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Old 09-01-2020, 04:56 PM #16
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Originally Posted by Drcoffee View Post
I found this drivers side radiator leak on the backside while scanning for possible issues. Looks like a sealant may have been used before trading in the truck.



Get a new one from Amazon.

Amazon.com: Denso 221-3117 Radiator: Automotive

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Old 09-01-2020, 05:13 PM #17
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Maybe I can't tell from the picture but what makes you think sealant was used? The coolant in these is a pink color and when it dries up it would like like that bubbly stuff. Looks like a very slow leak to me. My 2 cents.
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Old 09-01-2020, 07:11 PM #18
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I have ordered one from rockauto. I just dont trust amazon product quality, legitimacy. Thats just me. Now I need to flush the engine thoroughly. Hopefully there is not a head gasket issue looming.
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Old 09-01-2020, 07:13 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67 View Post
Maybe I can't tell from the picture but what makes you think sealant was used? The coolant in these is a pink color and when it dries up it would like like that bubbly stuff. Looks like a very slow leak to me. My 2 cents.
Coolant will get crusty but a clump that size is how sealant works. Just my opinion.

I hope Im wrong

Update:
After removing the radiator, I found the water pump was leaking too. So while Im in there I will replace the pulley bearings, belt, water pump, add the transmission cooler, add a Magnefine trans filter to the cooler line, and treat the visible frame parts with NHOU to slow the rust. I was hoping I wouldnt have to remove the skid plate but I dropped a radiator mount down into the abyss. LOL
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Last edited by Drcoffee; 09-03-2020 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 09-01-2020, 07:18 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee View Post
Coolant will get crusty but a clump that size is how sealant works. Just my opinion.

I hope Im wrong
Doubt it's the head gasket as late 05 and newer have the newer design. I bet the new rad will be the end of it.

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Old 09-02-2020, 04:22 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee View Post
Coolant will get crusty but a clump that size is how sealant works. Just my opinion.

I hope Im wrong
I have seen it build up like that on the reddish stuff but not really any other colors. I don't know what sealant would look like though. Hopefully it's a painless fix.
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Old 11-13-2020, 10:27 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67 View Post
Maybe I can't tell from the picture but what makes you think sealant was used? The coolant in these is a pink color and when it dries up it would like like that bubbly stuff. Looks like a very slow leak to me. My 2 cents.
When I removed and emptied the radiator out, there were silver flecks at the bottom. Like aluminum radiator sealer.

I also found p0456 evap leak. I changed the evap purge valve on the intake and the gas cap. That seems to have fixed that code. The steering is stiff which means the intermediate shaft is rusty and I have that on my bench waiting to go in along with a new T-stat. And to address the LTFT issue I have 3 new fuel injectors and intake gaskets for cyl 2,4,6.

Thank God I can do the work myself. This would cost a fortune at a service shop.
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Old 11-13-2020, 11:17 AM #23
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:01 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee View Post
When I removed and emptied the radiator out, there were silver flecks at the bottom. Like aluminum radiator sealer.



I also found p0456 evap leak. I changed the evap purge valve on the intake and the gas cap. That seems to have fixed that code. The steering is stiff which means the intermediate shaft is rusty and I have that on my bench waiting to go in along with a new T-stat. And to address the LTFT issue I have 3 new fuel injectors and intake gaskets for cyl 2,4,6.



Thank God I can do the work myself. This would cost a fortune at a service shop.
It sure is satisfying knowing you're saving all that money. Plus you know you're taking your time and doing the job right.

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Old 11-13-2020, 07:11 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee View Post
When I removed and emptied the radiator out, there were silver flecks at the bottom. Like aluminum radiator sealer.

I also found p0456 evap leak. I changed the evap purge valve on the intake and the gas cap. That seems to have fixed that code. The steering is stiff which means the intermediate shaft is rusty and I have that on my bench waiting to go in along with a new T-stat. And to address the LTFT issue I have 3 new fuel injectors and intake gaskets for cyl 2,4,6.

Thank God I can do the work myself. This would cost a fortune at a service shop.
Moving along, certain saves when you can do it yourself. That steering shaft is a pain to remove and install for that matter. Tight spaces and lining things up is tough. One tooth off reflects on the wheel quite a bit.
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Old 11-13-2020, 08:11 PM #26
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Originally Posted by MikeinNH67 View Post
Moving along, certain saves when you can do it yourself. That steering shaft is a pain to remove and install for that matter. Tight spaces and lining things up is tough. One tooth off reflects on the wheel quite a bit.
I hope to put a witness mark in line with the shaft seam line. Whether its a dremmel cut or 1/8” drill or just the air hammer to mark the alignment before removing. The upper shaft has the flats i assume cant be installed wrong, but the rack stem needs a mark.
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Old 11-13-2020, 08:47 PM #27
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I hope to put a witness mark in line with the shaft seam line. Whether its a dremmel cut or 1/8” drill or just the air hammer to mark the alignment before removing. The upper shaft has the flats i assume cant be installed wrong, but the rack stem needs a mark.
Making a line with a dremel would certainly be nice but fitting it in there is the hard part. I made marks with a sharpie and still had a hard time lining it up. I removed the top side maybe 5 times to try and get it right with test drives between them. If you could lock the steering and the wheels somehow it would help but one tooth is a small amount when lining up a mark that's hard to see. I think the upper with the bolt flat will move at least a tooth either way from center although I may have got annoyed with it enough that I ran a drill or file through the bolt hole to make it work where it was centered. Pulling the bottom out to readjust is brutal. One tip that should help is to only slide one end on a small amount then drive it to check alignment, not far or fast in case it pops out but it is a tight fit so shouldn't.
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Old 12-12-2020, 10:33 PM #28
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Update:

LTFT issue - I got around to removing the intake plenum and found oil escaping from between the lower intake and plenum, the gasket was compressed and rock hard. After cleaning up that mess, I pulled the drivers side fuel injectors and found 2-3 holes in the nozzles were blocked on all 3 injectors and #6 was particularly dirty. Reinstalled the new reman injectors (GB from rockauto).After looking at the oxidized valve covers, I couldnt just put them back on that way. Took some extra time, wire brushed the valve covers and sprayed them black. FYI, I have used rattle can paints that always seem to disappoint. They either come off with chemicals or just chip looking at it. I found a rattle can paint from rustoleum called Tractor and Implement paint at Tractor Supply and Menards costing $9 (pricier than others) but this paint really surprised me. Good stuff Maynard.

Reinstalled the intake plenum and new oem gasket. Went much easier than I expected, but I wasnt rushing. Net result, the BANK 2 LTFT dropped from 8% to 3.8%. Im not chasing this any longer. 4% is just fine. I think the biggest factor was clogged fuel injectors. It looked like gravel blocking the injectors and a cleaner would do nothing to fix it.

The emissions code P0456 was fixed with a new evap valve on the intake plenum and new gas cap. Truck idles perfectly smooth now.

Success!!





Attached Images
-6800c235-8709-4e56-99da-b6fb9adf799d-jpg  -e05dc107-50f7-4c56-a508-0f6fa0ae9aa8-jpg 
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Last edited by Drcoffee; 12-13-2020 at 12:12 PM.
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