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Old 07-29-2020, 05:30 PM #1
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Transmission Replacement

Hi all,

I have a 2008 4runner sport with 152k on it. I love it, but got the CEL (P2714) and VSC lights last week, and feared the worst based on high idle speeds and sluggish gear shifts the last week or so. Took it to the dealer and they're saying I need a new transmission (along with new radiator and cv joint). I'm torn as I have no intention to move on from the care, but not sure I want to put 5-6k into it. Any thoughts on what I should be paying for these repairs or just upgrade to a TRD Pro?

Thanks
Chris
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Old 07-29-2020, 05:43 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinillini View Post
Hi all,

I have a 2008 4runner sport with 152k on it. I love it, but got the CEL (P2714) and VSC lights last week, and feared the worst based on high idle speeds and sluggish gear shifts the last week or so. Took it to the dealer and they're saying I need a new transmission (along with new radiator and cv joint). I'm torn as I have no intention to move on from the care, but not sure I want to put 5-6k into it. Any thoughts on what I should be paying for these repairs or just upgrade to a TRD Pro?

Thanks
Chris
There seems to be issues with the connector that attaches to the tranny on the 5speeds. They can get corroded and fail. Worth looking into, here's a video on the issue. I don't recall seeing these trannies failing much.

Bad Toyota Transmission..Can We Fix It For Free? - YouTube
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:45 PM #3
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If it does end up needing a whole new transmission, I would look into buying a used one from LKQ or somewhere similar. They are ~$750 with shipping and you could have a local mechanic do the install instead of the dealership.

I would also recommend doing the CV axle and radiator yourself if you have the tools/time/space. Both are straightforward and easy repairs that cost a lot in labor at a mechanic. Youtube and this forum will show you exactly how to do it.
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:05 PM #4
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Fault code p2714 2005 V8 SR5.

P2714 Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance Or Stuck Off

P2714: Pressure Control Solenoid 'D' Performance or Stuck Off OBD-II Trouble Code
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:35 PM #5
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Transmission Help!!!

Hello!

Before you look into getting a new transmission hear me out! I have recently come across the same troubles as you. Took mine into the dealer and was told I would need the same thing. This just happened on the 25th. I was outraged because I had the dealer in my home state of Washington drain and fill my trans fluid less than 10,000 miles ago(Drain and fill was at 153,000 and car currently has 159,000) because I was moving to Colorado. Upon further review, it looks like my dealership in Washington only charged me for 2 quarts of transmission fluid and there is no charge for a new filter on there either. Im going to a transmission expert that I have worked with in the past in the next few days to flush the fluid and make sure we can get a clean refill with a new filter. We will be lubricating and rebalancing the driveline and its components to make sure its not an issue there. Im worried that maybe a transmission issue has been hiding as a "driveline bump issue" so I want to get it all checked out at once. I've only recently had problems since that drain and fill so maybe yours could just be low on fluid? I know that wouldn't explain the codes but its worth a shot if you haven't already to give that a go before you commit to a new tranny. Does it downshift pretty rough under hard braking? Has it ever taken it a second to catch the gear after a hard abrupt stop? I had to hard brake recently and when I stepped on the accelerator afterwards it just reved up and then like a second later caught the gear and chirped the tires. I will get back with you as soon as I know more!



All the research I have done indicates that these transmissions really do hold up well and total failure of these transmissions has been rare in my findings! I wish you the best tho and like I said I will revisit the thread in a few days to let you know what's happening.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:37 PM #6
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Certainly the difficulty with shifting is concerning for a transmission issue. I had an 03 that the transmission cooler went on it and it fried the transmission so 2012 I spent 4k to have a used transmission swapped into it.

I think you have to look at the value of the vehicle itself, how long are you planning to keep it (forever/ as long as it runs) or until you have enough money for a new one, how much do issues like this bother you - 4runners are very reliable but theres still a chance as mileage goes up something could happen. Take that all into account when consider keeping yours vs getting a newer one.

On the other hand - you know your vehicle, the things that have been fixed on it and will need to be fixed, how you drive/ what it feels like. ANNNNND the 4runner has not really been updated since 2005 other than interior and aesthetics. Youre getting basically the same power train -engine / transmission in anything newer.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:42 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigt5646 View Post
Hello!

