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Old 03-11-2021, 08:26 PM #31
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I know it's been a while but I finally got to replacing the CV axles. I ended up going with new NAPA axles. I figured they have been on the truck for the past 60k miles and still never made any noise even though the boots have been torn for the past 40k or so.

Anyway, I started replacing them today. The job has been very easy up until trying to get the new axel in. I expected to have a hard time seating the clip but I'm struggling just to get the axle to go in. I've wiggled and jiggled it but no go. Im afraid to start hitting on it at this point since it is barely in.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Btw, am I going to need any special tools like a brass punch or something for this?

thanks.

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Old 03-11-2021, 09:23 PM #32
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I replaced both CV axles last year and all it took to get the new ones to seat past the clips was a couple raps with a mallet & they popped right in.

Do you mean they won't even start to go in? It's possible the part store gave you the wrong part. If that's the case try counting the number of teeth on the spline of the old axle & verify that the new part has the same number of teeth. Take mesurments too.

Last edited by Hunter61; 03-11-2021 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 03-11-2021, 09:33 PM #33
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I spray silicone lube on the CV boots. my 2016 runner looks like new boots.. I also spray the silicone on the control arm bushings..

on my 2000 silverado 4X4 I own it 21 yrs and 175K miles on it .. CV boots and the axles still looking/working good.. no leaks !

looks like your old rubber had brake cleaner sprayed on it .. looked nasty ..
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Old 03-11-2021, 10:01 PM #34
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Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
I know it's been a while but I finally got to replacing the CV axles. I ended up going with new NAPA axles. I figured they have been on the truck for the past 60k miles and still never made any noise even though the boots have been torn for the past 40k or so.

Anyway, I started replacing them today. The job has been very easy up until trying to get the new axel in. I expected to have a hard time seating the clip but I'm struggling just to get the axle to go in. I've wiggled and jiggled it but no go. Im afraid to start hitting on it at this point since it is barely in.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Btw, am I going to need any special tools like a brass punch or something for this?

thanks.
Use the sliding inner tripod like a slide hammer and give it a few slides from straight on, should pop right in. I wouldn't be afraid to give it a good amount of force, you won't damage the hardened parts.

Try taking it out and rotating it to a different position then going for it. C-clip down is what I did, but you may have success in other positions. You could also try spinning the diff like 1/4 turn with the half installed CV, remove the axle since its not clipped in, reorient it with C clip down and try again.
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Old 03-11-2021, 10:43 PM #35
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I also tap axles with a rubber mallet to get them seated past the ring into the differential.
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Old 03-12-2021, 12:40 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Use the sliding inner tripod like a slide hammer and give it a few slides from straight on, should pop right in. I wouldn't be afraid to give it a good amount of force, you won't damage the hardened parts.

Try taking it out and rotating it to a different position then going for it. C-clip down is what I did, but you may have success in other positions. You could also try spinning the diff like 1/4 turn with the half installed CV, remove the axle since its not clipped in, reorient it with C clip down and try again.
Thanks. Before I saw your response, I was able to get the axle in after all. I switched to a big ass hammer and started wacking on it. Next thing I knew, it was in and with the c-clip seated too. The hammer I used has a serrated head so it pretty much destroyed the old axle nut that I used. I tried using a 2lb dead blow hammer but didn't do anything. I actually destroyed one side of it.

The hammer I used worked, but it more of a carpentry hammer which probably isn't the best. Now I need to do the other side plus I need to try and rent a torque wrench that can get up to 217 lb/ft.
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Old 03-13-2021, 12:52 AM #37
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Well I was able to complete both axles today. Overall I would say that the job isn't too bad after you have gone through it once. The hardest part was seating the c-clip on the ends of the axles into the differential.

My recommendation for anyone considering doing this job yourself is to pick up at least a 2.5lb sledge hammer when trying to seat the axles. Using a small hammer or even a deadblow hammer is not heavy enough to get the job done in my opinion. You need something with some weight behind it otherwise you are just exerting a lot of effort with no results.

