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Old 08-18-2020, 10:26 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport View Post
No CVJ won't take non OEM. Sorry about that, for some reason I thought I was in the 5th gen section this morning. The dealer remans are pretty good, except for the boots being thin, but might last you long enough to make them worth your while. FYI everyone: on a small tear in my boots I've had luck doing a bicycle patch, but anything over an inch or two and it's probably not going to last for very long.
Regarding CVJ, any suggestions on going their "Better" or "Best" option? Specifically $123 vs $199? Seems like the difference is boot quality.
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:28 AM #17
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Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
I think I may have OEM axles after all. My inner axles housings have that weird shape and are not round. I'll call CVJ this am to see. I'm tempting to reboot but considering my timeline I may save doing a reboot for next time.
Now that I see these newer pictures, they look more like NAPA maxdrive axles, which is unfortunate for the core deposit on the CVJ route. I'd hate for you to get in the mess where they tell you they're OEM and then magically discover they're not OEM axles once you've already paid to ship them cross country. They're certainly nice guys over there, but I've heard of this happening before.

Comparisons seem to have a negative connotation, so I don't want this to come off negatively. I just want to help and make sure you don't get into a sticky situation.

Looking at the slide hammer channels, the Napa Maxdrive axle on the left has its channel extend across the entire rounded section. Whereas the Toyota axle on the right has shorter little channels that only cross over the "corners" of the inner joint shape. I got the Maxdrive pictures here: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMD9...ndex=Universal


Looking at the inner boot clamps, In the picture of your axle, the inner clamp is the the fold over kind, with a french door kinda fold. The OEM clamp style has 2 teeth that engage in 2 slots, with a retention tab (tab is bent up in the pic). The OEM clamps are also all different, theres literally 4 different styles of clamps that come in the OEM boot kit, one for each boot end.


One last thing to note is that the NAPA inner boots and your axles have 3 ribs, where as the Toyota boots have 4 ribs.


I hope this helpful!

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Old 08-18-2020, 11:58 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Now that I see these newer pictures, they look more like NAPA maxdrive axles, which is unfortunate for the core deposit on the CVJ route. I'd hate for you to get in the mess where they tell you they're OEM and then magically discover they're not OEM axles once you've already paid to ship them cross country. They're certainly nice guys over there, but I've heard of this happening before.

Comparisons seem to have a negative connotation, so I don't want this to come off negatively. I just want to help and make sure you don't get into a sticky situation.

Looking at the slide hammer channels, the Napa Maxdrive axle on the left has its channel extend across the entire rounded section. Whereas the Toyota axle on the right has shorter little channels that only cross over the "corners" of the inner joint shape. I got the Maxdrive pictures here:

Looking at the inner boot clamps, In the picture of your axle, the inner clamp is the the fold over kind, with a french door kinda fold. The OEM clamp style has 2 teeth that engage in 2 slots, with a retention tab (tab is bent up in the pic). The OEM clamps are also all different, theres literally 4 different styles of clamps that come in the OEM boot kit, one for each boot end.


One last thing to note is that the NAPA inner boots and your axles have 3 ribs, where as the Toyota boots have 4 ribs.


I hope this helpful!
Thanks for checking. I also sent CVJ an email with pics and they just responded as saying they are aftermarket. Since I do not have OEM axels, I will not go the CVJ route. I will be going with an aftermarket option based on my upcoming trip and timing needs. I want to be able to go offload and don't want to be thinking about getting water in those open boots.

Now I need to decide on which axels. I could go with the Cardone OEM remans or just stick with NAPA ones. I just checked NAPAs and they are about $120 so they are more expensive then the Cardone ones but then again I do not have to wait for them to be shipped. I do have a AAA membership so it looks like I could get 20% off too on NAPA ones. So about $160 @ RockAuto vs $210 @ Napa.

Also, I need to figure out what seals if any I should buy before doing the job. I have no leaks from diff right now.
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Old 08-18-2020, 02:05 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
Thanks for checking. I also sent CVJ an email with pics and they just responded as saying they are aftermarket. Since I do not have OEM axels, I will not go the CVJ route. I will be going with an aftermarket option based on my upcoming trip and timing needs. I want to be able to go offload and don't want to be thinking about getting water in those open boots.

Now I need to decide on which axels. I could go with the Cardone OEM remans or just stick with NAPA ones. I just checked NAPAs and they are about $120 so they are more expensive then the Cardone ones but then again I do not have to wait for them to be shipped. I do have a AAA membership so it looks like I could get 20% off too on NAPA ones. So about $160 @ RockAuto vs $210 @ Napa.

Also, I need to figure out what seals if any I should buy before doing the job. I have no leaks from diff right now.
You can try to keep the old diff seals in tact. But, if they are the slightest bit worn, being on a long trip with a leaky diff is no fun.
I've always gone with OEM seals from the dealer, someone else my have a better option. I used a PVC coupling that measures 2.75" OD diameter to tap them in. Take your time and take notice of what depth the old ones are sitting at to get the new ones sitting in the same spot. A decent seal puller is good to have, it will make that part a lot easier. Be careful pulling the old ones out so as to not score the race. You might want to get some OEM dust seals if they are worn out as well.
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:46 PM #20
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Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
Now I need to decide on which axels. I could go with the Cardone OEM remans or just stick with NAPA ones. I just checked NAPAs and they are about $120 so they are more expensive then the Cardone ones but then again I do not have to wait for them to be shipped. I do have a AAA membership so it looks like I could get 20% off too on NAPA ones. So about $160 @ RockAuto vs $210 @ Napa.

