In North America, "Full Synthetic" is marketing BS. To determine what base stock the oil was made from, you have to know the "group number":
Base Oil Groups Explained
I'll skip re-hashing a lot of the baloney, Bobistheoilguy forum talks about it pretty well in this thread:
So group III oils aren't really synthetic? | Bob Is The Oil Guy
I've tried a couple of group 4 and group 5 oils in various Toyotas I've owned over the years with mixed success. My Supra's 7M-GTE burned redline's 5W30 at an alarming rate. But a group3 Mobil1 rarely burned at all except on track days.
Castrol GTX 5W30 from costco made the valve train of my 5VZ-FE loud enough you could hear it in the cab. There was a local place that manufactured engine oil in Calgary... I don't recall the name right now, but their oil was even cheaper than Costco's Castrol... and the valve train was very quiet running that oil and the ol' boat anchor never burned it either.
Unfortunately there's alot of snake oil and voodoo around engine oil marketing, everyone thinks they have the best stuff... Lucas used to tour the pits in Indy, back in the 60's/70's, and give racers $100 for a picture of them pouring their oil into the crank case. But no racers wanted to run that sludge in their motors so they'd keep a bottle in the fridge and someone would distract the Lucas reps while the mechanic swapped the bottle, then they'd leave it upside down over the oil fill... stuff was like molasses while cold and would never leave the bottle. Easy hundred bucks.
If the shop does my oil change, the truck gets Motul. If I do it, I generally put Mobil1 in (good price, easy to find, trusted). Right now I'm trying Royal Purple because apparently it has some crazy detergents that clean up an engine pretty good. Either it'll grenade the motor or it'll be spotless inside... one of the two. But the 2UZ appears to burn Royal Purple pretty readily. I'm not sure it's going to make the whole oil change interval.
To sum up... almost everything on the shelf that's reasonably priced is going to be a group 3: Pennzoil, Mobil1, Castrol, probably Rotella, etc. Group 4 & 5 oils (that are actually "
Full Synthetic")like Royal Purple, Redline, etc are mega expensive. If a label says "Full Synthetic" and you don't swear looking at the price tag, it's more than likely a group 3 blend, and marketing bullshit. But that does
not make it a bad product... just it's not what advertisements and keyboard warriors make it out to be. And that's really the point I'm trying to make: People talk about "full synthetic" like it means something, and then proceed to specify a semi-synthetic blend... clearly, advertising is much more important than science in this market...
My experience has been that all my Toyotas run best on a group 3 like Mobil1. Though Pennzoil Platinum gives similar results, I'm often able to find Mobil1 on sale at Crappy Tire.
To get the best out of the oil, consider a dual bypass filter like a trasco. I'm not such a fan of any remote mount oil system that adds lines, like an amsoil remote-mount dual bypass filter head... because obviously the lines are an additional point of failure.