Overall the steps I did were:
  1. Jack and support front of vehicle.
  2. Drain the front differential. NOTE: Make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining.
  3. Remove axle dust cover.
  4. Remove cotter pin and cap covering axle nut.
  5. Remove the 35mm axle nut.
    (HELPFUL TIP: If axle nut will not come off easy. Spray with PB blaster. There are two ways to prevent the axle from spinning when trying to loosen.
    - You can wedge a pry bar against the wheel studs and the ground.
    OR
    - You can remove the center cap from the wheel, mount the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Now apply the emergency brake. You can now use your ratchet and breaker bar. You can also support the axle nut and extension by placing a jack stand under it to avoid the axle nut socket from slipping off when applying force with the breaker bar.
    - I used the latter method as one of my axle nuts was very difficult to remove.)
  6. Remove tie rod end by removing cotter pin and 19mm bolt. (I rented a tie rod end puller which made this step super easy.)
  7. Separate the lower ball joint by removing the two 19mm bolts under the knuckle.
  8. Now pull the whole assembly (knuckle, caliper and rotor) away from the axle. Be careful not to damage the dust seal behind the bearing during this step. I did not need to press or hit out the axle from the bearing. I was able to push the axle out using my fingers. NOTE: The service manual states to remove the speed sensor including wire from the hub in order to remove the axle. This step was not needed. Just watch the speed sensor and brake hose when rotating the knuckle out of the way.
  9. Support the axle with a bungee cord before attempting to remove it from the differential. This will help to prevent it failing out and hitting you or damaging something else.
  10. Using a pry bar and hammer, push out the axle from the differential. Be patient here. Once you get past the c-clip, you may need to keep hitting the axle out in order to remove it completely.
  11. Compare new axle to old axle to ensure correct part.
  12. Lube end of axle shaft that goes into differential with ATF or differential gear oil.
  13. Insert axle with c-clip open side down into the differential. Be careful not to damage the oil seal when inserting the axle. Make sure the end shaft is inserted squarely and evenly and as far as it can go. NOTE: It will only go in so far by hand. See image below.
  14. Insert the axle all the way into the differential using a big hammer. Make sure the c-clips snaps into the differential. Make sure the axle is straight before hitting. This took several hits in order to insert all the way into the differential. Be patient here. Having a proper size hammer will make all the difference in the world. NOTE: To avoid damaging the threads on the end of the shaft, you can add the old axle nut in front of the new axle nut before hitting with the hammer.
  15. Now reassemble. Install the knuckle over the axle. Be careful not to damage the dust seal on the back of the bearing.
  16. Install the 35mm axle nut and hand tighten. You should be able to pull the axle all the way up to the dust seal with the axle nut.
  17. Install the two 19mm lower ball joint bolts. NOTE: You may need to raise the knuckle using a jack in order to align the bolts.
  18. Install the tie rod end using the 19mm nut. Torque to 67 ft-lb and install cotter pin.
  19. Torque both lower ball joint bolts to 118 ft-lb.
  20. Torque axle nut to 217 ft-lb. Install cap and cotter pin over axle nut. NOTE: You can use the two methods described above in step 5 in order to assist with tightening the axle nut.
  21. Install dust cover over axle nut.
  22. Repeat all steps for other axle if needed. Excluding draining the differential of course.
  23. Refill differential with appropriate fluid. Torque fill plug to 29 ft-lb and drain plug to 48 ft-lb.
  24. Reinstall tires and tighten to 83 ft-lb.

Enjoy.... Hope this helps someone. Btw, I appreciate all the help I received here. This forum is the best!