Before you look into getting a new transmission hear me out! I have recently come across the same troubles as you. Took mine into the dealer and was told I would need the same thing. This just happened on the 25th. I was outraged because I had the dealer in my home state of Washington drain and fill my trans fluid less than 10,000 miles ago(Drain and fill was at 153,000 and car currently has 159,000) because I was moving to Colorado. Upon further review, it looks like my dealership in Washington only charged me for 2 quarts of transmission fluid and there is no charge for a new filter on there either. Im going to a transmission expert that I have worked with in the past in the next few days to flush the fluid and make sure we can get a clean refill with a new filter. We will be lubricating and rebalancing the driveline and its components to make sure its not an issue there. Im worried that maybe a transmission issue has been hiding as a "driveline bump issue" so I want to get it all checked out at once. I've only recently had problems since that drain and fill so maybe yours could just be low on fluid? I know that wouldn't explain the codes but its worth a shot if you haven't already to give that a go before you commit to a new tranny. Does it downshift pretty rough under hard braking? Has it ever taken it a second to catch the gear after a hard abrupt stop? I had to hard brake recently and when I stepped on the accelerator afterwards it just reved up and then like a second later caught the gear and chirped the tires. I will get back with you as soon as I know more!



All the research I have done indicates that these transmissions really do hold up well and total failure of these transmissions has been rare in my findings! I wish you the best tho and like I said I will revisit the thread in a few days to let you know what's happening.
Yes, the abrupt stop with a second or two before catching the gear happened last week, which triggered the light. They said I could just flush out the transmission (which I did two years ago at the same dealer) which may help, but in "their experience" replacing it is best. Not sure what to believe, but everything I hear about how rare it is to replace makes me think something is off here...
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:36 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinillini View Post
Yes, the abrupt stop with a second or two before catching the gear happened last week, which triggered the light. They said I could just flush out the transmission (which I did two years ago at the same dealer) which may help, but in "their experience" replacing it is best. Not sure what to believe, but everything I hear about how rare it is to replace makes me think something is off here...
I would try doing the flush before you go all out for the new transmission $300 vs $4000 is a worthwhile venture in my eyes. I have heard of some people having issues with the shift control solenoid but I haven't heard much regarding total failure. If you have another shop you trust I would recommend buying the filter and the fluid. Im sure there is an alternate trans fluid you can use but the Toyota specific stuff seems to be the best.
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:45 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syr4RinNC View Post
Certainly the difficulty with shifting is concerning for a transmission issue. I had an 03 that the transmission cooler went on it and it fried the transmission so 2012 I spent 4k to have a used transmission swapped into it.

I think you have to look at the value of the vehicle itself, how long are you planning to keep it (forever/ as long as it runs) or until you have enough money for a new one, how much do issues like this bother you - 4runners are very reliable but theres still a chance as mileage goes up something could happen. Take that all into account when consider keeping yours vs getting a newer one.

On the other hand - you know your vehicle, the things that have been fixed on it and will need to be fixed, how you drive/ what it feels like. ANNNNND the 4runner has not really been updated since 2005 other than interior and aesthetics. Youre getting basically the same power train -engine / transmission in anything newer.

I actually installed a transmission cooler on my v6(pulling the boat) a few weeks after I bought it because everyone said it was a very worthwhile upgrade. It adds to my frustration that I'm having transmission issues. I definitely plan to keep it for as long as I can. Not really interested in the new ones for the same reason you stated, you're buying the same thing with more space and an extra 30 some HP. Idk we will see what happens with the truck. Im a few thousand into it now with tires, lift, stereo and rack so I would really like to keep it but if it comes to a new transmission I guess ill have to do that. Where did you have yours installed if you don't mind me asking? Dealer or Private Mechanic?
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Old 07-30-2020, 01:05 AM #10
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I opted to replace my transmission late last year with a used unit, ~125000km or so on it. Got it from a local wrecker for $650 CAD in 2018, kept it in storage until mine was so bad I had to do it.

So, $1000USD (plus ~$500 on shipping, thanks UPS) later, upgraded valve body via IPT. John really knows these transmissions and did a great job.

And then ~$1200CAD to remove old trans and install new trans at local shop. They even helped me with removing (the valve body from the new-ish trans) and packing the valve body for shipment, and putting it back in once it was returned from being worked over. Great bunch of dudes!

The new transmission is a beast and no longer "soccer mom approved" with its harsh gear shifts.

I roasted a couple of solenoids back around 2013 because I let the trans overheat while towing a heavy trailer. My bad, not the truck's fault. I had the "drop out of gear while coming to a sudden stop" problem.

