[zguy1]

@y=mx+b - I recently replaced my head gaskets and put together a summary of the problem observed, diagnosing it, procedures used, tools, parts and helpful tips. It is not exactly a step by step, but it is my attempt to gather all of the best information I could find and put it in one place. I think it compliments the instructions written by forum member, nossliw. Please feel free to add it if you think it would be helpful.

The thread is V6 engine replacement vs head gasket repair ??? and the summary is at Post 135.

[y=mx+b]

Originally Posted by zguy1

@y=mx+b - I recently replaced my head gaskets and put together a summary of the problem observed, diagnosing it, procedures used, tools, parts and helpful tips. It is not exactly a step by step, but it is my attempt to gather all of the best information I could find and put it in one place. I think it compliments the instructions written by forum member, nossliw. Please feel free to add it if you think it would be helpful.

The thread is V6 engine replacement vs head gasket repair ??? and the summary is at Post 135.

Thanks for putting this together! Should be added in there now

[RayRunner]

This has been very helpful in troubleshooting electrical issue on my 2005 4Runner:
"Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagram 2005 Model"
Pub. No. EWD615U

This is from Toyota Motor Corp and is well worth the price. Add a good digital multi meter (Fluke is my choice) and full set of test leads and you are on your way.

[RayRunner]

For some excellent information on logical automotive electrical troubleshooting using diagnostic tools and wiring diagrams have a look at
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO - YouTube

This guy (Erik) is an excellent teacher, and a real professional.

[RayRunner]

You may find this information useful in getting to know your new OBD-II scan tool: I am a DIY guy who just invested in an Innova 5160rs tool and "Haynes Techbook OBD-II & Electronic Engine Management Systems", their publication #1026.

The Innova 5160rs "CarScan Scan Tool Owner's Manual Repair Solutions 2" is available for download (I printed mine) and is thorough at 122 pages. The index in the front of the manual is well done.

[pltommyo]

I didn't find anything on replacing the front wheel seal (backside on knuckle, part 90316A0001). Mine keep blowing out, then crud destroys the ABS sensors. I just replaced the seals, had everything nice and clean (including CV shaft where it will interface to seal), seal went on flat and tight to back of knuckle, slid CV through and into splines on bearing, torqued to spec, drove about 20 miles and saw the ABS sensor was still warning, so figured it was bad. Took it out (usual method - it snaps in half, then have to drive out from the knuckle hole and clean up mess inside) and saw that the brand new Toyota wheel seal had failed. The spring loop and part of the rubber seal were laying inside the knuckle. Took it back out, put another new one in, and have it reassembled now. At least I have no ABS warnings, but this is the third set of ABS sensors and at least the 4th or 5th set of these wheel seals I have had to replace. Does anyone have any idea what we are doing wrong, what is possibly causing this, or any suggestions? This is really frustrating and expensive!

[Ur7x2fa8]

Does anyone have a tutorial on how to replace the XREAS with normal shocks/struts BUT keep the Rear Air Ride system?

My 2003 V8 Limited has both and the Rear Air Ride system works great and is awesome for heavy loads and towing... But the XREAS system is starting to leak and I would rather switch to more cost effective shocks.

Looking for a aftermarket option that has the compression range needed to work with the Air System.

Can anyone recommend a rear shock for stock ride height?

[Bluesky 07]

Originally Posted by Ur7x2fa8

Does anyone have a tutorial on how to replace the XREAS with normal shocks/struts BUT keep the Rear Air Ride system?


My 2003 V8 Limited has both and the Rear Air Ride system works great and is awesome for heavy loads and towing... But the XREAS system is starting to leak and I would rather switch to more cost effective shocks.

Looking for a aftermarket option that has the compression range needed to work with the Air System.

Can anyone recommend a rear shock for stock ride height?

Can’t help with the Air Ride thing but the suspension link in my sig has info on X-REAS removal. Within the post are links to the FSM files on X-REAS removal and they may have the Air Ride piece.

For stock ride height, many people go with KYB and the Bilstein 4600 is also designed for that. FWIW, I have experience with the 4600s and found it a great shock but of course ride is a subjective thing.

[Ur7x2fa8]

Originally Posted by Bluesky 07

For stock ride height, many people go with KYB and the Bilstein 4600 is also designed for that. FWIW, I have experience with the 4600s and found it a great shock but of course ride is a subjective thing.

Do we know if the range of travel for the KYB shocks (or the 4600s) are compatible with + 1.6" and -0.8" rear "lift" range you get with the Air ride system?

[Richmasse]

Thanks

[Richmasse]

Thanks for this

[Mattmaine1991]

Thanks for the tips

[P51Driver]

Looking for the correct procedure for replacing my exterior window weatherstripping on all four doors as well as rear liftgate. Purchased them from my dealership & watched a couple videos then looked into the forum threads here. Didn’t see a good description for the proper removal/installation. TIA 😎

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by P51Driver

Looking for the correct procedure for replacing my exterior window weatherstripping on all four doors as well as rear liftgate. Purchased them from my dealership & watched a couple videos then looked into the forum threads here. Didn’t see a good description for the proper removal/installation. TIA 😎

It's a very easy job, should take 5 to 10 minutes per door if that long.

On the front doors there a "Torx" screw on the inside rear of the door, roll down the window, remove the screw, then using a screwdriver with tape on the blade tip pry up the old weatherstrip/belt until you can pull it with your hand, don't worry if it starts coming apart, just get it all off, as you get it most of the way out pull back on it to get it out from under the mirror, reverse the procedure to install it. i.e. push it under the mirror and then down, reinsert the screw.

The back doors are very similar except the Torx screw is at the front inside of the door, and you have to slide the weatherstripping out from under the triangle window portion.

The rear hatch is easier, no screws, just roll down the window and pry/pull the old one off and then push the new one in place.

Here's search results that may be helpful, only check out the ones for 4th Gens.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/gsear...123j16999129j2

[P51Driver]

Thanks for the good info on the removal and installation. That seems pretty much what I thought would be the correct approach. Very much appreciate the response.