Last edited by zguy1; 03-13-2021 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 03-31-2022, 05:53 PM #38
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Time to do the same

Hi All,

Driver inner CV blown to smithereens. CVJ says they look OEM via pic sent in so is final analysis that if you can send in a core OEM, use the CVJ products or better to just rebuild myself with new boots only? 2005 4R 4x4 Lim V8 with just under 200k miles FWIW.
Thanks for the replies in advance.
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Old 03-31-2022, 06:27 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
My recommendation for anyone considering doing this job yourself is to pick up at least a 2.5lb sledge hammer when trying to seat the axles. Using a small hammer or even a deadblow hammer is not heavy enough to get the job done in my opinion. You need something with some weight behind it otherwise you are just exerting a lot of effort with no results.
I would recommend a 3# deadblow hammer and NOT a sledge, also, put the nut on the outer spindle BACKWARDS, flush with the end of the threads, to protect the threads from the hammer blows. With the c-clip greased, opening upwards, you just need to align the splines and the axle will fly in without a lot of force.

A small container under the diff/axle to catch fluid when you pull the axle makes clean up quick and easy, too.

I use a 10" prybar from Harbor Freight and push with my foot to pop the axle out while holding/pulling gently it with my hands.

If the inner boots is torn, don't pull too hard or you'll separate the inner CV joint.

Once you've swapped CVs more than once it becomes a cake walk. I can do one side in 10-20 mins now, especially if I have a helper to hold the brakes while I loosen/torque the axle nut.
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Last edited by octanejunkie; 03-31-2022 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 03-31-2022, 06:44 PM #40
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Hi there. I noticed that both of the inner boots on each of my CV joints are cracked. One appears dry and the another appears to have leaked grease at some point. I honestly believe that both of them were cracked earlier this year in February when I did a bunch of maintenance on the truck. That was about 18,000 miles ago and have driven to the west and east coast since.

I am getting ready to do another trip out to Montana in 2 weeks and started inspecting the truck to make sure it is ready.

Am I driving on borrowed time or can these things go for a very long time in this condition?

I don't hear any noises at all when driving. Pics below...


Personally I wouldn't even think about a road trip like that. Like others said they are very valuable for some stupid reason. So get them off and refurbish them before they get more wear and tear. Order some A1 Cardone axles for $60 a pop for your trip. I've been off roading the sh1t out of them for a year and I'm satisfied. Have OEMs for trail back ups. It's not that difficult to replace them and they are going strong after a year of my abusive driving, so I really don't give a sh1t that they aren't the same durp price as OEM. I can buy 10 sets for the price of one. Have fun I wanna go ugh!
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Old 03-31-2022, 06:47 PM #41
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You have a helper dang I don't know what I'd do with one of those. Never had a helper so put it in 4wd next time for the axle nut ��
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Old 03-31-2022, 07:28 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
Well I was able to complete both axles today. Overall I would say that the job isn't too bad after you have gone through it once. The hardest part was seating the c-clip on the ends of the axles into the differential.

My recommendation for anyone considering doing this job yourself is to pick up at least a 2.5lb sledge hammer when trying to seat the axles. Using a small hammer or even a deadblow hammer is not heavy enough to get the job done in my opinion. You need something with some weight behind it otherwise you are just exerting a lot of effort with no results.