Anyway, I came across this article a few years ago, long after my trans had deteriorated beyond what I figured would be salvageable. Sorry for the formatting, this came out of a PDF:


Quote:
The Toyota A750E was first
introduced in the 2003
4-Runner and Land Cruiser,
and the Lexus LX400 and GX470.
Since then it’s become quite popular,
showing up in the Tacoma, Sequoia
and Tundra in 2005 and the FJ Cruiser
in 2007.
These transmissions have been on
the road for up to seven years and are
getting a lot of miles on them. With all
the cars using this transmission, there’s
no doubt you’ll be seeing it in the years
to come (figure 1).
A common complaint is the trans-mission
falling out of gear when com-ing
to a stop, sometimes so harsh that
it feels like someone has rear-ended
you. This happens because the trans has
fallen out of gear due to low pressure,
caused by a faulty SLT pressure sole-noid.
The ECM then ramps up the pres-sure
to max and it slams back into gear.
Replace the SLT solenoid is the fix for
this concern. But before we get into
fixes let’s learn a little about this unit
Line Pressure
Specifications
Line pressure tap location and
specifications (figure 2).
ATF Temperature Sensor
This transmission uses two tem-perature
sensors, each with a different
function. The ECM uses ATF tempera-ture
sensor 1 to modify pressure control

for the clutches and brakes. If this sen-sor
fails, the ECM will prevent upshifts
into fifth gear and lockup. The ECM
uses ATF temperature sensor 2 for shift
timing control when ATF temperatures
are high.

In some vehicles equipped with the
A750E, the MIL may light intermittent-ly,
and the computer may store DTC
P2742 in memory (Transmission fluid
temperature sensor 2 circuit low).
To diagnose this, monitor ATF
temperature sensor 2 and watch for it
to short to ground intermittently. When
the sensor shorts, ATF temperature sen-sor
2 will indicate 302ºF (150ºC). This
is usually due to a faulty internal wiring
harness; replacing the harness will cor-rect
the problem.
ATF temperature sensor 2 has two
blue wires; ATF temperature sensor 1
has two orange wires (figure 3).
Solenoid ID and
Location
This chart provides
the repair manual ID
for each solenoid in the
A750E transmission,
and the part name and
description provided
in the electronic parts
catalog.
Figure 4 shows the solenoid ID and
location.
Valve Body Disassembly
There are a few procedures you
should always keep in mind when
working the A750E valve body. Two
things that you need to do are:
Make sure you record the
1.
accumulator control pressure setting
prior to removing the accumulator con-trol
valve (figure 5).

There’s no factory preset specifica-tion.
From the factory setting, you can
turn the stepper in to provide a firmer
shift feel. Backing the stepper out will
offer a softer shift feel.
Make sure you record the pri-2.

mary regulator valve setting before
removing primary regulator valve from
the valve body. The tallest step will pro-vide
the highest base pressure reading;
the shortest step will provide the lowest
base pressure reading (figure 6).
Always inspect the valves and
springs thoroughly during disassembly.
Check the valves for scoring and make
sure the valve bore is clean. Pay close
attention to the valve layout, and make
sure you put them back in the way they
came out.
Exploded View Upper
Valve Body 1
Install the checkball in the C3
check valve lineup (figure 7). If you
leave this checkball out, the transmis-sion
won’t go into reverse.
Always check the B1 accumulator
in the upper valve body (figure 8). This
is where debris will build up. It can be
difficult to remove, but it’s important
to take it out and clean the bore thor-oughly.Exploded
View Lower
Valve Body 1
The primary regulator valve and
the accumulator control valve are locat-ed
in the lower valve body (figure 9).
Record the settings for these valves.

Once you’ve recorded the settings, disassemble the lower valve
body, check the valves for scoring, and make sure the valve bore is
clean.
Always install the solenoid filter screen (figure 10) with the open
end up. The screen will snap into the separator plate when properly
installed. Install the torque converter check valve as shown.
Upper Valve Body 1 and 2 Checkballs
There are three sections to the
A750E/F valve body. Upper valve bod-ies
1 and 2 are the only valve bodies with
checkballs (figures 11 and 12).
All of the checkballs are composite.
Make sure the checkballs are in good
shape; replace any that are damaged or
have decomposed. All of the checkballs
are the same size: 0.217” (5.5mm).
The coast brake relay valve is locat-ed
in upper valve body 2 (figure 12). Be
sure to remove, clean and inspect this
valve body.
Lower Valve Body 1
The purpose of the pressure limit
checkball is to exhaust pressure if it
becomes too high (figure 13). The limit
valve will blow off at about 300 PSI.
Now that we’ve covered all sole-noids,
control valves and checkballs in
the valve body, reassembling the valve
body should be a snap.
The A750E valve body isn’t dif-ficult
to work with. But without the
proper information and understanding,
you could easily cause yourself problems
later on. That’s why it’s so important to
have all the information close at hand.
It’s not just smart… it’s Street Smart!
I gutted all the irrelevant pages out of the PDF and attached it, but left the text above incase someone should need it.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf e457d_2010_4_all.pdf (1,016.9 KB, 157 views)

Last edited by Keros; 07-30-2020 at 01:08 AM. Reason: I speel reel gud
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:30 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67 View Post
There seems to be issues with the connector that attaches to the tranny on the 5speeds. They can get corroded and fail. Worth looking into, here's a video on the issue. I don't recall seeing these trannies failing much.