Also, I need to figure out what seals if any I should buy before doing the job. I have no leaks from diff right now.
Its up to you if you want to replace the seals. From what I've heard, if its not leaking and it doesn't get caught on the splines while removing the CV, then it should be okay to reuse. Its not too bad to replace the seal either, as long as you don't have the crusty ring that I had around the ADD tube like I did.

My writeup has all the seal PNs, and a guy on facebook was able to confirm the driver side diff seal PN for me: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures).

Heres the excerpt on seal PNs
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  • Knuckle Seal- This seal prevents debris from getting into the wheel bearing from the axle side. It is PN 90316-A0001
  • Driver Differential Seal- This seal goes into the differential, and keeps oil from passing out where the CV enters. The driver and passenger side have different PNs. The Driver side PN is 90311-47027 (Superseded 90311-47012) I only replaced the passenger axle, so please confirm the PN. You will only need one, but order 3 of them and hope you can return any extra. See my Lessons Learned for explanation.
  • Passenger Differential Seal- The Passenger side PN is 90311-47013. You will only need one, but order 3 of them and hope you can return any extra.
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Old 08-20-2020, 11:42 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Its up to you if you want to replace the seals. From what I've heard, if its not leaking and it doesn't get caught on the splines while removing the CV, then it should be okay to reuse. Its not too bad to replace the seal either, as long as you don't have the crusty ring that I had around the ADD tube like I did.

My writeup has all the seal PNs, and a guy on facebook was able to confirm the driver side diff seal PN for me: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures).

Heres the excerpt on seal PNs

Thank you. I appreciate the added information regarding replacing the seals. I will also order extra ones when doing it.

I haven't ordered the axels yet. Might even do the trip with the current ones and deal with this after. Haven't decided yet. It's risky either way from my point of view.

I also started looking at used OEM CV axels on Ebay. I might gamble and try to buy used low mile ones there. It looks like 2003 and newer will fit from what I can see. Need to confirm that though.

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Old 08-20-2020, 12:46 PM #22
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Thank you. I appreciate the added information regarding replacing the seals. I will also order extra ones when doing it.

I haven't ordered the axels yet. Might even do the trip with the current ones and deal with this after. Haven't decided yet. It's risky either from my point of view.

I also started looking at used OEM CV axels on Ebay. I might gamble and try to buy used low mile ones there. It looks like 2003 and newer will fit from what I can see. Need to confirm that though.
If its the V6, you can go for a long time without replacing the CVs, especially if you're not using 4wd. The CVs would be toast of course, but its not going to seize up on the highway, especially if they're already worn from driving on them. If its the v8, you may need to look at replacing them sooner, since the CVs are always getting power

I had a hard time ordering used OEM CVs on eBay. I was ordering from LKQ, the first one was cancelled for product damage the day after it was expected to be delivered, the second one I ordered was cancelled for product damage the day after it was ordered, and the last one showed up as an O'Reillys axle which I got refunded. People have had good luck with eBay in the past, I guess I just had bad luck. The best place would probably be from someone here or tacoma world, since its most likely another enthusiast.

From my research, anything 03-20 4runner, 03-09 gx470, second gen Tacoma, and I think any FJ axle will work. 5th gen 4runners have better inner boots, they're a thermoplastic like the outer boot.
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Old 08-20-2020, 01:33 PM #23
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If you check the warranty page on the NAPA website, I'm pretty sure that a Cardone warranty comes up. I just got my Cardones from Rock Auto. I am planning on doing the install Labor day weekend. The only thing negative that I can say about RO is that their shipping department needs to work on packaging. They sent both my axles in one box with one little piece of bubble wrap. One axle dust shield was pretty beat up and i had to send it back for a replacement.
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Old 08-20-2020, 02:03 PM #24
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I'd buy the CVJ reman'd, don't worry about the $95 core charge. Buy the best. I had a Toyota dealer replace the axles on my '08 V8 with torn boots, service writer and mechanic told me the only axles they use are CVJ reman'd.
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Old 08-21-2020, 08:32 PM #25
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Just replace them now, was off roading a little while ago when I had a small pin hole leak in my cv axel boot and my cv axel blew apart while I was hammering up a hill. Just got too hot and blew up. Oreilly sells cv axels for about 100 bucks with lifetime warranty.
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:13 PM #26
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Does anybody know if the 5th gen boots (part 04427-60131) fit the 4th gen axle? I think they improved the quality of the inner boot.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:08 PM #27
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:15 PM #28
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Does anybody know if the 5th gen boots (part 04427-60131) fit the 4th gen axle? I think they improved the quality of the inner boot.
I've heard they fit from some guys on facebook, the 5th gen inner is a thermoplastic compared to the rubbery 4th gen inner boot. The 5th gen entire axle will also fit too according to some researching I've done in the past.
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:28 PM #29
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I've heard they fit from some guys on facebook, the 5th gen inner is a thermoplastic compared to the rubbery 4th gen inner boot. The 5th gen entire axle will also fit too according to some researching I've done in the past.
If it fits the 4th gen axle that would be a nice free upgrade (cost is about the same for the 4th and 5th gen reboot kit). Part numbers for after-marked axles are the same for 4th and 5th gen 4runner so it looks like the axles are interchangeable. Will probably try that route.
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Old 08-25-2020, 09:34 PM #30
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I'd buy the CVJ reman'd, don't worry about the $95 core charge. Buy the best. I had a Toyota dealer replace the axles on my '08 V8 with torn boots, service writer and mechanic told me the only axles they use are CVJ reman'd.
Thanks. After hearing about the Ebay issues that some folks here have encountered, I am leaning towards the CJV ones when I actually replace them.
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