Overall the steps I did were:
  1. Jack and support front of vehicle.
  2. Drain the front differential. NOTE: Make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining.
  3. Remove axle dust cover.
  4. Remove cotter pin and cap covering axle nut.
  5. Remove the 35mm axle nut.
    (HELPFUL TIP: If axle nut will not come off easy. Spray with PB blaster. There are two ways to prevent the axle from spinning when trying to loosen.
    - You can wedge a pry bar against the wheel studs and the ground.
    OR
    - You can remove the center cap from the wheel, mount the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Now apply the emergency brake. You can now use your ratchet and breaker bar. You can also support the axle nut and extension by placing a jack stand under it to avoid the axle nut socket from slipping off when applying force with the breaker bar.
    - I used the latter method as one of my axle nuts was very difficult to remove.)
  6. Remove tie rod end by removing cotter pin and 19mm bolt. (I rented a tie rod end puller which made this step super easy.)
  7. Separate the lower ball joint by removing the two 19mm bolts under the knuckle.
  8. Now pull the whole assembly (knuckle, caliper and rotor) away from the axle. Be careful not to damage the dust seal behind the bearing during this step. I did not need to press or hit out the axle from the bearing. I was able to push the axle out using my fingers. NOTE: The service manual states to remove the speed sensor including wire from the hub in order to remove the axle. This step was not needed. Just watch the speed sensor and brake hose when rotating the knuckle out of the way.
  9. Support the axle with a bungee cord before attempting to remove it from the differential. This will help to prevent it failing out and hitting you or damaging something else.
  10. Using a pry bar and hammer, push out the axle from the differential. Be patient here. Once you get past the c-clip, you may need to keep hitting the axle out in order to remove it completely.
  11. Compare new axle to old axle to ensure correct part.
  12. Lube end of axle shaft that goes into differential with ATF or differential gear oil.
  13. Insert axle with c-clip open side down into the differential. Be careful not to damage the oil seal when inserting the axle. Make sure the end shaft is inserted squarely and evenly and as far as it can go. NOTE: It will only go in so far by hand. See image below.
  14. Insert the axle all the way into the differential using a big hammer. Make sure the c-clips snaps into the differential. Make sure the axle is straight before hitting. This took several hits in order to insert all the way into the differential. Be patient here. Having a proper size hammer will make all the difference in the world. NOTE: To avoid damaging the threads on the end of the shaft, you can add the old axle nut in front of the new axle nut before hitting with the hammer.
  15. Now reassemble. Install the knuckle over the axle. Be careful not to damage the dust seal on the back of the bearing.
  16. Install the 35mm axle nut and hand tighten. You should be able to pull the axle all the way up to the dust seal with the axle nut.
  17. Install the two 19mm lower ball joint bolts. NOTE: You may need to raise the knuckle using a jack in order to align the bolts.
  18. Install the tie rod end using the 19mm nut. Torque to 67 ft-lb and install cotter pin.
  19. Torque both lower ball joint bolts to 118 ft-lb.
  20. Torque axle nut to 217 ft-lb. Install cap and cotter pin over axle nut. NOTE: You can use the two methods described above in step 5 in order to assist with tightening the axle nut.
  21. Install dust cover over axle nut.
  22. Repeat all steps for other axle if needed. Excluding draining the differential of course.
  23. Refill differential with appropriate fluid. Torque fill plug to 29 ft-lb and drain plug to 48 ft-lb.
  24. Reinstall tires and tighten to 83 ft-lb.

Enjoy.... Hope this helps someone. Btw, I appreciate all the help I received here. This forum is the best!
Smooth concrete surface is nice too 👍
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Old 04-01-2022, 04:05 AM #43
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I would personally just get new CVs. You can get napa lifetime warranty ones that do the job just fine.
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Old 04-01-2022, 09:24 AM #44
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I would personally just get new CVs. You can get napa lifetime warranty ones that do the job just fine.
lifetime warranty is good if you do your own labor. i have a torn outer boot on front passenger on an aftermarket installed at a shop. only 30k on them. ws told i can go a long time like this, esp. considering its a v6 with limited 4wd engagement.

read that 5th get are an option? is that a fact? i swapped a 5th gen exhaust onto my '07, and it was was compatible.
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Old 04-01-2022, 01:02 PM #45
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stopped at my local NAPA store. was told the drive axles would be $104 (AAA discount) with limited lifetime warranty. new, not Remaned. my indie shop told me they had switched vendors for these that includes lifetime warranty. they would charge $210. i'm confident these are the same, just with a 100% mark up by the shop!!! on a new part, the labor would still carry the 1 year warranty, so i would buy my own parts and let some shop do the install.
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