Gentlemen thank you
In order I guess
@
Keros
The a/c is cold, cycles on and off, and little uptick in idle and back down during engage/disengage, belt and pulleys are quiet. All supporting the compressor being ok.
Checked the plugs they look good. They are still young.
That is an interesting story about the coil pack, mine are original and the wires as well. Maybe something to think about. No soot at all from the tailpipe, only water vapor.
About the throwing codes, never realized it was that sensitive. i almost wish it would.
Well about the tranny, I hope it isn't, I always feel weird calling tranny shops, I never know if the info is biased or not, i guess it wouldn't hurt, I wish there was a place I could go to and run a diagnostic on it. It does shift manually through each gear nice, tons of pull, it does shift and pulls hard through all gears and locks up the OD nicely. I do admit, she doesn't have the same get up and go off the line like she once had, and is a little slow keeping up shifting, if i race around short neighborhood blocks making fast left, rights, stops signs, but i don't really drive like that anyway.
I took it down tonight to a safe spot to launch it a couple times, in auto and manual modes, no a/c. it feels like it is boggy in the 1st gear from idle to about 2000/2500rpm and then is better and kind of kicks into a power band, problem with being in auto is that the shift to 2nd comes relatively fast, now when manually in 1st same thing boggy (like not enough air or exhaust) and at 3k - 5k is a beast all torqued up on steroids! It seems like if she came off the showroom @ 260hp, 12 years later of general wear she is @ 210hp hypothetically and the extra 50hp make the difference in that 1st gear from idle until the motor is making enough power to overcome, then add an a/c on, fan clutch partially engaged, 167 degree air in through the intake and now she's at a point of critical mass and just all the pieces together yield this scenario.
If you hop on the throttle from a dead stop, ur waiting to get outta that low rpm band and into the next band, then slow rapidly to a stop and get on it again it does the same thing, you can recreate it every time. The time it takes to get the mass rolling is the bog add 50hp and your happier/time to roll is reduced, add 100hp and the effect is minimized again etc. etc.
The question is where did the hypothetical 50hp go? I’d say a couple hp from all over, compression loss, carbon buildup, clutches, converters, injectors less efficient, diffs, everything really up until the power touches the ground.
How do you fix that? Tear the motor down and rebuild it, tear the tranny down and rebuild it, rebuild the diffs, replace the exhaust, replace drive shafts, all rubber components, pulleys, breaks, etc. Maybe throw a supercharger on it! The bog would be gone, but that tranny probably last a week! Lol.
Maybe one could speculate there is a failing component like the coil packs or the catalytic that could yield enough of a gain if repaired to allow for the truck to be peppier in that low rpm range and overcome the issue.
Wow did I just talk myself out of believing there is any problem at all! Lol
You guys with over 200k must be feeling the effects of hp loss due to wear or maybe with all the mods like big tires and stuff the perception of what once was and should be is lost in the mods that are known for some loss, like the big tires.
@
ElectroBoy
What a well thought out idea! I make the turn, the a/c is on, I give it some “go” and the compressor which should disengage to afford me the power for my maneuver doesn’t do it! Yummy. This is a great idea, I wonder what controls that, maybe I get lucky and a simple relay of some sort detects the throttle position that could be tested easily.