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Old 10-06-2020, 09:17 PM #16
Cezar Cezar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity View Post
GL with that alignment, it's going to wander all over the road at highway speed. The camber and castor are not even close L to R.
Doesn't seem to. I have about 300 miles on it now.

Only issue I've noted is that the toe could be just a tiny bit left to account for road crown.

EDIT: Also I don't even blame the alignment tech. The adjustment cam setup on these things is an utterly boneheaded design.

Last edited by Cezar; 10-06-2020 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 10-07-2020, 06:29 PM #17
sammmm sammmm is offline
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Originally Posted by Cezar View Post
The XREAS system is REALLY GOOD [for a truck suspension] so I have to compare to that. It's about 90% as good as XREAS, with the one deficiency being added body roll / movement, which might also be a factor from the lift. In the Eibach's defense, the suspension feels WAY more stout, like you can just roll over anything in your path. I would buy again. Build quality was solid.

I did the install myself, along with new tie-rod ends, top hats, and upper / lower control arms. And a ton of other things -- I ended up taking about a month to just rehab the car in general as I am inheriting it from the wife. Overall I found the car a joy to work on with only some minor complaints about clearance for bolt access.
Cheers. Were the tie-rod ends, control arms, etc. needed to replace to accommodate the new suspension or just something you felt like doing?
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Old 10-07-2020, 07:17 PM #18
Cezar Cezar is offline
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Originally Posted by sammmm View Post
Cheers. Were the tie-rod ends, control arms, etc. needed to replace to accommodate the new suspension or just something you felt like doing?
Something I felt like doing. Actually I found most of the bushings coming off the truck to be in pretty decent shape so I probably overdid a lot of things. I still have a gaggle of parts I might never install just because it drives fine as is.
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Old 10-08-2020, 11:07 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cezar View Post
The XREAS system is REALLY GOOD [for a truck suspension] so I have to compare to that. It's about 90% as good as XREAS, with the one deficiency being added body roll / movement, which might also be a factor from the lift. In the Eibach's defense, the suspension feels WAY more stout, like you can just roll over anything in your path. I would buy again. Build quality was solid.



I did the install myself, along with new tie-rod ends, top hats, and upper / lower control arms. And a ton of other things -- I ended up taking about a month to just rehab the car in general as I am inheriting it from the wife. Overall I found the car a joy to work on with only some minor complaints about clearance for bolt access.
I have to do UCA's, LCA's, Tie rods and Shocks this next week. Was it all pretty straight forward? Just need a basic set of wrenches from what I'm understanding.

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2006 SR5 V8
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Old 10-08-2020, 05:10 PM #20
Cezar Cezar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrothyLlama View Post
I have to do UCA's, LCA's, Tie rods and Shocks this next week. Was it all pretty straight forward? Just need a basic set of wrenches from what I'm understanding.

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Nothing too bothersome, but I HIGHLY recommend buying a Gearwrench set before starting. I don't have one but I will certainly buy one next time around. If nothing else at least buy a 14mm Gearwrench for the top nuts.

All in all though it was pretty straightforward. I found myself using my hand sledge a LOT so definitely pick up one if you don't already have one.
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Old 10-10-2020, 09:16 PM #21
PC1978 PC1978 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrothyLlama View Post
I have to do UCA's, LCA's, Tie rods and Shocks this next week. Was it all pretty straight forward? Just need a basic set of wrenches from what I'm understanding.

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Do you have rust?
If so you might run into a few hiccups that will add some time and frustration.
I recently did front/rear shocks, outer tie rods, sway bar links and wheel hubs (had a bad bearing).
I have a lot of rust (originally a PA car) and definitely wasn’t close to as easy as it should have been.
If you do, definitely hit everything you need to remove with penetrating lubricant the day before.
And best to have anti-seize on hand for all re-installs, in case there’s a next time.

I was able to get the rusted bolts/nuts with a breaker bar and electric impact (double wrenched the hard to get nuts on top mounts and ratcheting Wrench once they broke loose).
With the exception of the sway bar links.
But since I was replacing them, I ground them off.

You do need to detach the front sway bar for removal/installation of the front shocks.
So will need a pair of locking pliers to grip one side of the sway bar link while removing the nut.
Depending on the design of the link, may want a small nose plier so that you do not destroy the rubber boot while removing.

Most of my frustrations came from rust on shock mounts seizing them in place.

Good resources if you haven’t already seen them:
How to Replace Front Strut 03-09 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 03-09 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
How to Replace Front Upper Control Arm 03-09 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
How to Replace Inner Tie Rod Ends 03-09 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
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