09-16-2020, 10:31 AM
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#31
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Western NC
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Western NC
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You guys up North are more dedicated than I would be with this rust issue. I see surface rust and I am ready to run. These pictures make me cringe that Toyota won't address this issue. As reliable as the 4R drivetrain is, it's a shame the frame sends so many Toyota trucks and SUV's to the junkyard before their realistic end of life is reached.
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09-16-2020, 03:15 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport2004
Maybe someone will come along and talk me off the ledge...LOL
Lower mileage Gen 5's seem to be in the 20K+ range...but I don't want a Gen 5!
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That’s my problem. I don’t like the gen 5’s, and they don’t have the v8, which I want. The rest of my rig is way too nice not to fix this issue so as much as it sucks to deal with I have no choice. It’s either fix and keep it for many more years with no payment, or trade it in and get killed in value because of the frame. No choice for me...
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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09-16-2020, 03:18 PM
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#33
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Location: MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67
I bought an undercoating gun with a wand off Amazon recently, haven't tried it yet.
Dang, I moved that AC drain hose a month ago and didn't see any corrosion from it. Odd how these things seem to rust differently car to car. That one looks like a pain to repair.
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Yes, for sure! I suspect that drain did all of the same age to the passenger side based off what it did there. Once water and salt gets inside, as you know, there really is nowhere to go other than the lowest points to work their way out.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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09-16-2020, 03:35 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 623
Real Name: James
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
The rest of my rig is way too nice not to fix this issue so as much as it sucks to deal with I have no choice.
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Well, I do have a choice, start spending a lot of money hoping I can get the rust under control, or get something else and prevent as much damage as I can before it get's bad. If that is possible, then investment is in no huge danger of being completely lost (unless I get really un lucky and the vehicle is totalled for some reason).
Any other insight greatly appreciated...
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Regards, sport2004
Gotta Start Somewhere 2004, V6 Sport 4WD (French Speaking), All LED interior lights, LED reverse lights, Weathertech-laser cut floor mats up front, 2nd row Weathertech-laser cut floor mats , OEM Extreme cargo liner, 4LO aint hap'nin
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09-16-2020, 04:41 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,190
Real Name: Mike
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
Yes, for sure! I suspect that drain did all of the same age to the passenger side based off what it did there. Once water and salt gets inside, as you know, there really is nowhere to go other than the lowest points to work their way out.
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Mine's an 03 and that spot is fine. My front cross piece is also intact but scaly. My rust holes were elsewhere. Hopefully I can stop the madness with oil treatments.
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Mike
03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
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09-16-2020, 06:19 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67
Mine's an 03 and that spot is fine. My front cross piece is also intact but scaly. My rust holes were elsewhere. Hopefully I can stop the madness with oil treatments.
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Interesting. Well, at the very least be sure to lengthen and relocate where that hose exits to get it off the frame either way.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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09-16-2020, 06:24 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport2004
Well, I do have a choice, start spending a lot of money hoping I can get the rust under control, or get something else and prevent as much damage as I can before it get's bad. If that is possible, then investment is in no huge danger of being completely lost (unless I get really un lucky and the vehicle is totalled for some reason).
Any other insight greatly appreciated...
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Sounds like a plan as long as you don’t have actual holes. If you do, then the only option (to either keep it, or preserve resale) is to cut out the bad areas and repair them because you really can’t stop it otherwise. It’s like cancer... you have to remove all of the “tumor” or it WILL come back/spread.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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09-17-2020, 04:55 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
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Real Name: Mike
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
Interesting. Well, at the very least be sure to lengthen and relocate where that hose exits to get it off the frame either way.
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Yep, relocated it a few weeks ago.
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Mike
03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
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09-17-2020, 07:33 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Calgary
Posts: 2
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Frame rust - should I buy this 4Runner? 03 Ltd V8
Hi there!
First post...apologies for breaking any rules!
Hoping for some help/advice. Looking at this 03 Limited V8 with 180,000 km, but worried about frame rust. It looks to be surface rust to me, but I haven't seen the vehicle yet so can't say for sure.
Dealer is asking 15k CAD, which is pretty steep but think I can get them down.
What do you guys think? Should I go for it or walk?
Thanks in advance!
