try to hit those threads. Appreciate the tip!
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Old 11-16-2021, 09:43 PM #72
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Thank you for the write up. Will be tackling this very shortly after parts arrive. Wish me luck!
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Old 11-17-2021, 03:07 PM #73
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Thank you for the write up. Will be tackling this very shortly after parts arrive. Wish me luck!
Good luck dude! Let me know how it goes!
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Old 12-24-2021, 02:43 PM #74
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Is it safe to still drive around with the rear strap rotted thru?

Is it still ok to fill the tank all the way?

Just checked mine and saw at least the rear strap totally rusted and not attached. I have been filling up for few years now and never really checked until now and the tank hasnt dropped out.

Should the skid plate hold everything up for a while until I get to it or sell the thing?

Not sure if I want to tackle this or not. Every bolt on my truck has been so rusted and seized. A simple job ends up costing me a small fortune.
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Old 12-24-2021, 04:08 PM #75
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Is it safe to still drive around with the rear strap rotted thru?

Is it still ok to fill the tank all the way?

Just checked mine and saw at least the rear strap totally rusted and not attached. I have been filling up for few years now and never really checked until now and the tank hasnt dropped out.

Should the skid plate hold everything up for a while until I get to it or sell the thing?

Not sure if I want to tackle this or not. Every bolt on my truck has been so rusted and seized. A simple job ends up costing me a small fortune.
If your fuel tank skid is in tact, it will also help to support the fuel tank
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