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Old 08-13-2020, 03:46 PM #16
ElectroBoy ElectroBoy is offline
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@TONEDOG513 , All good ideas here, but the common trigger is AC on. Even a properly operating AC compressor presents a huge load to an engine. That’s why there’s an idle up function that increases idle speed when the AC kicks on while sitting at a traffic light. And there’s some sort of acceleration sensing AC cutout, to temporarily drop the AC compressor load when under heavy acceleration. Probably controlled by the MB ECU and depending upon the input of several sensors. Like throttle position sensor, speed sensor, MAF sensor, etc., maybe an AC control relay.

It’s good to check on all your common tune up items but you might wind up going to someone who has special AC system knowledge with Toyotas.
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:52 PM #17
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You said "rattling and detonation" issues for years when running regular octane. You are masking the problem by running 93? My 08 V8 never has an issue with low octane.

This tells me you should check the gap on your spark plugs. If they are too far apart your truck is struggling to get a good burn.

Another person mentioned vacuum leak but I doubt that as you would have stalling issues as well.

Fuel and spark. Sounds to me like your spark may be the issue.
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Old 08-13-2020, 10:24 PM #18
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Gentlemen thank you

In order I guess

@Keros

The a/c is cold, cycles on and off, and little uptick in idle and back down during engage/disengage, belt and pulleys are quiet. All supporting the compressor being ok.

Checked the plugs they look good. They are still young.

That is an interesting story about the coil pack, mine are original and the wires as well. Maybe something to think about. No soot at all from the tailpipe, only water vapor.

About the throwing codes, never realized it was that sensitive. i almost wish it would.

Well about the tranny, I hope it isn't, I always feel weird calling tranny shops, I never know if the info is biased or not, i guess it wouldn't hurt, I wish there was a place I could go to and run a diagnostic on it. It does shift manually through each gear nice, tons of pull, it does shift and pulls hard through all gears and locks up the OD nicely. I do admit, she doesn't have the same get up and go off the line like she once had, and is a little slow keeping up shifting, if i race around short neighborhood blocks making fast left, rights, stops signs, but i don't really drive like that anyway.

I took it down tonight to a safe spot to launch it a couple times, in auto and manual modes, no a/c. it feels like it is boggy in the 1st gear from idle to about 2000/2500rpm and then is better and kind of kicks into a power band, problem with being in auto is that the shift to 2nd comes relatively fast, now when manually in 1st same thing boggy (like not enough air or exhaust) and at 3k - 5k is a beast all torqued up on steroids! It seems like if she came off the showroom @ 260hp, 12 years later of general wear she is @ 210hp hypothetically and the extra 50hp make the difference in that 1st gear from idle until the motor is making enough power to overcome, then add an a/c on, fan clutch partially engaged, 167 degree air in through the intake and now she's at a point of critical mass and just all the pieces together yield this scenario.

If you hop on the throttle from a dead stop, ur waiting to get outta that low rpm band and into the next band, then slow rapidly to a stop and get on it again it does the same thing, you can recreate it every time. The time it takes to get the mass rolling is the bog add 50hp and your happier/time to roll is reduced, add 100hp and the effect is minimized again etc. etc.

The question is where did the hypothetical 50hp go? I’d say a couple hp from all over, compression loss, carbon buildup, clutches, converters, injectors less efficient, diffs, everything really up until the power touches the ground.

How do you fix that? Tear the motor down and rebuild it, tear the tranny down and rebuild it, rebuild the diffs, replace the exhaust, replace drive shafts, all rubber components, pulleys, breaks, etc. Maybe throw a supercharger on it! The bog would be gone, but that tranny probably last a week! Lol.

Maybe one could speculate there is a failing component like the coil packs or the catalytic that could yield enough of a gain if repaired to allow for the truck to be peppier in that low rpm range and overcome the issue.

Wow did I just talk myself out of believing there is any problem at all! Lol

You guys with over 200k must be feeling the effects of hp loss due to wear or maybe with all the mods like big tires and stuff the perception of what once was and should be is lost in the mods that are known for some loss, like the big tires.

@ElectroBoy

What a well thought out idea! I make the turn, the a/c is on, I give it some “go” and the compressor which should disengage to afford me the power for my maneuver doesn’t do it! Yummy. This is a great idea, I wonder what controls that, maybe I get lucky and a simple relay of some sort detects the throttle position that could be tested easily.
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Old 08-13-2020, 11:05 PM #19
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Sorry I missed one comment

@randy88fj62

Yes years. It started around 30k out of nowhere really. At this point I was a consultant for the Toyota dealership where I purchased the vehicle new. It still had a warranty and I was in a very good position to get some really good eyes on troubleshooting the issue. I did just that, i had to be there at least once or twice a week for the whole day and the truck would go in to be looked at. Nothing really came of it, if you look up my previous threads from around 2010 you will see me talking about it on this forum.

During that time the iridium’s were supposed to stay in 90k or some ridiculous time imo, so I had them changed every 50k that means they have been changed approx. 4 times already, once by myself and the gap is good. Even though it does say on the box not to gap the irids..

But what you’re saying I think still holds weight, what if spark is a problem, and instead of plug, we said wire, or coil? Still spark and still a great thing to look into...

I can't tell you how it has bothered me since 30k - 225k that i hear that crap!

As for the vacuum leak, I like that idea too, I will look up a place that maybe could smoke test it for any leaks.

As for the fuel you mention, That too may need a check, I did have some weird problem with a knock in the mornings when 1st putting it in drive or reverse and holding the brake, sound like a rod knock/motor knock. i took it in for that to the dealer and they said nothing found, i kept taking it in and they never found anything but they did make up a that they detected in so a "super" tech would come down from Toyota to look at it. He came down and said fuel pump and related components were causing that knock, a fuel knock, so the fuel pump and related components were replaced. Although i felt like it still did happen once in a while during winter, i never really pursued it. I might have made a post in this forum about that knock also.

Weird stuff right! Funny too how fast you go from 13 miles on it from the dealer and now 225k miles, so much has happened in my life in that time and with all the stuff i complain about this truck it is still taking me to work, fishing off-road, long trips without ever being towed 1 time.

Go figure!

I might just go crazy and change the wires, coils, maf, smoke it, check the relays and see what happens.
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Old 08-15-2020, 12:57 AM #20
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Holy crap, this has been going on since 30k on the clock? I'd have gone nuts.

Yeah, I'd say something is wrong that can be corrected: I had my truck dyno'd at ~260000km and it put down 206awhp on the rollers. Doing some redneck mathematics from some forum post I found somewhere about the relationship between driveline losses vs wheel weight, I calculated I've lost negligible horsepower over the stock 270hp.

Perhaps an oil, coolant, and transmission fluid analysis might tell you something about the condition of various parts. Mostly about the combustion habits going on from the oil, and overall health from the transmission fluid. Coolant just for good measure.

It's wildly disappointing Toyota let this go on for so long while it was still in warranty
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Old 08-15-2020, 05:15 AM #21
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I didn't thoroughly read all the replies so if this has been mentioned just overlook my response. I'd want to take a look at cam timing. Possibly jumped a tooth on one or more cam gears. That would hurt your power but not necessarily set a code. Could also be related to your spark knock problem. I'd pull the upper covers and have a look. Won't cost anything but your time to find out.
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