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09-18-2020, 06:55 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Northern CT
Posts: 53
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Location: Northern CT
Posts: 53
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I hate to lose my 2005 4runner, but a buddy of mine who welds and rebuilds trucks from top to bottom said it would be very expensive to get my rust taken care of. I needed to replace the rear brake lines and the gas tank strap anyway, which I was going to do, but I don't weld, so I'd have to find someone. This is on the rear drivers side frame near the gas tank and rear wheel.
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09-18-2020, 03:43 PM
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#41
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
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Real Name: Mike
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Join Date: Dec 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steevie
Hi there!
First post...apologies for breaking any rules!
Hoping for some help/advice. Looking at this 03 Limited V8 with 180,000 km, but worried about frame rust. It looks to be surface rust to me, but I haven't seen the vehicle yet so can't say for sure.
Dealer is asking 15k CAD, which is pretty steep but think I can get them down.
What do you guys think? Should I go for it or walk?
Thanks in advance!
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Hard to say without being able to poke around. It looks decent from the pics, especially the front cross bar where the tow points are. That is a common area to rust as is under the AC drain and the bottom horizontal part of the frame under the center. The front skid plates are missing I see, mine turned to a wet cracker material as did the cover for my fuel tank. Yours looks pretty decent but the tank straps should be checked and also the brake lines in the center section of the car. If you can have a 3rd party check it.
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03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
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09-18-2020, 06:06 PM
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#42
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvto2
I hate to lose my 2005 4runner, but a buddy of mine who welds and rebuilds trucks from top to bottom said it would be very expensive to get my rust taken care of. I needed to replace the rear brake lines and the gas tank strap anyway, which I was going to do, but I don't weld, so I'd have to find someone. This is on the rear drivers side frame near the gas tank and rear wheel.
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If you want to fix it, there are replacement sections for our frames available from autorust.com, and I see your are in CT, so if you can’t do it, check with them, they are right in RI. I recently bought one of their Safety-Cap repair sections for my passenger side to evaluate before buying more. I picked the worst area on mine which is the section between the trans crossmember, and the one further back. It’s around 21” long, and very heavy, and well constructed. I will be buying more from them! I eventually need to do my driver's side too, but it’s not nearly as bad as yours, so I may do that side next year because I will need to drop the tank and move all of the lines, so that side is really tough to do, passenger side, not so much.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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09-18-2020, 07:14 PM
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#43
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Calgary
Posts: 2
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Location: Calgary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67
Hard to say without being able to poke around. It looks decent from the pics, especially the front cross bar where the tow points are. That is a common area to rust as is under the AC drain and the bottom horizontal part of the frame under the center. The front skid plates are missing I see, mine turned to a wet cracker material as did the cover for my fuel tank. Yours looks pretty decent but the tank straps should be checked and also the brake lines in the center section of the car. If you can have a 3rd party check it.
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Okay sweet. Thanks for the response! That's all great information.
It appears that the front, passenger-side tow point has partially rusted through (but it's hard to say from looking at the photo). Would you agree? Regardless, I definitely want to get a better look around this area of the frame as I know it is a potential trouble spot for rust.
The vehicle is for sale through a Toyota dealership, and is still waiting on an inspection. I figure I can trust the inspection from them, or would you recommend taking it to a 3rd party as well?
As usual, the dealership is being pushy and trying to get me to put a deposit down ASAP. I want to see the inspection results first though...
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09-19-2020, 09:04 AM
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#44
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Northern CT
Posts: 53
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Northern CT
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
If you want to fix it, there are replacement sections for our frames available from autorust.com, and I see your are in CT, so if you can’t do it, check with them, they are right in RI. I recently bought one of their Safety-Cap repair sections for my passenger side to evaluate before buying more. I picked the worst area on mine which is the section between the trans crossmember, and the one further back. It’s around 21” long, and very heavy, and well constructed. I will be buying more from them! I eventually need to do my driver's side too, but it’s not nearly as bad as yours, so I may do that side next year because I will need to drop the tank and move all of the lines, so that side is really tough to do, passenger side, not so much.
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That's very helpful. Thanks much.
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09-20-2020, 12:02 AM
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#45
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Ontario
Posts: 57
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Ontario
Posts: 57
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If we want new frames it'll be because we band together and get it done, that's what forums are for. Is it not the exact same frame as the tacomas that break in half and they've been replacing for years??
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