Bad Toyota Transmission..Can We Fix It For Free? - YouTube
I suggest this as well. Toyota wanted something like $6000 to replace the transmission. It was dead, dying, no questions asked, you'll barely make it home. Someone told me about spraying DeOxit on the connector and cleaning it up. Since then, it's never shifted so well.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:09 PM #12
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Update

Yo,
I can’t take the truck in until Thursday of this upcoming week. I added about a quart of fluid because the manual says a drain and fill should be about 3 quarts. The Toyota in Warrenton Oregon that did my drain and fill only added 2 quarts. Haven’t noticed much of a difference but I’m playing it pretty safe until I can get it into the shop. When I spoke with the guy on the phone he was in agreement with me that I could just be low fluid so we will see. According to my records my truck has never had a new trans filter put in. I’ve read in some threads that It can be cleaned as well? Would love some more info on this. My truck has a strange whine at wide open throttle. Wondering if it could be a clogged filter or just the whistle/whine of the intake. Only does it in drive and never consistent with an rpm range always random but only can be heard at WOT. Pretty sure it’s transmission related but we will see. I will update sometime next weekend.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:13 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros View Post
I opted to replace my transmission late last year with a used unit, ~125000km or so on it. Got it from a local wrecker for $650 CAD in 2018, kept it in storage until mine was so bad I had to do it.

So, $1000USD (plus ~$500 on shipping, thanks UPS) later, upgraded valve body via IPT. John really knows these transmissions and did a great job.

And then ~$1200CAD to remove old trans and install new trans at local shop. They even helped me with removing (the valve body from the new-ish trans) and packing the valve body for shipment, and putting it back in once it was returned from being worked over. Great bunch of dudes!

The new transmission is a beast and no longer "soccer mom approved" with its harsh gear shifts.

I roasted a couple of solenoids back around 2013 because I let the trans overheat while towing a heavy trailer. My bad, not the truck's fault. I had the "drop out of gear while coming to a sudden stop" problem.

Anyway, I came across this article a few years ago, long after my trans had deteriorated beyond what I figured would be salvageable. Sorry for the formatting, this came out of a PDF:




I gutted all the irrelevant pages out of the PDF and attached it, but left the text above incase someone should need it.
Thank you!!!!
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Old 08-29-2020, 11:38 PM #14
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Update!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montego Murph View Post
I suggest this as well. Toyota wanted something like $6000 to replace the transmission. It was dead, dying, no questions asked, you'll barely make it home. Someone told me about spraying DeOxit on the connector and cleaning it up. Since then, it's never shifted so well.
Spraying the DexOxit on that connector honestly made the difference not sure if it was the filter change or this that did the trick but so far truck has been very solid. Ty for this!

My transmission guy had the truck for a month and I got it back today. Truck was about a quart low on Trans fluid. He added some for me and the truck felt awesome after I picked it up. Didn't Charge me a thing! Took it home and dropped the pan and changed the filter. For only 5000 mile old fluid it was pretty dirty. My filter was really black as well looked like It was the original filter. I drained out about 4 quarts with the drop of the pan (forgot to put the magnets back in but remembered on bolt 18, FML lol)added about 5.5 and drained about .2 out of the overflow plug. So mine was a little low! Would for sure recommend doing this yourself flyinillini. Seems some dealerships like to just put back in what drained out which may not be what you need. Valvoline Maxxlife has been used by a good amount of people and is a decent alternative if you dont want to wait on some Toyota ATF. Duralast makes a filter for it too that you can get at auto zone. I didn't go this route but I'm sure its pretty comparable. Good write ups on here with very solid info and instructions. Would for sure recommend it. Best of luck tho! Sorry it took me so long to give an update.
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Old 08-30-2020, 10:23 AM #15
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I just did the fluid on my 08. Dropped the pan, cleaned the screen. I looked at purchasing a new one but because its a screen I decided to clean the heck out of it. My truck was idle for about 6 months and it had time to really drain. When I first replaced the oil I think I put about 3.5 qts. When I started it I had no gears fwd or reverse. Scared the crap out of me so I rechecked the fluid this time when it was warm ~ 115. Opened the overflow cap and nothing, not a drip. So while running and warm I pumped in ~ 1 1/2 qts and it started to drip from the overflow tube.
Torqued things up and ran thru the gears and all gears were firm and quick. I'll take it for a test run later today but I'm thinking I'm now fine.
Check you fluid level while warm.
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